Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Braies, Long 4 Piece

TitleBraies, Long 4 Piece
Entry #GGC2021.014
Alternate NamesBraies, underwear, Breeches  
YearAntiquity-end of period
Time rangeAntiquity-end of period
EraAntiquity, Bronze age, Iron Age, early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Genderunisex
regionEuropean
Countries/culturesWestern European, Central European
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty1
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

Attempt to replicate one of the simple versions of commonly seen undergarments.                      

Description:

.  

One of the many variations of the underwear seen in imagery from antiquity through to the end of the SCA period.  A common and personal garment like underwear is less likely to survive or be well represented in documentation.  There are many works of art that do represent people in undergarments and so the use of the garments can be documented and construction can be inferred.  Undergarments would nearly be universally constructed from linen.

Of the different styles of braies they vary in length, in how they are held up or how much fabric is used in their construction (ie, how baggy they are). Use of braies is often one of the later stages of refinement for SCA participants as they are rarely seen.  Wearing Braies can take some getting used to as they tend to have more fabric bunched up then we are modernly use to.

This is an attempt to replicate one of the very basic ‘boxer short’ style braies.  It is made from 4 pieces, either leg is sewn up the leg and sewn together with a square crotch gusset as well as an attached waist band.

The example is made out of linen and the braies are held up by rolling the waist band over a separate belt or cord tied around the waist..

Many illustrations of people from all levels of society survive showing people wearing undergarments but this example gives us insight to the construction technique.

The historical use of braies by women is assumed by us and use by members of the SCA is common.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • linen  

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen blends
    • Linen
    • wool
    • cotton
    • cotton blends

Ensemble Components

  • Underwear such as braies are seen through many time periods and cultures and so can be associated with many different ensembles

Accessories

Source/Links

Instructions for constructing braies like this are covered in books like Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, a very good book worth buying

source image Public Domain

http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/maciejowski_images_18.htm

Version1
date12/25/2021
Source of Period PicMaciejowski bible
Model Vincent de Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Male

Damendorf Trousers 1

TitleDamendorf Trousers 1
Entry #GGC2021.007
Alternate NamesTrews, PJ pants, hose   
Year100-300 CE
Time range100-300 CE
EraIron Age
Genderunisex
regionEuropean
Countries/culturesGermany, Western European, Central European
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty2
ConfidenceExtant Example

Intro:

Modified example of trousers found in a bog in Germany with a tailored construction and attached feet              

Description:

An extant example of trousers found in a bog near Damendorf, Rendsburg Eckerförde, Germany dated from between 100’s and 300’s CE. 

This style of pants are more complicated than the regular SCA ‘poofy pants’ that many people start out with.  There are some places online where the patterns can be found or even purchased.  This pattern has been modified from the extant example by leaving the two triangular gussets connected to the back panel.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool  

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool blends
    • linen blends
    • Linen
    • wool
    • cotton
    • cotton blends

Ensemble Components

The Damendorf Man was found with leather shoes, leg wraps and a leather belt.  This would also likely go with one or more tunics

Accessories

  • The Damendorf Man was found with leather shoes, leg wraps and a leather belt

Source/Links

. Archäologisches Landesmuseum Schloss Gottorf in Schleswig. Photo by by Andreas Franzkowiak

Version1
date12/25/2021
Source of Period Pic. Archäologisches Landesmuseum Schloss Gottorf in Schleswig. Photo by by Andreas Franzkowiak
Model Vincent de Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Hose wool 1

TitleHose wool 1
Entry #GGC2021.009
Alternate Namesseparate hose, split hose, hose, hosen, stocking, chausses 
Year1000-1500 CE
Time range1000-1500 CE
Eraearly medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Genderunisex
regionEuropean
Countries/culturesWestern European, Central European
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty2
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

Examples of split hose sewn from linen and tied to the breech garter at the waist.                          

Description:

This is an example of split hose made out of wool.  They have enclosed feet and a hole at the side to tie to a belt or girdle.  They may commonly be seen with a garter tied just below the knee to assist in keeping the hose from slipping.  The garter may be a tied woven band or a band with a buckle.

There is evidence supporting the use of some form of split hose stretching to early medieval times with their height in high medieval times.  By the 1300’s the split hose were beginning to be less fashionable and were replaced by joined hose, however split hose continued to be used until the end of period. 

The longer forms of the split hose may be associated with male fashion and the short hose with women and children, but people likely wore what they preferred as well as what matched their needs.

The best hose is made out of light wool fabric that has some spring to the weave and cut on the bias (diagonally.) although very wasteful of the fabric, the bias cut means that the resulting hose are slightly more elastic and fit better. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool  

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen blends
    • Linen
    • wool
    • cotton
    • cotton blends
    • Wool blends

Ensemble Components

  • Hosen were worn by many different cultures and time periods and by many levels of society.  Closely associated with the hosen are the Braies worn under the hosen and the girdle or belt used to hold them up as well as the garters to keep them from slipping worn just below the knee. 

Accessories

  • Garters or woven material tied or a belt style garter.  Girdle belt or belt worn at the waist and tied to the hosen to keep them up

Source/Links

http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/maciejowski_images_18.htm

Version1
date12/30/2021
Source of Period Picmaciejowski bible
Model Vincent de Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Coif, 2 piece

TitleCoif, 2 piece
Entry #GGC2021.003
Alternate NamesCoif  
Year1000-1600 CE
Time range1000-1600 CE
EraHigh Medieval, Late Medieval
Genderunisex
regionEuropean
Countries/culturesGermany, Western European, Central European
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty1
ConfidenceExtant Example

Intro:

Head covering made from small scraps of linen fabric.                  

Description:

It’s underwear for your head.  Many images of the middle ages feature people wearing coifs to cover and protect their hair, oils from their head from their hats and for something to connect hats to.  They also are an easy accessory to add to your

These are very simple to construct either by machine or by hand and take very little fabric.  They are easily made from cotton fabric or linen and there are surviving examples and images that show a number of variations through time or cultures.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • linen  

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen blends
    • Linen
    • wool
    • cotton
    • cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Illustration from Cantigas de Santa Maria manuscript. The Cantigas de Santa Maria (Songs to the Virgin Mary) are manuscripts written in Galician-Portuguese, with music notation, during the reign of Alfonso X El Sabio (1221-1284).

Version1
date12/30/2021
Source of Period PicBritish Library
Model Vincent de Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Coif, 3 piece

TitleCoif, 3 piece
Entry #GGC2021.004
Alternate NamesCoif  
Year1000-1600 CE
Time range1000-1600 CE
EraHigh Medieval, Late Medieval
Genderunisex
regionEuropean
Countries/culturesGermany, Western European, Central European
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty1
ConfidenceExtant Example

Intro:

Head covering made from small scraps of linen fabric.                  

Description:

It’s underwear for your head.  Many images of the middle ages feature people wearing coifs to cover and protect their hair, oils from their head from their hats and for something to connect hats to.  They also are an easy accessory to add to your

These are very simple to construct either by machine or by hand and take very little fabric.  They are easily made from cotton fabric or linen and there are surviving examples and images that show a number of variations through time or cultures.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • linen  

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen blends
    • Linen
    • wool
    • cotton
    • cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Illustration from Cantigas de Santa Maria manuscript. The Cantigas de Santa Maria (Songs to the Virgin Mary) are manuscripts written in Galician-Portuguese, with music notation, during the reign of Alfonso X El Sabio (1221-1284).

Version1
date12/30/2021
Source of Period PicBritish Library
Model Vincent de Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Hose Linen 1

TitleHose Linen 1
Entry #GGC2021.008
Alternate Namesseparate hose, split hose, hose, hosen, stocking, chausses 
Year1000-1500 CE
Time range1000-1500 CE
Eraearly medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Genderunisex
regionEuropean
Countries/culturesWestern European, Central European
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty2
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

Examples of split hose sewn from linen and tied to the breech garter at the waist.                          

Description:

This is an example of split hose made out of linen and parti-colored.  They have enclosed feet and a hole at the side to tie to a belt or girdle.  They may commonly be seen with a garter tied just below the knee to assist in keeping the hose from slipping.  The garter may be a tied woven band or a band with a buckle.

There is evidence supporting the use of some form of split hose stretching to early medieval times with their height in high medieval times.  By the 1300’s the split hose were beginning to be less fashionable and were replaced by joined hose, however split hose continued to be used until the end of period. 

The longer forms of the split hose may be associated with male fashion and the short hose with women and children, but people likely wore what they preferred as well as what matched their needs.

The best hose is made out of light wool fabric that has some spring to the weave and cut on the bias (diagonally.) although very wasteful of the fabric, the bias cut means that the resulting hose are slightly more elastic and fit better. 

The historical use of various kinds of hose by women is assumed by us and use by members does occur.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool  

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen blends
    • Linen
    • wool
    • cotton
    • cotton blends
    • Wool blends

Ensemble Components

  • Hosen were worn by many different cultures and time periods and by many levels of society.  Closely associated with the hosen are the Braies worn under the hosen and the girdle or belt used to hold them up as well as the garters to keep them from slipping worn just below the knee. 

Accessories

  • Garters or woven material tied or a belt style garter.  Girdle belt or belt worn at the waist and tied to the hosen to keep them up

Source/Links

http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/maciejowski_images_18.htm

Version1
date12/25/2021
Source of Period Picmaciejowski bible
Model Vincent de Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Full Entry, Male

1000 CE Norman Riding Tunic 2

Title: 1000 CE Norman Riding Tunic 2
Entry #: GGB2021.028
Alternate Names: tunic, t tunic 
Year: 1000
Time range: 900-1200 CE
Era: Early Medieval
Gender: Male
region: Western Europe
Countries/cultures: England France
Maker: Vincent De Vere, Kristine Nic Tallier
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image example

Intro:

A version of the basic tunic used in many European cultures from antiquity through to the high middle ages by some.  This tunic is split to allow wearer to ride a horse and have freedom of movement.

Description:

One of the many variations of the tunics made out of linen or wool. This example has a keyhole neck opening and featuring a split in front and back bottom to allow the wearer to ride a horse. 

This variation was cut T tunic style out of a wide piece of fabric to minimize seams. A more period cut would include seams connecting the sleeve to the body.  Trim is an applique of linen.  Keyhole neck is held closed with a brooch pin.  Tunics are about the easiest garments to construct.

Tunics are often the starting point for new members when just beginning in the SCA.  This tunic could be made for less than $20 in 2021.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen (including non-flax linen)
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool blends,
    • Linen, linen/rayon
    • linen/cotton
    • some cottons could be used but cotton broad cloth is not advised as it is not a strong material and doesn’t drape well
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Under shirt (likely of a similar cut)
  • Belt
  • Pouch

New members often start with just a tunic and belt.

  • pants/trews/braccae
  • leg wraps
  • turn shoes/boots

Accessories

  • under tunic as bottom layer
  • belt
  • pants
  • over tunic or super tunic over the tunic
  • shoes
  • cloak or coat

Source/Links

http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html

http://alianorderavenglas.wordpress.com/as-50-challenge/13th-century-riding-tunic/

Version: 2
date: 3/1/2021
Source of Period Pic: Maciejowski Bible.
Model: Vincent De Vere
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

1000 CE Norman Riding Tunic 1

Title: 1000 CE Norman Riding Tunic 1
Entry #: GGB2021.027
Alternate Names: tunic, t tunic 
Year: 1000
Time range: 900-1200 CE
Era: Early Medieval
Gender: Male
region: Western Europe
Countries/cultures: England France
Maker: Vincent De Vere
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: Image example

Intro:

A version of the basic tunic used in many European cultures from antiquity through to the high middle ages by some.  This tunic is split to allow wearer to ride a horse and have freedom of movement.

Description:

One of the many variations of the tunics made out of linen or wool. This example has a keyhole neck opening and featuring a split in front and back bottom to allow the wearer to ride a horse. 

This variation was cut T tunic style out of a wide piece of fabric to minimize seams. A more period cut would include seams connecting the sleeve to the body.  Trim is an applique of linen.  Keyhole neck is held closed with a brooch pin.  Tunics are about the easiest garments to construct.

Tunics are often the starting point for new members when just beginning in the SCA.  This tunic could be made for less than $20 in 2021.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen (including non-flax linen)
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool blends,
    • Linen, linen/rayon
    • linen/cotton
    • some cottons could be used but cotton broad cloth is not advised as it is not a strong material and doesn’t drape well
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Under shirt (likely of a similar cut)
  • Belt
  • Pouch

New members often start with just a tunic and belt.

  • pants/trews/braccae
  • leg wraps
  • turn shoes/boots

Accessories

  • under tunic as bottom layer
  • belt
  • pants
  • over tunic or super tunic over the tunic
  • shoes
  • cloak or coat

Source/Links

http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html

http://alianorderavenglas.wordpress.com/as-50-challenge/13th-century-riding-tunic/

Version: 2
date: 3/1/2021
Source of Period Pic: Maciejowski Bible.
Model: Vincent De Vere
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1000 CE Female Norman Gown 3

Title: 1000 CE Female Norman Gown 3
Entry #: GGB2021.019
Alternate Names: Gown, Cotte, tunic dress 
Year: 1100 CE
Time range: 900-1150CE
Era: High Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Western Europe
Countries/cultures: Norman, Anglo Saxon, England, france
Maker: Sorcha O’Riain
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A common tunic dress style garment prevalent both in England as well as central Europe for the time leading up to and after the Norman invasion of 1066 CE

Description:

A common style worn by women in pre and post Norman invasion in England as well as France consisted of a tunic style underdress and over dress.

The underdress called a chemise, chainse or smock would commonly be made of linen. 

The over tunic or cotte would be longer for higher status women or shorter for working class. Sleeves are shown in some painting both tight to the wrist as well as bell or trumpet sleeves. Commonly made out of wool and perhaps decorated with embroidery or the applique of contrasting fabrics.

Commonly work with this would be simple turn or bag shoes, and a head covering such as a wimple and veil. 

This dress is constructed as a tunic style dress,  A blue bell-sleeved over dress, or gown, worn over a green and white underdress, with a chemise under that.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Underdress – Linen, including non-flax linens
    • Overdress – Wool
    • Wimple/veil – Linen or silk for high status women
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Underdress – linen, linen blends, cottons
    • Overdresses – Wool blends, linens, linen blends, some heaver cottons
    • Wimple/Veil – linen, silk, poly (watch out for candles!)
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Underdress – below the knee, long sleeved, white or off white light fabrics
  • Overdress

  • Headwear
  • Shoes

Accessories

  • Belt
  • Pouch
  • Bag

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic: Figure of Grammatica, from the Hortus Deliciarum – 12th century
Model: Sorcha O’Riain
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1000 CE Female Norman Gown 2

Title: 1000 CE Female Norman Gown 2
Entry #: GGB2021.018
Alternate Names: Gown, Cotte, tunic dress 
Year: 1100 CE
Time range: 900-1150CE
Era: High Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Western Europe
Countries/cultures: Norman, Anglo Saxon, England, france
Maker: Christine Misterka
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A common tunic dress style garment prevalent both in England as well as central Europe for the time leading up to and after the Norman invasion of 1066 CE

Description:

A common style worn by women in pre and post Norman invasion in England as well as France consisted of a tunic style underdress and over dress.

The underdress called a chemise, chainse or smock would commonly be made of linen. 

The over tunic or cotte would be longer for higher status women or shorter for working class. Sleeves are shown in some painting both tight to the wrist as well as bell or trumpet sleeves. Commonly made out of wool and perhaps decorated with embroidery or the applique of contrasting fabrics.

Commonly work with this would be simple turn or bag shoes, and a head covering such as a wimple and veil. 

This dress is constructed as a tunic style dress,  A blue bell-sleeved over dress, or gown, worn over a green and white underdress, with a chemise under that.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Underdress – Linen, including non-flax linens
    • Overdress – Wool
    • Wimple/veil – Linen or silk for high status women
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Underdress – linen, linen blends, cottons
    • Overdresses – Wool blends, linens, linen blends, some heaver cottons
    • Wimple/Veil – linen, silk, poly (watch out for candles!)
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Underdress – below the knee, long sleeved, white or off white light fabrics
  • Overdress

  • Headwear
  • Shoes

Accessories

  • Belt
  • Pouch
  • Bag

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic: Figure of Grammatica, from the Hortus Deliciarum – 12th century
Model: Christine Misterka
Photographer: Vincent De Vere