Ring belts are popular at ren fairs and for newer members but may not be supported with much historical evidence. Many surviving buckles with tongues can be found from different time periods. A number of vendors cater to reenactors with different reproductions available online.
This is a modern buckle taken from a worn out belt and attached to a strip of leather to form a belt. This easily made belt works very well for people new to the SCA.
There are a number of resources that we have seen that state that many of the belts used in period were more narrow (less than 1 inch in width) so this belt is less representative.
Simplified version of pants worn in many cultures and times periods from antiquity to the end of the SCA period
Description:
One of the many variations of the pants seen in imagery from antiquity through to the end of the SCA period. There are many works of art that do represent people in a variety of pants. The garments can be documented and construction can be inferred in a variety of forms. Many examples of surviving extant fragments were of wool.
Variations in pants include how baggy the garments are, how long they are, how wide the waistline is and how the waist is cinched closed.
This example is for ‘pajama pants’ style pants with enclosed feet. Constructed from a medium cotton material with a drawstring closure for the waist. The pants are made in 2 parts with the seams sewn up the inside of either leg and then the legs are sewn together with one crotch seam. The top of the pants are folded over to form the channel for the drawstring. This version may be slightly tighter than how some people construct them.
Enclosing the feet allows for pants like this to be a simplified replacement for hosen, joined hosen or some of the other enclosed pants. Although probably an oversimplification, it is an easily constructed garment and can serve as a placeholder until one learns to ‘drape’ a pattern for hosen. Patterns are easily generated by laying an example of a normal pajama pants that fit the person on a folded pieces of paper. The pants are sewn long and the parts extending over the feet are pinned, resewn and trimmed until they fit. Care must be taken to leave the pants loose enough to pull over the feet.
Attempt to replicate one of the simple versions of commonly seen undergarments.
Description:
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One of the many variations of the underwear seen in imagery from antiquity through to the end of the SCA period. A common and personal garment like underwear is less likely to survive or be well represented in documentation. There are many works of art that do represent people in undergarments and so the use of the garments can be documented and construction can be inferred. Undergarments would nearly be universally constructed from linen.
Of the different styles of braies they vary in length, in how they are held up or how much fabric is used in their construction (ie, how baggy they are). Use of braies is often one of the later stages of refinement for SCA participants as they are rarely seen. Wearing Braies can take some getting used to as they tend to have more fabric bunched up then we are modernly use to.
This is an attempt to replicate one of the very basic ‘boxer short’ style braies. It is made from 4 pieces, either leg is sewn up the leg and sewn together with a square crotch gusset as well as an attached waist band.
The example is made out of linen and the braies are held up by rolling the waist band over a separate belt or cord tied around the waist..
Many illustrations of people from all levels of society survive showing people wearing undergarments but this example gives us insight to the construction technique.
The historical use of braies by women is assumed by us and use by members of the SCA is common.
Inspiration Images
Common Materials
Fabrics:
linen
Effective Substitutions
Fabrics:
linen blends
Linen
wool
cotton
cotton blends
Ensemble Components
Underwear such as braies are seen through many time periods and cultures and so can be associated with many different ensembles
Accessories
Source/Links
Instructions for constructing braies like this are covered in books like Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, a very good book worth buying
A tunic and an outer layer coat associated with Norse cultures. The front panels cross over each Simplified version of pants worn in many cultures and times periods from antiquity to the end of the SCA period
Description:
Wool coat lined with linen decorated with a tablet woven band. The coat is shown over a
One of the many variations of the pants seen in imagery from antiquity through to the end of the SCA period. There are many works of art that do represent people in a variety of pants. The garments can be documented and construction can be inferred in a variety of forms. Many examples of surviving extant fragments were of wool.
Variations in pants include how baggy the garments are, how long they are, how wide the waistline is and how the waist is cinched closed.
This example is for a basic SCA ‘pajama pant’ constructed from a medium cotton material with a drawstring closure for the waist. The pants are made in 2 parts with the seams sewn up the inside of either leg and then the legs are sewn together with one crotch seam. The top of the pants are folded over to form the channel for the drawstring. This version may be slightly tighter than how some people construct them.
Patterns are easily generated by laying an example of a normal pajama pants that fit the person on a folded pieces of paper.
This basic garment, sometimes called an ionic chiton, could work for either a Grecian chiton or a lower class roman tunica. Two pieces of fabric sewn at the sides and tacked at the sleeves.
Description:
These are light and cool and fast to make. The chiton is very much like a tunic. There are versions done with a single piece of fabric folded and tacked along to the top in a number of places or it can be done as two large rectangles of fabric that are sewn down the sides and tacked a few places along the top. Using a rope it can be cinched in at the waist. The palla can just be wrapped around and held. Sandals that work to complete the outfit can be found in modern shoe stores. Romans also had a variety of jewelry that can be made or purchased from retailers selling recreations or by modifying some modern costume jewelry.
There is a distinct variation between the Doric and Ionic chitons, as well as the roman woman’s tunic, it will not be entered into here but all of the dresses serve as easy and fast warm weather garb.
Further distinctions can be made between earlier Greek and later Roman clothing. It will not be discussed here.
Inspiration Images
Common Materials
Fabrics:
Wool
linen
silk.
The wools used would have been very fine wools that are sometimes hard to find now.
Ornamentation:
Effective Substitutions
Fabrics:
Avoid polyester, polyester blends.
Linen
linen blends
cotton
The cotton broadcloths (the cheap cottons that fill Walmart and the quilting fabric stores) are weak fabrics that don’t last long and never look quite right. They never drape and lay the way the period images show.
silk
silk like poly will be uncomfortable in the heat.
Ornamentation:
Ensemble Components
Chiton/Tunic
Palla
belt or cording
sandals
jewelry
Stola
Accessories
“Roman” sandals are still sold today and work for starter garb.
Belts can range from ropes to modern fashion chain belts.
Many examples of roman jewelry are not complex and can be made easily. There are some styles that look very similar to modern costume jewelry.
This consists of one piece or two pieces of fabric sewn at the sides and tacked at the top to form the tunic like chiton and a piece of fabric wrapped around as the palla. These are great beginner garb for hot weather
Description:
These are light and cool and fast to make. The chiton is very much like a tunic. There are versions done with a single piece of fabric folded and tacked along to the top in a number of places or it can be done as two large rectangles of fabric that are sewn down the sides and tacked a few places along the top. Using a rope it can be cinched in at the waist. The palla can just be wrapped around and held. Sandals that work to complete the outfit can be found in modern shoe stores. Romans also had a variety of jewelry that can be made or purchased from retailers selling recreations or by modifying some modern costume jewelry.
Inspiration Images
Common Materials
Fabrics:
Most lower class garments in roman times were wool, but finding the right weights and weaves of wool now is hard.
Upper classes would have some silks.
Ornamentation:
Effective Substitutions
Fabrics:
Avoid polyester, polyester blends.
Cottons can work.
Linens are good.
Very light and fine wools may be very accurate, but harder to find.
Ornamentation:
Ensemble Components
Chiton
Palla
belt
sandals
jewelry
Accessories
“Roman” sandals are still sold today and work for starter garb.
Belts can range from ropes to modern fashion chain belts.
Many examples of roman jewelry are not complex and can be made easily. There are some styles that look very similar to modern costume jewelry.
Very simple tunic like dress worn with fabric draped and pinned at the shoulders, belted at the waist
Description:
Women of all classes would have worn the basic tunic dress but women of higher classes would add an additional layer of the stola pinned over the tunic. In the example here, the white fabric is the tunic and the purple is the stola. This would have been in addition to a Palla or long wrap that could be draped in a number of ways.
In addition there are many options for jewelry and footwear that works for roman garb. There are even modern costume jewelry and modern sandals that can be found that stylistically work for roman accessories.
Beware of information about making “togas” for the college toga parties.
Inspiration Images
Common Materials
Fabrics:
Most lower class garments in roman times were wool, but finding the right weights and weaves of wool now is hard.
Upper classes would have some silks.
Ornamentation:
Effective Substitutions
Fabrics:
Avoid polyester, polyester blends.
Cottons can work.
Linens are good.
Very light and fine wools may be very accurate, but harder to find.
Ornamentation:
Ensemble Components
Chiton
Palla
belt
sandals
jewelry
Stola
Accessories
“Roman” sandals are still sold today and work for starter garb.
Belts can range from ropes to modern fashion chain belts.
Many examples of roman jewelry are not complex and can be made easily. There are some styles that look very similar to modern costume jewelry.
A tunic dress under layer with an apron like over dress with shoulder straps pinned in place with distinctive brooch pins. Remains of decorative trim sometimes found on the top band of the dress. Often accessorized with beads and metal accessories. There are several theorized construction techniques. No current supportive evidence for belts.
Description:
Naturally dyed under dress with a Red wool over dress –
They are an overdress worn over a tunic-like under dress. They generally take the shape of a tube or flared tube with broaches that connect shoulder straps to the front of the over dress. The grave finds have shown general construction of wool and some linen with variation in color, finishing and decoration. There are many fabulous resources on line to research this easy to construct garment
Current research suggests that the general style of apron dress may have been used across Norse cultures with regional variations. Local and regional differences may have led to many variations on the theme.
There is scant evidence from the grave finds due to excessive decomposition of the fabrics. These still seem to be dresses of a debatable authenticity. This has led to some of the different interpretations that are found on line.
Based on the articles I have read at this time I will side with the argument that this is a general category of garment that saw variations based on region, culture and time period. They can be grouped together as a style due to specific traits in common.
Inspiration Images
Common Materials
Fabrics:
wool
linen
Ornamentation:
tablet woven decorations
embroidery
Silk or linen strips or threads
Effective Substitutions
Fabrics:
linen
linen blends
cotton
wool blends
Ornamentation:
Ensemble Components
Hangeroc (apron overdress)
underdress
Coat/Kaftan
Accessories
strands of beads
glass or amber
Small tools (scissors, needle case, ear spoons, etc)
Brooches
Source/Links
Raymonds Quiet Press – source for reproduction broaches
A tunic dress under layer with an apron like over dress with shoulder straps pinned in place with distinctive brooch pins. Remains of decorative trim sometimes found on the top band of the dress. Often accessorized with beads and metal accessories. There are several theorized construction techniques. No current supportive evidence for belts.
Description:
Linen under dress with a blue linen over dress featuring Rus style broaches – this is a variation made to allow for the dress to be worn on very hot days.
They are an overdress worn over a tunic-like under dress. They generally take the shape of a tube or flared tube with broaches that connect shoulder straps to the front of the over dress. The grave finds have shown general construction of wool and some linen with variation in color, finishing and decoration. There are many fabulous resources on line to research this easy to construct garment
Current research suggests that the general style of apron dress may have been used across Norse cultures with regional variations. Local and regional differences may have led to many variations on the theme.
There is scant evidence from the grave finds due to excessive decomposition of the fabrics. These still seem to be dresses of a debatable authenticity. This has led to some of the different interpretations that are found on line.
Based on the articles I have read at this time I will side with the argument that this is a general category of garment that saw variations based on region, culture and time period. They can be grouped together as a style due to specific traits in common.
Inspiration Images
Common Materials
Fabrics:
wool
linen
Ornamentation:
tablet woven decorations
embroidery
Silk or linen strips or threads
Effective Substitutions
Fabrics:
linen
linen blends
cotton
wool blends
Ornamentation:
Ensemble Components
Hangeroc (apron overdress)
underdress
Coat/Kaftan
Accessories
strands of beads
glass or amber
Small tools (scissors, needle case, ear spoons, etc)
Brooches
Source/Links
Raymonds Quiet Press – source for reproduction broaches
SCA Iowa Garb Guide 