Advanced Entry, C3 Entry, Female

900 CE Jorvic York Hangeroc Ensemble 2

Title: 900 CE Jorvic York Hangeroc Ensemble 2
Entry #: GGA2021.009
Alternate Names: Apron Dress 
Year: 900
Time range: 900-1000CE
Era: Early Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Western European
Countries/cultures: Norse, Viking, England
Maker: Æsa Helgulfsdottir
From: Barony of Endless Hills, Æthelmearc
Difficulty: 5
Confidence: Speculative Reconstruction

These entries are taken from the participants in the Calontir Clothing Challenge (C3) which ran from 10/1/2020-1/31/2021. The C3 challenged artisans to make a 4-layer outfit over a four month period, three of which were clothing layers and the fourth an “accessory” (widely defined to include anything that displayed a non-sewing skill), while documenting their work. Entrants ranged from beginners making their first outfits to experienced members.

Because of how these were received, they will be in a different format to other entries.

Intro:

About Æsa: I’ve been in the SCA for about 13 years. While I love sewing, I also enjoy playing with other skills like archery, knife and axe throwing, fiber arts, basket weaving, herbalism, soap making, pottery and brewing/cooking. I love acquiring skills that a Viking wife would have used in her everyday life. While the sewing aspects of the garments will not be difficult, historical clothing can sometimes present challenges as I am paralyzed. I often have to strike a balance between something that looks as correct as possible while also being comfortable, allowing for medical restrictions and not hindering my wheelchair’s movement.

Description:

I’m hoping to create an ensemble that would have been worn by the Norse wife of a fairly well-off land owner in 10th century Jorvik. The piece is not based on any single burial find, but takes inspiration from several. The plan is for wool stockings, a linen underdress, a woolen dress and apron with jewelry and a head covering. The goal is to spin and weave a component of the ensemble.

I’m very happy with my final project! When I started the dress concept in October, I was trying to envision what would look good photographed in a bleak January landscape (Pennsylvania can be pretty dreary this time of year!). I had many moments during the challenge where I questioned the decision to leave my designs simple and the colors natural, but in the end I’m very happy that I stuck to my original plan. It turned out exactly as I wanted it to.

C3 Level:

Historically Focused/Advanced

Complete Outfit Images:

Layer 1

seams and tacked them down using a running stitch and matching threads. For my stockings, I struggled a little deciding what to make. Many of the current interpretations from archeological finds seem to have a seam running along the sole of the foot, which I was afraid would be very irritating as I have some nerve issues from the paralysis. I also knew that I wanted the stockings to end below the knee, as I didn’t want to have any fabric bunched behind the knee as my legs are always bent. In the end, I used a pattern that I had drafted about ten years ago from “The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant” as I knew that it was comfortable to wear. The stockings were made from brown wool flannel, hand sewn and the seams were tacked down using a running stitch in contrasting thread.

Layer 2

The second layer is a simple gown made of Shetland wool in a diamond twill. It’s a dress style and pattern that I’ve used many times before, so no issues! All the seams are handsewn and raw edges enclosed.

Layer 3

My third layer is an apron dress. The fabric was hand woven from yarn that I spun in my fiber mill. The center panel is dyed using walnut hulls. The dress is a simple tube construction with a little gathering in the front. I think that the tube style might be an issue if I was walking, but in the wheelchair it gathers the underdresses in and keeps them away from the tires very nicely! I had originally wanted to bind the top edge with more of the walnut dyed fabric, but it ended up being too bulky so I used the same wool as my stockings instead. I really liked the look of the felted fringe at the edge of the weaving, so I left it as the bottom of my dress.

The seams are handsewn; however, the fabric is a very loose weave and I did have trouble keeping the seams from unraveling. The fabric is thick enough that bound seams were becoming very bulky. Because getting dressed in the wheelchair can require a lot of tugging fabric into place, I reinforced a few of the seams on my sewing machine. This is the only machine sewing in the entire project.

Layer 4

My judged accessory is a willow and oak basket. The most explanation that I could find on viking baskets that were not the Gokstad backpack was the following reference “Round and square basket bases were found in the Scandinavian settlement in York, England, then known as “Jorvik.” The bases have holes around the perimeter, indicating that sticks or reeds may have been seated there, serving as the vertical staves to support the horizontally-woven bands.”

My husband cut and drilled the oak base for me, as the majority of our woodworking tools are in the basement which is not wheelchair accessible. I soaked the willow for a week and then wove the basket using a 3 rod wale for the bottom and top edges and a single plain weave for the body. I’ve made baskets before, but this was my first willow basket and my first with a solid base.

Additional accessories include:

A handwoven shawl from Shetland wool. I spun the yarn in my fiber mill.

A headscarf of linen, lightly dyed with walnut.

A Jorvik cap, handsewn from linen I wove on a ground loom many Pennsics ago.

A leather knife sheath with sterling silver embellishments.

A necklace of carnelian and crystal quartz with bronze additions.

Version:1.0
date: 1/2/2022
Source of Period Pic:
Model: Æsa Helgulfsdottir
Photographer: Æsa Helgulfsdottir
  
Basic Entry, Female

1300 CE Female Russian Opasten Coat

Title: 1300 CE Female Russian Opasten Coat
Entry #: GGB2021.044
Alternate Names:  
Year: 1300
Time range:
Era: High medieval
Gender: Female
region: Eastern europe
Countries/cultures: Russia
Maker: Sofia la Rus
Difficulty: 3
Confidence: Not Provided

Intro:

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 03/1/2021
Source of Period Pic:
Model: Sofia la Rus
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Basic Entry, Female

1500 CE Female Safavid Persian 5

Title1500 CE Female Safavid Persian 4
Entry #GGB2021.083
Alternate Names 
Year1500
Time range1502 – end of period
EraLate medieval
GenderFemale
regionMiddle East
Countries/culturesPersian
MakerCatalina de Arazuri
Difficulty2
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version2
date3/6/2021
Source of Period Pichttp://www.artarena.force9.co.uk/safavidart.htm
ModelCatalina De Arazuri 091413-03
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Basic Entry, Female

1500 CE Female Safavid Persian 4

Title1500 CE Female Safavid Persian 4
Entry #GGB2021.083
Alternate Names 
Year1500
Time range1502 – end of period
EraLate medieval
GenderFemale
regionMiddle East
Countries/culturesPersian
MakerAdelaide al zaarga bint Janos
Difficulty2
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version2
date3/6/2021
Source of Period Pichttp://www.artarena.force9.co.uk/safavidart.htm
ModelAdelaide al zaarga bint Janos 091413-07
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Basic Entry, Female

1500 CE Female Safavid Persian 3

Title1500 CE Female Safavid Persian 3
Entry #GGB2021.082
Alternate Names 
Year1500
Time range1502 – end of period
EraLate medieval
GenderFemale
regionMiddle East
Countries/culturesPersian
MakerAlessandra de Piro
Difficulty2
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version2
date3/6/2021
Source of Period Pichttp://www.artarena.force9.co.uk/safavidart.htm
ModelAlessandra de Piro 022313-06
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Basic Entry, Female

1500 CE Female Safavid Persian 2

Title1500 CE Female Safavid Persian 2
Entry #GGB2021.081
Alternate Names 
Year1500
Time range1502 – end of period
EraLate medieval
GenderFemale
regionMiddle East
Countries/culturesPersian
MakerCecilia de Gatisbury
Difficulty2
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version2
date3/6/2021
Source of Period Pichttp://www.artarena.force9.co.uk/safavidart.htm
ModelCecilia de Gatisbury 022313-06
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Basic Entry, Female

1500 CE Female Safavid Persian 1

Title1500 CE Female Safavid Persian 1
Entry #GGB2021.080
Alternate Names 
Year1500
Time range1502-end of period
EraLate Medieval
GenderFemale
regionMiddle East
Countries/culturesPersian
MakerRahil al-Sirhaan
Difficulty2
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version2
date3/6/2021
Source of Period Pichttp://www.artarena.force9.co.uk/safavidart.htm
ModelRahil al-Sirhaan
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Simple Wide Belt with Modern Buckle

TitleSimple Wide Belt with Modern Buckle
Entry #GGC2021.030
Alternate NamesBelt
Year
Time rangeAntiquity to end of period
EraAntiquity to end of period
GenderUnisex
regionEurope
Countries/culturesEurope
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty1
ConfidenceExtant Example

Intro:

 Various belts.      

Description:

This is a modern buckle taken from a worn out belt and attached to a strip of leather to form a belt. This easily made belt works very well for people new to the SCA.

There are a number of resources that we have seen that state that many of the belts used in period were more narrow (less than 1 inch in width) so this belt is less representative.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Leather
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Leather
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons

Version1
date1/2/2022
Source of Period PicBritish Museum
Model 
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Ring Belt

TitleRing Belt
Entry #GGC2021.028
Alternate NamesRing Belt
Year
Time range
Era
GenderUnisex
regionEurope
Countries/cultures
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty1
ConfidenceFantasy Garment

Intro:

 Various belts.      

Description:

Ring belts are popular at ren fairs and for newer members but may not be supported with much historical evidence.  Many surviving buckles with tongues can be found from different time periods. A number of vendors cater to reenactors with different reproductions available online.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Leather
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Leather
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons

Version1
date1/2/2022
Source of Period PicBritish Museum
Model 
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Pants, Basic 2 Piece

TitleSCA Pants, Basic 2 Piece
Entry #GGC2021.002
Alternate NamesTrews, PJ pants,   
YearAntiquity-end of period
Time rangeAntiquity-end of period
Eraall
Genderunisex
regionall
Countries/culturesall
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty1
ConfidenceImage examples/

Intro:

A tunic and an outer layer coat associated with Norse cultures.  The front panels cross over each Simplified version of pants worn in many cultures and times periods from antiquity to the end of the SCA period     

Description:

Wool coat lined with linen decorated with a tablet woven band.  The coat is shown over a

One of the many variations of the pants seen in imagery from antiquity through to the end of the SCA period.   There are many works of art that do represent people in a variety of pants.  The garments can be documented and construction can be inferred in a variety of forms.  Many examples of surviving extant fragments were of wool.

Variations in pants include how baggy the garments are, how long they are, how wide the waistline is and how the waist is cinched closed.

This example is for a basic SCA ‘pajama pant’ constructed from a medium cotton material with a drawstring closure for the waist.  The pants are made in 2 parts with the seams sewn up the inside of either leg and then the legs are sewn together with one crotch seam.  The top of the pants are folded over to form the channel for the drawstring.  This version may be slightly tighter than how some people construct them.     

Patterns are easily generated by laying an example of a normal pajama pants that fit the person on a folded pieces of paper.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool  

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool blends
    • linen blends
    • Linen
    • wool
    • cotton
    • cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Greek vase showing Amazon wearing trousers Marie-Lan Nguyen (2007)

British Museum, CC BY 2.5 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.5&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons

Version1
date12/25/2021
Source of Period PicBritish Museum, Amazon wearing trousers
Model Vincent de Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere