1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 1

Title1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 1
Entry #GGB2021.067
Alternate Names V neck gown, gown
Year1450
Time range1450-1500
EraLate Medieval
GenderFemale
regionNorthern Europe
Countries/culturesFrance
MakerJehanne Bening
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

“A” shaped dress with “V” shaped neckline, fitted in the torso and spreading widely, often with train from the waist.  Wide belt at waist.  Worn over fitted kirtle.

Description:

One of the garments that there are many image examples for as this is a time of many surviving artworks.  A style of dress seen in many Flemish paintings that show a common set of features including fitted torso with deeply plunging neckline and collar with contrasting fabric or fur lining. The deep neckline displayed an under placket or partlet or kirtle, some displayed without.  Sleeves often shown with lined cuffs that are rolled back on the sleeve.  Most show no seam at waist or a wide belt covering any such seam.  More examples of images showing the waist seam appear closer to 1500CE. Many are displayed as being lined

Under layers would commonly include a shift, slip or some form of underdress, covered by a fitted kirtle and then covered by the gown. 

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate. 

This is a more simple form of the dress and worn on a warmer day.  The under layers are simplified and the dress is not as full. Made out of brocaded cotton fabric with a black velvet collar and the red placket exposed by the neckline.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Gown –
      • wools,
      • finely woven wools,
      • brocaded or patterned cloths.  Rich textiles,
      • collars featuring velvets and furs. 
      • Fur trim
    • Kirtle –
      • wool
      • linen
    • Underclothes
      • linen
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Gown
      • Some cottons
      • linens
      • Linen blends wool blends
      • brocades
      • some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns. 
    • Kirtle
      • Linen and linen blends
      • some cottons to lighten the under layers
    • Underclothes
      • Linen
      • Linen blends
      • cottons
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Under layers – shift/slip or some form of underdress
  • gown. 

  • fitted kirtle

Accessories

  • Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate. 
  • This is the time of the Henin hat that becomes the stereotypical ‘princess’ hat, various low shoes or slippers, pouches or purses.

Source/Links

http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-gown.html

https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/06/02/how-to-make-a-kirtle-and-a-burgundian-gown/

https://dawnsdressdiary.wordpress.com/2018/01/25/burgundian-v-neck-gown-research/

Version2
date3/2/2021
Source of Period PicThe Whore of Babylon. 1470. Pierpont Morgan MS M.68. Saint Catherine converting the Scholars. Walters Art Museum 37.2487.
Model Jehanne Bening
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

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