Vincent De Vere – Page 6 – SCA Iowa Garb Guide

1410 CE Male Houppelande à mi-jambe

January 5, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1410 CE Male Houppelande à mi-jambe
Entry #	GGB2021.064
Alternate Names	Gown, houpelande, poun, pellanda
Year	1410
Time range	1400-1430
Era	Late Medieval
Gender	Male
region	Western Europe
Countries/cultures	England, France
Maker	Vincent de Vere
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

The houppelande is an outermost layer of dress, which was worn by middle-to-upper classes, both men and women. It was worn over a more fitted undergarment. It is identified by volumes of fabric neatly pleated into a belt, and visually balanced by a large hat.

Additional Images of the garment:

Description:

Men wore houppelandes of varying lengths, depending on the fashion of the time and possibly the age of the wearer. This shorter version of the garments makes it a Houppelande à mi-jambe, more popular in the years following 1400 CE.

Sleeve style varied by region and time as well, from a straight construction to wide and open, or wide and closed again at the wrist.

Necklines and sleeves started similar to cotehardies, and varied to high buttoned collars and folded down collars. Fabrics were colorful, sometimes brocaded, and often lined to contrast. Later, the female houppelande was tightened at the sleeve, a deep V left in the neck, and became the ‘Burgundian’ gown.

Layers under the Houppelande include base layers of undershirt, braies/hosen, doublet, cotehardie and the outer houppelande

First seen in documentation in 1359 CE, the garments seem to have evolved from other outer wear such as garde-corps or herigauts, warm, billowy outer layers pulled over the head.

This Houppelande à mi-jambe is made from budget friendly linen/rayon blend and is reversible.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
- linen
- silk
- tabby and brocade patterning
Ornamentation:
- embroidery
- lined with contrasting fur

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- wool blends
- linen
- linen blends
- cotton damasks
Ornamentation:
- costume or fake fur
- contrasting fabric

Ensemble Components

undershirt
doublet

cotehardie/cote/gown
braies/undergarments

Accessories

shoes with a point,
hose & garters

belt
hat

Source/Links

http://www.virtue.to/articles/circle_houp.html

http://medievalweddingdresses.ideasforweddings.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/houppelande3.jpg, http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/2482968742/in/photostream/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/2711997808/in/photostream/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/17024607@N08/2143873264, http://wp.bymymeasure.com/526/houppelande-belts-of-the-early-15th-century

Version	2
date	3/3/2021
Source of Period Pic	Thames and Hudson pg 206 Statuette from the Dam chimney-piece, Amsterdam
Model	Vincent De Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 1

January 5, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 1
Entry #	GGB2021.067
Alternate Names	V neck gown, gown
Year	1450
Time range	1450-1500
Era	Late Medieval
Gender	Female
region	Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	France
Maker	Jehanne Bening
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

“A” shaped dress with “V” shaped neckline, fitted in the torso and spreading widely, often with train from the waist. Wide belt at waist. Worn over fitted kirtle.

Description:

One of the garments that there are many image examples for as this is a time of many surviving artworks. A style of dress seen in many Flemish paintings that show a common set of features including fitted torso with deeply plunging neckline and collar with contrasting fabric or fur lining. The deep neckline displayed an under placket or partlet or kirtle, some displayed without. Sleeves often shown with lined cuffs that are rolled back on the sleeve. Most show no seam at waist or a wide belt covering any such seam. More examples of images showing the waist seam appear closer to 1500CE. Many are displayed as being lined

Under layers would commonly include a shift, slip or some form of underdress, covered by a fitted kirtle and then covered by the gown.

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.

This is a more simple form of the dress and worn on a warmer day. The under layers are simplified and the dress is not as full. Made out of brocaded cotton fabric with a black velvet collar and the red placket exposed by the neckline.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Gown –
  - wools,
  - finely woven wools,
  - brocaded or patterned cloths. Rich textiles,
  - collars featuring velvets and furs.
  - Fur trim
- Kirtle –
  - wool
  - linen
- Underclothes
  - linen
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Gown
  - Some cottons
  - linens
  - Linen blends wool blends
  - brocades
  - some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns.
- Kirtle
  - Linen and linen blends
  - some cottons to lighten the under layers
- Underclothes
  - Linen
  - Linen blends
  - cottons
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Under layers – shift/slip or some form of underdress
gown.

fitted kirtle

Accessories

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.

This is the time of the Henin hat that becomes the stereotypical ‘princess’ hat, various low shoes or slippers, pouches or purses.

Source/Links

http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-gown.html

https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/06/02/how-to-make-a-kirtle-and-a-burgundian-gown/

https://dawnsdressdiary.wordpress.com/2018/01/25/burgundian-v-neck-gown-research/

Version	2
date	3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic	The Whore of Babylon. 1470. Pierpont Morgan MS M.68. Saint Catherine converting the Scholars. Walters Art Museum 37.2487.
Model	Jehanne Bening
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 2

January 5, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 2
Entry #	GGB2021.068
Alternate Names	V neck gown, gown
Year	1450
Time range	1450-1500
Era	Late Medieval
Gender	Female
region	Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	France
Maker	Vincent de Vere
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

“A” shaped dress with “V” shaped neckline, fitted in the torso and spreading widely, often with train from the waist. Wide belt at waist. Worn over fitted kirtle.

Additional Images of the completed garment:

Description:

Under layers would commonly include a shift, slip or some form of underdress, covered by a fitted kirtle and then covered by the gown.

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.

This dress is poly cotton blend brocade with cotton velvet collar and cuffs, red linen kirtle, white linen shift. A yellow silk placket covers most of the red kirtle at the plunging neckline

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Gown –
  - wools,
  - finely woven wools,
  - brocaded or patterned cloths. Rich textiles,
  - collars featuring velvets and furs.
  - Fur trim
- Kirtle –
  - wool
  - linen
- Underclothes
  - linen
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Gown
  - Some cottons
  - linens
  - Linen blends wool blends
  - brocades
  - some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns.
- Kirtle
  - Linen and linen blends
  - some cottons to lighten the under layers
- Underclothes
  - Linen
  - Linen blends
  - cottons
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Under layers – shift/slip or some form of underdress
gown.

fitted kirtle

Accessories

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.

This is the time of the Henin hat that becomes the stereotypical ‘princess’ hat, various low shoes or slippers, pouches or purses.

Source/Links

http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-gown.html

https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/06/02/how-to-make-a-kirtle-and-a-burgundian-gown/

https://dawnsdressdiary.wordpress.com/2018/01/25/burgundian-v-neck-gown-research/

Version	2
date	3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic	The Whore of Babylon. 1470. Pierpont Morgan MS M.68. Saint Catherine converting the Scholars. Walters Art Museum 37.2487.
Model	Kristen Wereszynski
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1495 CE Venetian (Italian) Gown

January 5, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1495 CE Venetian (Italian) Gown
Entry #	GGB2021.072
Alternate Names	Italian Gown
Year	1495
Time range	1495
Era	Late medieval/Italian Renaissance
Gender	Female
region	Southern Europe
Countries/cultures	Italy, Venice
Maker	Kristine nic Tallier and Vincent De Vere
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Images

Intro:

A gown consisting of shift, under dress, over gown and pinned on sleeves based on image from Vittore Carpaccio, 1495: Meeting of the Betrothed Couple

Description:

Basic linen shift base layer

Under dress with decorative front panel of a gold brocaded material

Blue velvet over dress with short sleeves revealing a false later of white linen below

Pinned on red silk sleeves in slits revealing a white linen false sleeve below.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Basic linen shift base layer
Under dress with decorative front panel of a gold brocaded material

Blue velvet over dress with short sleeves revealing a false later of white linen below
Pinned on red silk sleeves in slits revealing a white linen false sleeve below.

Accessories

Source/Links

Version	2
date	3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic	Venice, Republic of VeniceVittore Carpaccio, 1495: Meeting of the Betrothed Couple
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

1300 CE Male Parti colored Linen Cote

January 4, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1300 CE Male Parti colored Linen Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.046
Alternate Names: Gown, Frock coat, Tunic, over tunic,
Year: 1300 CE
Time range: 1100-1400 CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker: Vincent De Vere
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A loose tunic like garment with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Extending from below the waste to below the knee with long sleeves.

Description:

This garment, or variations of it can be seen in many paintings and illustrations that cross over several regions and time frames. People from many stations in society use this functional garment, from laborers to merchants and higher. Varying slightly from its beginnings before 1100CE and fading in fashion for all but laborers late in period.

In general it is slightly more tailored tunic with the neck hole held closed by use of buttons rather than the earlier broaches. Buttons may just close the neck hole, extend part way down the chest or to the bottom of the garment. The cut is usually full producing a baggy garment belted at the waste and bloused over the belt. Some assign the length of the garment to station, with average workmen wearing it shorter to the more wealthy merchants wearing a longer garment.

Likely worn with an undershirt and in some cases a simple doublet as well as hosen or trews.

Sometimes underrepresented in the SCA, cotes can easily produce a medieval look with an easily constructed garment.

This example is a light loose parti colored cote with buttons down the whole length

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
- linen
- brocades
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- wool blends
- linen blends
- cottons
- lighter weight upholstery fabrics that simulate period patterns
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Cote
under tunic
possibly a doublet

pants or breis/hosen
Could be covered by a surcote

Accessories

hat
shoes

belt
pouch

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 2/25/2021
Source of Period Pic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:48-aspetti_di_vita_quotidiana_ubriachezza_Taccuino_Sanitatis_Shoes.jpg
Model:
Photographer: Vincent de Vere

Component Entry, Female

Apron, pleated

January 1, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Apron, gathered
Entry #	GGC2021.017
Alternate Names	Apron
Year	1000-1600 CE
Time range	1000-1600 CE
Era	high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	women
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Apron made from one yard of linen fabric featuring honeycomb pleating decoration.

Description:

This apron is made from three pieces with two long narrow strips sewn into the waistband and one large rectangle decorated with honeycomb pleating.

Aprons are easily constructed accessories that are also functional accessories to use with your SCA clothing. They can easily be made in a few minutes by machine or just a couple hours by hand. They add to the completeness of an ensemble by adding another layer to the look. They are also very functional in protecting the clothing beneath it.

The honeycomb pleating makes this apron appear much more complex but the decoration can be done in a few hours of work and makes a much more decorative accessory.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

woodcut Tailor and Seamstress by Erhard Schon, 1525-1530

These are images from the The German single-leaf woodcut, 1500-1550, Max Geisberg ; rev. and edited by Walter L. Strauss, New York : Hacker Art Books, 1974.

Version	1
date	12/30/2021
Source of Period Pic	The German single-leaf woodcut,
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere