Hourglass Shaped Gown with Large Sleeves & Detachable Under Sleeves
This style of dress is an evolutionary phase within the 16th century that is influenced by Spanish and German styles. The silhouette has an hourglass shape: the bodice narrowed to a small waistline and the skirt gradually expanding into an inverted cone shape. Many of these dresses were floor length and without a train.
To achieve the cone shaped appearance required a supportive layer called the Spanish farthingale which was worn over the chemise. A pair of bodies was worn with the farthingale and over the chemise. The front of the overdress would have an inverted V opening and the neckline was square with highly decorative jewels or trim on the edging. The sleeves were narrowed at the shoulder and expanded outward (normally a wide square cuff) that was turned back on itself. This cuff could be made of fur or brocade. A detachable, false sleeve was worn underneath and was decorated with panes and slashes through which the chemise could be seen or pulled through.
- Linen, Cotton, Wool, Silk, Brocade, Jacquard, Satin, and Taffeta*
- *Some of the materials refer to weave structure and would have been made from natural fibers.
- Whalebone, cane, or steel for farthingale. Leather for shoes.
- Some Polyester/cotton blended brocade, jacquard, satin, and taffeta.
- linen blends and cottons for under layers
- Plastic, zip ties, and metal for boning.
- Chemise: undermost garment that is cut full and gathered into a round or square neckline; with full, gathered sleeves and ruffled cuff.
- Spanish Farthingale: a skirt separate or sewn to petticoat with hoops that gradient in size from the waist to floor. Constructed with whalebone, cane, or steel hoops.
- Pair of Bodies: corset or under bodice that has stays (boning) laced together at the front, back, or both.
- Petticoat: an underskirt that is made with elaborate fabric which can be seen in the front opening of overdress.
- Overdress/Bodice: narrowed, stiff, and flat with an elongated V that dips at the natural waist.
- Overdress/Skirt: combined with the bodice; very full and gathered made of similar fabric to overdress bodice.
- Head wear: Coif, French Hood, Square Hood
- Shoes: Fabric or leather square-toe.
- Needlepoint/bobbin lace
- jeweled belt
- purses suspended from belt
- squared or feather fans.
Tortora, P. (2010). Survey of Historic Costume. New York: Fairchild Books.
|Source of Period Pic||https://www.wga.hu/html_m/h/holbein/hans_y/1535h/02seymou.html|
|Model||Jacquette de Brackeleire|
|Photographer||Alan Smith of Darkdale|