Tag: Difficulty 3

Female, Full Entry

1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 1

deveretallier
Title1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 1
Entry #GGB2021.067
Alternate Names V neck gown, gown
Year1450
Time range1450-1500
EraLate Medieval
GenderFemale
regionNorthern Europe
Countries/culturesFrance
MakerJehanne Bening
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

“A” shaped dress with “V” shaped neckline, fitted in the torso and spreading widely, often with train from the waist.  Wide belt at waist.  Worn over fitted kirtle.

Description:

One of the garments that there are many image examples for as this is a time of many surviving artworks.  A style of dress seen in many Flemish paintings that show a common set of features including fitted torso with deeply plunging neckline and collar with contrasting fabric or fur lining. The deep neckline displayed an under placket or partlet or kirtle, some displayed without.  Sleeves often shown with lined cuffs that are rolled back on the sleeve.  Most show no seam at waist or a wide belt covering any such seam.  More examples of images showing the waist seam appear closer to 1500CE. Many are displayed as being lined

Under layers would commonly include a shift, slip or some form of underdress, covered by a fitted kirtle and then covered by the gown. 

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate. 

This is a more simple form of the dress and worn on a warmer day.  The under layers are simplified and the dress is not as full. Made out of brocaded cotton fabric with a black velvet collar and the red placket exposed by the neckline.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Gown –
      • wools,
      • finely woven wools,
      • brocaded or patterned cloths.  Rich textiles,
      • collars featuring velvets and furs. 
      • Fur trim
    • Kirtle –
      • wool
      • linen
    • Underclothes
      • linen
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Gown
      • Some cottons
      • linens
      • Linen blends wool blends
      • brocades
      • some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns. 
    • Kirtle
      • Linen and linen blends
      • some cottons to lighten the under layers
    • Underclothes
      • Linen
      • Linen blends
      • cottons
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Under layers – shift/slip or some form of underdress
  • gown. 

  • fitted kirtle

Accessories

  • Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate. 
  • This is the time of the Henin hat that becomes the stereotypical ‘princess’ hat, various low shoes or slippers, pouches or purses.

Source/Links

http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-gown.html

https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/06/02/how-to-make-a-kirtle-and-a-burgundian-gown/

https://dawnsdressdiary.wordpress.com/2018/01/25/burgundian-v-neck-gown-research/

Version2
date3/2/2021
Source of Period PicThe Whore of Babylon. 1470. Pierpont Morgan MS M.68. Saint Catherine converting the Scholars. Walters Art Museum 37.2487.
Model Jehanne Bening
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 2

deveretallier
Title1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 2
Entry #GGB2021.068
Alternate Names V neck gown, gown
Year1450
Time range1450-1500
EraLate Medieval
GenderFemale
regionNorthern Europe
Countries/culturesFrance
MakerVincent de Vere
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

“A” shaped dress with “V” shaped neckline, fitted in the torso and spreading widely, often with train from the waist.  Wide belt at waist.  Worn over fitted kirtle.

Additional Images of the completed garment:

Description:

One of the garments that there are many image examples for as this is a time of many surviving artworks.  A style of dress seen in many Flemish paintings that show a common set of features including fitted torso with deeply plunging neckline and collar with contrasting fabric or fur lining. The deep neckline displayed an under placket or partlet or kirtle, some displayed without.  Sleeves often shown with lined cuffs that are rolled back on the sleeve.  Most show no seam at waist or a wide belt covering any such seam.  More examples of images showing the waist seam appear closer to 1500CE. Many are displayed as being lined

Under layers would commonly include a shift, slip or some form of underdress, covered by a fitted kirtle and then covered by the gown. 

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate. 

This dress is poly cotton blend brocade with cotton velvet collar and cuffs, red linen kirtle, white linen shift. A yellow silk placket covers most of the red kirtle at the plunging neckline

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Gown –
      • wools,
      • finely woven wools,
      • brocaded or patterned cloths.  Rich textiles,
      • collars featuring velvets and furs. 
      • Fur trim
    • Kirtle –
      • wool
      • linen
    • Underclothes
      • linen
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Gown
      • Some cottons
      • linens
      • Linen blends wool blends
      • brocades
      • some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns. 
    • Kirtle
      • Linen and linen blends
      • some cottons to lighten the under layers
    • Underclothes
      • Linen
      • Linen blends
      • cottons
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Under layers – shift/slip or some form of underdress
  • gown. 

  • fitted kirtle

Accessories

  • Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate. 
  • This is the time of the Henin hat that becomes the stereotypical ‘princess’ hat, various low shoes or slippers, pouches or purses.

Source/Links

http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-gown.html

https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/06/02/how-to-make-a-kirtle-and-a-burgundian-gown/

https://dawnsdressdiary.wordpress.com/2018/01/25/burgundian-v-neck-gown-research/

Version2
date3/2/2021
Source of Period PicThe Whore of Babylon. 1470. Pierpont Morgan MS M.68. Saint Catherine converting the Scholars. Walters Art Museum 37.2487.
ModelKristen Wereszynski
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1490 CE German Female Housebook Dress

deveretallier
Title1490 CE German Female Housebook Dress
Entry #GGB2021.071
Alternate Names 
Year1490
Time range1480-1500
EraLate medieval
GenderFemale
regionCentral europe
Countries/culturesGermany
MakerAmira bint Timurhan
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

Dress with front and back pleated section. Most often portrayed in the a book of engravings by the Master of the Housebook.

Description:

This dress is commonly known as a housebook dress because it was frequently portrayed in a book of engravings called the Housebook. It is a dress with pleated inset in both front and back with fall into the fullness of the skirt. The haub is a pleated rectangle of fabric (I use linen) which is wound about the head to produce is shape. The tail of the haub can be tucked back into it, wound around your neck and simply left to hang.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Gown – wools, finely woven wools, brocaded or patterned cloths.  Rich textiles, collars featuring velvets and furs.  Fur trim
    • Kirtle – wools lined in linen
    • Underclothes – Linen
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Gown – Some cottons, linens, Linen blends wool blends, brocades, some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns. 
    • Kirtle – Linen and linen blends, some cottons to lighten the under layers
    • Underclothes – Linen, linen blends, cottons
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Haube
  • chemise
  • hosen

  • pointed shoes
  • housebook dress

Accessories

  • thin leather belt
  • mantle (short cloak)
  • schaube (heavy long coat)
  • purse
  • apron

Source/Links

http://myra.hem.nu/costume/images/HousebookMaster/LL%28FiledtKoko1985%29/MH.StCatherine%28LLcat47%29.jpg

http://craftyagatha.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/pleat-detail3.png (detail of back pleats) http://employees.oneonta.edu/farberas/arth/Images/ARTH_214images/prints/housebook_aristotle_and_phyllis.jpg

http://myra.hem.nu/costume/Documentation/Documentation.htm

Version2
date3/2/2021
Source of Period Pichttps://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Durer,_Portrait_of_a_Young_F%C3%BCrleger_with_Her_Hair_Done_Up.jpg
ModelAmira bint Timurhan
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1495 CE Venetian (Italian) Gown

deveretallier
Title1495 CE Venetian (Italian) Gown
Entry #GGB2021.072
Alternate Names Italian Gown
Year1495
Time range1495
EraLate medieval/Italian Renaissance
GenderFemale
regionSouthern Europe
Countries/cultures Italy, Venice
MakerKristine nic Tallier and Vincent De Vere
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImages

Intro:

A gown consisting of shift, under dress, over gown and pinned on sleeves based on image from Vittore Carpaccio, 1495: Meeting of the Betrothed Couple

Description:

Basic linen shift base layer

Under dress with decorative front panel of a gold brocaded material

Blue velvet over dress with short sleeves revealing a false later of white linen below

Pinned on red silk sleeves in slits revealing a white linen false sleeve below.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Basic linen shift base layer
  • Under dress with decorative front panel of a gold brocaded material

  • Blue velvet over dress with short sleeves revealing a false later of white linen below
  • Pinned on red silk sleeves in slits revealing a white linen false sleeve below.

Accessories

Source/Links

Version2
date3/6/2021
Source of Period PicVenice, Republic of VeniceVittore Carpaccio, 1495: Meeting of the Betrothed Couple
Model 
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Basic Entry, Female

1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 3

deveretallier
Title1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 3
Entry #GGB2021.069
Alternate Names V neck gown, gown
Year1450
Time range1450-1500
EraLate Medieval
GenderFemale
regionNorthern Europe
Countries/culturesFrance
Maker
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

“A” shaped dress with “V” shaped neckline, fitted in the torso and spreading widely, often with train from the waist.  Wide belt at waist.  Worn over fitted kirtle.

Description:

One of the garments that there are many image examples for as this is a time of many surviving artworks.  A style of dress seen in many Flemish paintings that show a common set of features including fitted torso with deeply plunging neckline and collar with contrasting fabric or fur lining. The deep neckline displayed an under placket or partlet or kirtle, some displayed without.  Sleeves often shown with lined cuffs that are rolled back on the sleeve.  Most show no seam at waist or a wide belt covering any such seam.  More examples of images showing the waist seam appear closer to 1500CE. Many are displayed as being lined

Under layers would commonly include a shift, slip or some form of underdress, covered by a fitted kirtle and then covered by the gown. 

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate. 

This dress is poly cotton blend brocade with cotton velvet collar and cuffs, red linen kirtle, white linen shift. A yellow silk placket covers most of the red kirtle at the plunging neckline

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Gown –
      • wools,
      • finely woven wools,
      • brocaded or patterned cloths.  Rich textiles,
      • collars featuring velvets and furs. 
      • Fur trim
    • Kirtle –
      • wool
      • linen
    • Underclothes
      • linen
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Gown
      • Some cottons
      • linens
      • Linen blends wool blends
      • brocades
      • some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns. 
    • Kirtle
      • Linen and linen blends
      • some cottons to lighten the under layers
    • Underclothes
      • Linen
      • Linen blends
      • cottons
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Under layers – shift/slip or some form of underdress
  • gown. 

  • fitted kirtle

Accessories

  • Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate. 
  • This is the time of the Henin hat that becomes the stereotypical ‘princess’ hat, various low shoes or slippers, pouches or purses.

Source/Links

http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-gown.html

https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/06/02/how-to-make-a-kirtle-and-a-burgundian-gown/

https://dawnsdressdiary.wordpress.com/2018/01/25/burgundian-v-neck-gown-research/

Version2
date3/2/2021
Source of Period PicThe Whore of Babylon. 1470. Pierpont Morgan MS M.68. Saint Catherine converting the Scholars. Walters Art Museum 37.2487.
ModelKristen Wereszynski
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1550 CE English Female Henrician Gown 1

deveretallier
Title1550 CE English Female Henrician Gown 1
Entry #GGB2021.093
Alternate Names Tudor Gown
Year1550
Time range1530-1575 CE
EraHenrician
GenderFemale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesEnglish
MakerJacquette de Brackeleire
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

Hourglass Shaped Gown with Large Sleeves & Detachable Under Sleeves

Description:

Main Body:

 This style of dress is an evolutionary phase within the 16th century that is influenced by Spanish and German styles.  The silhouette has an hourglass shape: the bodice narrowed to a small waistline and the skirt gradually expanding into an inverted cone shape. Many of these dresses were floor length and without a train. 

To achieve the cone shaped appearance required a supportive layer called the Spanish farthingale which was worn over the chemise. A pair of bodies was worn with the farthingale and over the chemise.  The front of the overdress would have an inverted V opening and the neckline was square with highly decorative jewels or trim on the edging.  The sleeves were narrowed at the shoulder and expanded outward (normally a wide square cuff) that was turned back on itself.  This cuff could be made of fur or brocade.  A detachable, false sleeve was worn underneath and was decorated with panes and slashes through which the chemise could be seen or pulled through.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Linen, Cotton, Wool, Silk, Brocade, Jacquard, Satin, and Taffeta*
    • *Some of the materials refer to weave structure and would have been made from natural fibers.
  • Additional:
    • Whalebone, cane, or steel for farthingale. Leather for shoes.

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Some Polyester/cotton blended brocade, jacquard, satin, and taffeta.
    • linen blends and cottons for under layers
  • Additional:
    • Plastic, zip ties, and metal for boning.

Ensemble Components

  • Chemise: undermost garment that is cut full and gathered into a round or square neckline; with full, gathered sleeves and ruffled cuff.
  • Spanish Farthingale: a skirt separate or sewn to petticoat with hoops that gradient in size from the waist to floor.  Constructed with whalebone, cane, or steel hoops.
  • Pair of Bodies: corset or under bodice that has stays (boning) laced together at the front, back, or both.
  • Petticoat: an underskirt that is made with elaborate fabric which can be seen in the front opening of overdress.
  • Overdress/Bodice: narrowed, stiff, and flat with an elongated V that dips at the natural waist.
  • Overdress/Skirt: combined with the bodice; very full and gathered made of similar fabric to overdress bodice.
  • Head wear: Coif, French Hood, Square Hood
  • Shoes:  Fabric or leather square-toe.

Accessories

  • Needlepoint/bobbin lace
  • Embroidery/Blackwork
  • jewels/trim
  • jeweled belt
  • brooches
  • purses suspended from belt
  • squared or feather fans.

Source/Links

Tortora, P. (2010). Survey of Historic Costume. New York: Fairchild Books.

https://adamselindisdress.blog/tag/henrician-dress/

Version2
date3/2/2021
Source of Period Pichttps://www.wga.hu/html_m/h/holbein/hans_y/1535h/02seymou.html
ModelJacquette de Brackeleire
PhotographerAlan Smith of Darkdale
  

Female, Full Entry

1565 English Elizabethan Gown 1

deveretallier
Title1565 English Elizabethan Gown 1
Entry #GGB2021.096
Alternate Names 
Year1565
Time range1550-1600
EraElizabethan
GenderFemale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesEngland
MakerHelena of Tor
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

The Elizabethan Gown is a decorated bodice and skirt worn over a chemise, corset and farthingale

Description:

This gown was inspired by Steven Van Der Meulen of Elizabeth the First in The Hampden Portrait painted in 1563 and by a portrait of Mary Queen of Scots by an unknown artist in 1565 during her brief rule in Scotland.   The bodice is steel boned and laced on the sides. The lacing should be angling from the armpit to the middle of the back hip.  I did not incorporate that into this pattern though. 

   The skirt is an 8 paneled box pleated skirt with a button closure. To be accurate though the skirt should be cartridge pleated or knife pleated and hooked in the bodice.

This example was of a more basic construction for use during SCA events that may otherwise damage the more intricate dresses.  

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Silk, Satin, Velvet, taffeta
  • Ornamentation:
    • Bobbin Lace
    • Jewels
    • Embroidery

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Heavy brocades, like upholstery fabrics, work very well to give a rich look. 
    • Fancy bedspreads also work well for inserts. 
  • Ornamentation:
    • Buttons work well as jewels. 
    • Lace curtains sometimes look enough like bobbin lace to use.   

Ensemble Components

  • Chemise (high necked or low necked)
  • stockings
  • corset
  • underskirt

  • outer skirt
  • bodice
  • shoes

Accessories

  • snood
  • hat
  • strings of pearls or other jewels around the neck
  • choker necklace
  • rings
  • ear rings
  • gloves
  • girdle belt
  • mirror hanging from the belt
  • decorative pouch hanging from the belt

Source/Links

Elizabeth of Valios by Alonso Sanchez Coello 1564

Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlocked by Janet Arnold

Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlocked  by Janet Arnold

1560 Elisabeth De Valois by Alonso Sanchez Coello…Grand Ladies

Version3
date3/7/2021
Source of Period Pic1560 Elisabeth De Valois by Alonso Sanchez Coello…
ModelHelena of Tor 031513-04
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Basic Entry, Female, Full Entry

1565 English Elizabethan Gown 2

deveretallier
Title1565 English Elizabethan Gown 2
Entry #GGB2021.097
Alternate Names 
Year1565
Time range1550-1600
EraElizabethan
GenderFemale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesEngland
MakerHelena of Tor
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

The Elizabethan Gown is a decorated bodice and skirt worn over a chemise, corset and farthingale

Description:

This gown was inspired by Steven Van Der Meulen of Elizabeth the First in The Hampden Portrait painted in 1563 and by a portrait of Mary Queen of Scots by an unknown artist in 1565 during her brief rule in Scotland.   The bodice is steel boned and laced on the sides. The lacing should be angling from the armpit to the middle of the back hip.  I did not incorporate that into this pattern though. 

   The skirt is an 8 paneled box pleated skirt with a button closure. To be accurate though the skirt should be cartridge pleated or knife pleated and hooked in the bodice. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Silk, Satin, Velvet, taffeta
  • Ornamentation:
    • Bobbin Lace
    • Jewels
    • Embroidery

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Heavy brocades, like upholstery fabrics, work very well to give a rich look. 
    • Fancy bedspreads also work well for inserts. 
  • Ornamentation:
    • Buttons work well as jewels. 
    • Lace curtains sometimes look enough like bobbin lace to use.   

Ensemble Components

  • Chemise (high necked or low necked)
  • stockings
  • corset
  • underskirt

  • outer skirt
  • bodice
  • shoes

Accessories

  • snood
  • hat
  • strings of pearls or other jewels around the neck
  • choker necklace
  • rings
  • ear rings
  • gloves
  • girdle belt
  • mirror hanging from the belt
  • decorative pouch hanging from the belt

Source/Links

Elizabeth of Valios by Alonso Sanchez Coello 1564

Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlocked by Janet Arnold

Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlocked  by Janet Arnold

1560 Elisabeth De Valois by Alonso Sanchez Coello…Grand Ladies

Version2
date3/7/2021
Source of Period Pic1560 Elisabeth De Valois by Alonso Sanchez Coello…
ModelHelena of Tor 031513-04
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Basic Entry, Female, Full Entry

1550 CE English Female Henrician Gown 2

deveretallier
Title1550 CE English Female Henrician Gown 2
Entry #GGB2021.094
Alternate Names 
Year1550
Time range1530-1575 CE
EraHenrician
GenderFemale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesEnglish
MakerJayme Jones
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

Hourglass Shaped Gown with Large Sleeves & Detachable Under Sleeves

Description:

This style of dress is an evolutionary phase within the 16th century that is influenced by Spanish and German styles.  The silhouette has an hourglass shape: the bodice narrowed to a small waistline and the skirt gradually expanding into an inverted cone shape. Many of these dresses were floor length and without a train. 

To achieve the cone shaped appearance required a supportive layer called the Spanish farthingale which was worn over the chemise. A pair of bodies was worn with the farthingale and over the chemise.  The front of the overdress would have an inverted V opening and the neckline was square with highly decorative jewels or trim on the edging.  The sleeves were narrowed at the shoulder and expanded outward (normally a wide square cuff) that was turned back on itself.  This cuff could be made of fur or brocade.  A detachable, false sleeve was worn underneath and was decorated with panes and slashes through which the chemise could be seen or pulled through.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Linen, Cotton, Wool, Silk, Brocade, Jacquard, Satin, and Taffeta*
    • *Some of the materials refer to weave structure and would have been made from natural fibers.
  • Additional:
    • Whalebone, cane, or steel for farthingale. Leather for shoes.

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Some Polyester/cotton blended brocade, jacquard, satin, and taffeta.
    • linen blends and cottons for under layers
  • Ornamentation:
    • Plastic, zip ties, and metal for boning.

Ensemble Components

  • Chemise: undermost garment that is cut full and gathered into a round or square neckline; with full, gathered sleeves and ruffled cuff.
  • Spanish Farthingale: a skirt separate or sewn to petticoat with hoops that gradient in size from the waist to floor.  Constructed with whalebone, cane, or steel hoops.
  • Pair of Bodies: corset or under bodice that has stays (boning) laced together at the front, back, or both.
  • Petticoat: an underskirt that is made with elaborate fabric which can be seen in the front opening of overdress.
  • Overdress/Bodice: narrowed, stiff, and flat with an elongated V that dips at the natural waist.
  • Overdress/Skirt: combined with the bodice; very full and gathered made of similar fabric to overdress bodice.
  • Head wear: Coif, French Hood, Square Hood
  • Shoes:  Fabric or leather square-toe.

Accessories

  • Needlepoint/bobbin lace
  • Embroidery/Blackwork
  • jewels/trim
  • jeweled belt
  • brooches
  • purses suspended from belt
  • squared or feather fans.

Source/Links

Tortora, P. (2010). Survey of Historic Costume. New York: Fairchild Books.

https://adamselindisdress.blog/tag/henrician-dress/

Version2
date3/2/2021
Source of Period Pichttps://www.wga.hu/html_m/h/holbein/hans_y/1535h/02seymou.html
ModelJayme Jones 020213-06
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Basic Entry, Female

1500 CE Female English Gown

deveretallier
Title1500 CE Female English Gown
Entry #GGB2021.073
Alternate Names gown
Year1500
Time range1500
EraLate Medieval
GenderFemale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesEngland
MakerMary Shaw
Difficulty3
ConfidenceNo information provided

Intro:

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version2
date3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic 
ModelMary Shaw 020213-12
PhotographerVincent De Vere