Female, Full Entry

1490 CE German Female Housebook Dress

Title1490 CE German Female Housebook Dress
Entry #GGB2021.071
Alternate Names 
Year1490
Time range1480-1500
EraLate medieval
GenderFemale
regionCentral europe
Countries/culturesGermany
MakerAmira bint Timurhan
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

Dress with front and back pleated section. Most often portrayed in the a book of engravings by the Master of the Housebook.

Description:

This dress is commonly known as a housebook dress because it was frequently portrayed in a book of engravings called the Housebook. It is a dress with pleated inset in both front and back with fall into the fullness of the skirt. The haub is a pleated rectangle of fabric (I use linen) which is wound about the head to produce is shape. The tail of the haub can be tucked back into it, wound around your neck and simply left to hang.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Gown – wools, finely woven wools, brocaded or patterned cloths.  Rich textiles, collars featuring velvets and furs.  Fur trim
    • Kirtle – wools lined in linen
    • Underclothes – Linen
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Gown – Some cottons, linens, Linen blends wool blends, brocades, some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns. 
    • Kirtle – Linen and linen blends, some cottons to lighten the under layers
    • Underclothes – Linen, linen blends, cottons
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Haube
  • chemise
  • hosen

  • pointed shoes
  • housebook dress

Accessories

  • thin leather belt
  • mantle (short cloak)
  • schaube (heavy long coat)
  • purse
  • apron

Source/Links

http://myra.hem.nu/costume/images/HousebookMaster/LL%28FiledtKoko1985%29/MH.StCatherine%28LLcat47%29.jpg

http://craftyagatha.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/pleat-detail3.png (detail of back pleats) http://employees.oneonta.edu/farberas/arth/Images/ARTH_214images/prints/housebook_aristotle_and_phyllis.jpg

http://myra.hem.nu/costume/Documentation/Documentation.htm

Version2
date3/2/2021
Source of Period Pichttps://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Durer,_Portrait_of_a_Young_F%C3%BCrleger_with_Her_Hair_Done_Up.jpg
ModelAmira bint Timurhan
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

1500 CE German Male Landsknecht

Title1500 CE German Male Landsknecht
Entry #GGB2021.085
Alternate Names Waffenkleid, Reitrock, waffenrock
Year1500
Time range1470-1550 CE
EraLate Medieval
GenderMale
regionCentral Europe
Countries/culturesGermany/Switzerland
Maker
Difficulty4
ConfidenceImage of Example

Intro:

Highly ornamented “war coats” worn by military forces out of areas around Germany and Switzerland.  Closely associated with (and evolving into) the more flamboyant Landsknecht mercenaries

Description:

Bright clashing colors, bold stripes mismatched parts.  Sleeves and legs with decorative slashes.  Wool over garments worn by mercenaries and often scavenged from the best parts found on the battlefield.  The top buttons closed and the garment is worn over at least an undershirt, and breeches.  Usually seen with long stockings and sometimes with the wide ‘cow mouth’ shoes. The sleeves and skirt portions have a lot of fabric pleated in. 

Related terms:

Waffenrock: war coat

Reitrock: riding coat, split for riding

Waffenkleid: war tunic

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool main garments in bright colors, or color combinations. 
    • linen undergarments
  • Ornamentation:
    • Knitted stockings

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Some poly/cotton brocades to simulate the rich fabrics.  Wool blends are easier to find. 
    • Linen blends and cottons for undergarments. 
    • Very hard to make these look right without investing in the right materials.
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Coat – wool overlayer with attached skirt
  • Undershirt – linen shirt

  • Breeches – wool pants to the knee
  • Stockings

Accessories

  • Retailers catering to reenactors sell the cow mouth shoes and striped stockings in vibrant colors. 
  • Belt
  • pouch/purse.

Source/Links

http://research.fibergeek.com/category/garbclothing/16th-century/landsknecht-waffenrock-1517/

Version2
date3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic 
ModelBrockman 031113-10
PhotographerVincent De Vere