northern Europe – SCA Iowa Garb Guide

Braies, Long 2 Piece

January 29, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Braies, Long 2 Piece
Entry #	GGC2021.015
Alternate Names	Braies, underwear, Breeches
Year	Antiquity-end of period
Time range	Antiquity-end of period
Era	Antiquity, Bronze age, Iron Age, early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Attempt to replicate one of the simple versions of commonly seen undergarments.

Description:

One of the many variations of the underwear seen in imagery from antiquity through to the end of the SCA period. A common and personal garment like underwear is less likely to survive or be well represented in documentation. There are many works of art that do represent people in undergarments and so the use of the garments can be documented and construction can be inferred. Undergarments would nearly be universally constructed from linen.

Of the different styles of braies they vary in length, in how they are held up or how much fabric is used in their construction (ie, how baggy they are). Use of braies is often one of the later stages of refinement for SCA participants as they are rarely seen. Wearing Braies can take some getting used to as they tend to have more fabric bunched up then we are modernly use to.

This is an attempt to replicate one of the very basic ‘boxer short’ style braies. It is made from 2 pieces for either side and sewn together with a single center seam. The waistline is folded over to allow for a drawstring.

The example is made out of linen and using a shoestring for the drawstring.

Many illustrations of people from all levels of society survive showing people wearing undergarments but this example gives us insight to the construction technique. The historical use of braies by women is assumed by us and use by members of the SCA is common.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Underwear such as braies are seen through many time periods and cultures and so can be associated with many different ensembles

Accessories

Source/Links

Instructions for constructing braies like this are covered in books like Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, a very good book worth buying

source image Public Domain

http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/maciejowski_images_18.htm

Version	1
date	12/25/2021
Source of Period Pic	Maciejowski bible
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Braies, Simple Short 3 Piece

January 29, 2021January 2, 2022 vincentdevere

Title	Braies, Simple Short 3 Piece
Entry #	GGC2021.012
Alternate Names	Braies, underwear, Breeches
Year	Antiquity-end of period
Time range	Antiquity-end of period
Era	Antiquity, Bronze age, Iron Age, early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Attempt to replicate one of the simple versions of commonly seen undergarments.

Description:

Many illustrations of people from all levels of society survive showing people wearing

This is an attempt to replicate one of the very basic ‘boxer short’ style braies. It is made from 3 pieces, either leg is sewn up the leg and sewn together with a central panel between either side. The waistline is folded over to allow for a drawstring.

The example is made out of linen and using a shoestring for the drawstring.

The historical use of braies by women is assumed by us and use by members of the SCA is common.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Underwear such as braies are seen through many time periods and cultures and so can be associated with many different ensembles

Accessories

Source/Links

Instructions for constructing braies like this are covered in books like Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, a very good book worth buying

source image Public Domain

A loincloth in 1412 Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry

Version	1
date	12/25/2021
Source of Period Pic	A loincloth in 1412 Très Riches Heuresdu Duc de Berry
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Braies, Short 5 Piece

January 29, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Braies, Short 5 Piece
Entry #	GGC2021.013
Alternate Names	Braies, underwear, Breeches
Year	Antiquity-end of period
Time range	Antiquity-end of period
Era	Antiquity, Bronze age, Iron Age, early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Attempt to replicate one of the simple versions of commonly seen undergarments.

Description:

Many illustrations of people from all levels of society survive showing people wearing

This is an attempt to replicate one of the very basic ‘boxer short’ style braies. It is made from 5 pieces, either leg is sewn up the leg and sewn together with a central panel made from a front and back panel as well as bottom gusset. The waistline is folded over to allow for a drawstring.

The example is made out of linen and using a shoestring for the drawstring.

The historical use of braies by women is assumed by us and use by members of the SCA is common.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Underwear such as braies are seen through many time periods and cultures and so can be associated with many different ensembles

Accessories

Source/Links

Instructions for constructing braies like this are covered in books like Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, a very good book worth buying

source image Public Domain

A loincloth in 1412 Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry

Version	1
date	12/25/2021
Source of Period Pic	A loincloth in 1412 Très Riches Heuresdu Duc de Berry
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Pants, Basic 2 Piece

January 29, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	SCA Pants, Basic 2 Piece
Entry #	GGC2021.002
Alternate Names	Trews, PJ pants,
Year	Antiquity-end of period
Time range	Antiquity-end of period
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	all
Countries/cultures	all
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Image examples/

Intro:

A tunic and an outer layer coat associated with Norse cultures. The front panels cross over each Simplified version of pants worn in many cultures and times periods from antiquity to the end of the SCA period

Description:

Wool coat lined with linen decorated with a tablet woven band. The coat is shown over a

One of the many variations of the pants seen in imagery from antiquity through to the end of the SCA period. There are many works of art that do represent people in a variety of pants. The garments can be documented and construction can be inferred in a variety of forms. Many examples of surviving extant fragments were of wool.

Variations in pants include how baggy the garments are, how long they are, how wide the waistline is and how the waist is cinched closed.

This example is for a basic SCA ‘pajama pant’ constructed from a medium cotton material with a drawstring closure for the waist. The pants are made in 2 parts with the seams sewn up the inside of either leg and then the legs are sewn together with one crotch seam. The top of the pants are folded over to form the channel for the drawstring. This version may be slightly tighter than how some people construct them.

Patterns are easily generated by laying an example of a normal pajama pants that fit the person on a folded pieces of paper.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Wool blends
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Greek vase showing Amazon wearing trousers Marie-Lan Nguyen (2007)

British Museum, CC BY 2.5 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.5>, via Wikimedia Commons

Version	1
date	12/25/2021
Source of Period Pic	British Museum, Amazon wearing trousers
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Pants, Basic 2 Piece with feet

January 29, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Pants, Basic 2 Piece with feet
Entry #	GGC2021.005
Alternate Names	Trews, PJ pants,
Year	Antiquity-end of period
Time range	Antiquity-end of period
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	all
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Theorized Reconstruction

Intro:

Simplified version of pants worn in many cultures and times periods from antiquity to the end of the SCA period

Description:

Variations in pants include how baggy the garments are, how long they are, how wide the waistline is and how the waist is cinched closed.

This example is for ‘pajama pants’ style pants with enclosed feet. Constructed from a medium cotton material with a drawstring closure for the waist. The pants are made in 2 parts with the seams sewn up the inside of either leg and then the legs are sewn together with one crotch seam. The top of the pants are folded over to form the channel for the drawstring. This version may be slightly tighter than how some people construct them.

Enclosing the feet allows for pants like this to be a simplified replacement for hosen, joined hosen or some of the other enclosed pants. Although probably an oversimplification, it is an easily constructed garment and can serve as a placeholder until one learns to ‘drape’ a pattern for hosen. Patterns are easily generated by laying an example of a normal pajama pants that fit the person on a folded pieces of paper. The pants are sewn long and the parts extending over the feet are pinned, resewn and trimmed until they fit. Care must be taken to leave the pants loose enough to pull over the feet.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Wool blends
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Greek vase showing Amazon wearing trousers Marie-Lan Nguyen (2007)

British Museum, CC BY 2.5 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.5>, via Wikimedia Commons

Version	1
date	12/25/2021
Source of Period Pic	British Museum, Amazon wearing trousers
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Braies, Simple Short 2 Piece

January 29, 2021January 2, 2022 vincentdevere

Title	Braies, Simple Short 2 Piece
Entry #	GGC2021.011
Alternate Names	Braies, underwear, Breeches
Year	Antiquity-end of period
Time range	Antiquity-end of period
Era	Antiquity, Bronze age, Iron Age, early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Attempt to replicate one of the simple versions of commonly seen undergarments.

Description:

Of the different styles of braies they vary in length, in how they are held up or how much fabric is used in their construction (ie, how baggy they are). Use of braies is often one of the latter stages of refinement for SCA participants as they are rarely seen. Wearing Braies can take some getting used to as they tend to have more fabric bunched up then we are modernly use to.

The example is made out of linen and using a shoestring for the drawstring.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Underwear such as braies are seen through many time periods and cultures and so can be associated with many different ensembles

Accessories

Source/Links

Instructions for constructing braies like this are covered in books like Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, a very good book worth buying

source image Public Domain

A loincloth in 1412 Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry

Version	1
date	12/25/2021
Source of Period Pic	A loincloth in 1412 Très Riches Heuresdu Duc de Berry
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Braies, Long 4 Piece

January 29, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Braies, Long 4 Piece
Entry #	GGC2021.014
Alternate Names	Braies, underwear, Breeches
Year	Antiquity-end of period
Time range	Antiquity-end of period
Era	Antiquity, Bronze age, Iron Age, early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Attempt to replicate one of the simple versions of commonly seen undergarments.

Description:

This is an attempt to replicate one of the very basic ‘boxer short’ style braies. It is made from 4 pieces, either leg is sewn up the leg and sewn together with a square crotch gusset as well as an attached waist band.

The example is made out of linen and the braies are held up by rolling the waist band over a separate belt or cord tied around the waist..

Many illustrations of people from all levels of society survive showing people wearing undergarments but this example gives us insight to the construction technique.

The historical use of braies by women is assumed by us and use by members of the SCA is common.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Underwear such as braies are seen through many time periods and cultures and so can be associated with many different ensembles

Accessories

Source/Links

Instructions for constructing braies like this are covered in books like Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, a very good book worth buying

source image Public Domain

http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/maciejowski_images_18.htm

Version	1
date	12/25/2021
Source of Period Pic	Maciejowski bible
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Male

Damendorf Trousers 1

January 27, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Damendorf Trousers 1
Entry #	GGC2021.007
Alternate Names	Trews, PJ pants, hose
Year	100-300 CE
Time range	100-300 CE
Era	Iron Age
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Germany, Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Modified example of trousers found in a bog in Germany with a tailored construction and attached feet

Description:

An extant example of trousers found in a bog near Damendorf, Rendsburg Eckerförde, Germany dated from between 100’s and 300’s CE.

This style of pants are more complicated than the regular SCA ‘poofy pants’ that many people start out with. There are some places online where the patterns can be found or even purchased. This pattern has been modified from the extant example by leaving the two triangular gussets connected to the back panel.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Wool blends
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

The Damendorf Man was found with leather shoes, leg wraps and a leather belt. This would also likely go with one or more tunics

Accessories

The Damendorf Man was found with leather shoes, leg wraps and a leather belt

Source/Links

. Archäologisches Landesmuseum Schloss Gottorf in Schleswig. Photo by by Andreas Franzkowiak

Version	1
date	12/25/2021
Source of Period Pic	. Archäologisches Landesmuseum Schloss Gottorf in Schleswig. Photo by by Andreas Franzkowiak
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

600 CE Norse Klappenrock over Tunic

January 22, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	600 CE Norse Klappenrock over Tunic
Entry #	GGB2021.0005
Alternate Names	Klappenrock, warriors coat, Viking coat
Year	600 CE
Time range	600 – 900 CE
Era	Early medieval
Gender	Male
region	Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	Norse, Viking
Maker	Vincent De Vere, Kristine nic Tallieur
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Image examples/ fragmentary evidence

Intro:

A tunic and an outer layer coat associated with Norse cultures. The front panels cross over each other and the coat is held closed with a belt. Often trimmed with tablet woven trim and possibly fur.

Description:

Wool coat lined with linen decorated with a tablet woven band. The coat is shown over a Bocksten style tunic and under tunic. Often associated with fragments found in Haithabu

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool 2/2 twill
- cross twill
- diamond twill
- herringbone twill
- wool that could be lined with will or linen.
Ornamentation:
- Tablet woven trim in wool, linen, or silk. Possibly brocaded with metal.
- Embroidery

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Wool blends
- linen blends
Ornamentation:
- Appropriately patterned commercially woven trim
- Inkle-woven Trim
- Tablet woven trim
- Cotton or poly thread

Ensemble Components

Birka style coat
Bocksten cut tunic
Bocksten cut under tunic

Pants
Shoes

Accessories

Belt
pouch

Simple Hat
leg wraps

Source/Links

https://sites.google.com/site/archoevidence/home/viking-clothing-guides

Version	2
date	2/21/2021
Source of Period Pic	Sutton Hoo Helm decoration, British museum
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

900 CE Norse Hangerok 4

January 19, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	900 CE Norse Hangerok 4
Entry #	GGB2021.013
Alternate Names	Apron Dress, Smokkr
Year	900 CE
Time range	900-1000 CE
Era	Early medieval
Gender	female
region	Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	Norse, Viking,
Maker	Moire inghean Neill
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Speculative reconstruction

Intro:

A tunic dress under layer with an apron like over dress with shoulder straps pinned in place with distinctive brooch pins. Remains of decorative trim sometimes found on the top band of the dress. Often accessorized with beads and metal accessories. There are several theorized construction techniques. No current supportive evidence for belts.

Description:

Naturally dyed under dress with a Red wool over dress –

They are an overdress worn over a tunic-like under dress. They generally take the shape of a tube or flared tube with broaches that connect shoulder straps to the front of the over dress. The grave finds have shown general construction of wool and some linen with variation in color, finishing and decoration. There are many fabulous resources on line to research this easy to construct garment

Current research suggests that the general style of apron dress may have been used across Norse cultures with regional variations. Local and regional differences may have led to many variations on the theme.

There is scant evidence from the grave finds due to excessive decomposition of the fabrics. These still seem to be dresses of a debatable authenticity. This has led to some of the different interpretations that are found on line.

Based on the articles I have read at this time I will side with the argument that this is a general category of garment that saw variations based on region, culture and time period. They can be grouped together as a style due to specific traits in common.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
- linen
Ornamentation:
- tablet woven decorations
- embroidery
- Silk or linen strips or threads

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen
- linen blends
- cotton
- wool blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Hangeroc (apron overdress)
underdress

Coat/Kaftan

Accessories

strands of beads
- glass or amber
Small tools (scissors, needle case, ear spoons, etc)

Brooches

Source/Links

Raymonds Quiet Press – source for reproduction broaches

https://raymonds-quiet-press.myshopify.com/

http://urd.priv.no/viking/smokkr.html

http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html

Version	2
date	2/21/2021
Source of Period Pic	http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html
Model	Moire inghean Neill 091413-01
Photographer	Vincent De Vere