1410 CE Male Houppelande à mi-jambe

Title1410 CE Male Houppelande à mi-jambe
Entry #GGB2021.064
Alternate Names Gown, houpelande, poun, pellanda
Year1410
Time range1400-1430
EraLate Medieval
GenderMale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesEngland, France
MakerVincent de Vere
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

The houppelande is an outermost layer of dress, which was worn by middle-to-upper classes, both men and women. It was worn over a more fitted undergarment. It is identified by volumes of fabric neatly pleated into a belt, and visually balanced by a large hat.

Additional Images of the garment:

Description:

Men wore houppelandes of varying lengths, depending on the fashion of the time and possibly the age of the wearer. This shorter version of the garments makes it a Houppelande à mi-jambe, more popular in the years following 1400 CE. 

 Sleeve style varied by region and time as well, from a straight construction to wide and open, or wide and closed again at the wrist.

Necklines and sleeves started similar to cotehardies, and varied to high buttoned collars and folded down collars. Fabrics were colorful, sometimes brocaded, and often lined to contrast. Later, the female houppelande was tightened at the sleeve, a deep V left in the neck, and became the ‘Burgundian’ gown.

Layers under the Houppelande include base layers of undershirt, braies/hosen, doublet, cotehardie and the outer houppelande

First seen in documentation in 1359 CE, the garments seem to have evolved from other outer wear such as garde-corps or herigauts, warm, billowy outer layers pulled over the head. 

This Houppelande à mi-jambe is made from budget friendly linen/rayon blend and is reversible.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen
    • silk
    • tabby and brocade patterning
  • Ornamentation:
    • embroidery
    • lined with contrasting fur

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • wool blends
    • linen
    • linen blends
    • cotton damasks
  • Ornamentation:
    • costume or fake fur
    • contrasting fabric

Ensemble Components

  • undershirt
  • doublet

  • cotehardie/cote/gown
  • braies/undergarments

Accessories

  • shoes with a point,
  • hose & garters
  • belt
  • hat

Source/Links

http://www.virtue.to/articles/circle_houp.html

http://medievalweddingdresses.ideasforweddings.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/houppelande3.jpg, http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/2482968742/in/photostream/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/2711997808/in/photostream/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/17024607@N08/2143873264, http://wp.bymymeasure.com/526/houppelande-belts-of-the-early-15th-century

Version2
date3/3/2021
Source of Period PicThames and Hudson pg 206 Statuette from the Dam chimney-piece, Amsterdam
ModelVincent De Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

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