Difficulty 1 – Page 3 – SCA Iowa Garb Guide

1000 CE Female Anglo Saxon Tunic Dress

January 18, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1000 CE Female Anglo Saxon Tunic Dress
Entry #	GGB2021.015
Alternate Names	Tunic dress, gown,
Year	1000 CE
Time range	900-1066 CE
Era	Early Medieval
Gender	female
region	Western Europe
Countries/cultures	Anglo Saxon, England
Maker	Beocca the Fair of Hastings
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

A tunic dress style outfit with accessories common to many early or pre medieval cultures. Under dress in the tunic style, and a decorated over dress.

Description:

Few representations survive of early garments and many fewer extant examples, however what does survive would support much of what is shown here.

The basic tunic style dress consisting of a linen under dress and a wool over dress featuring embroidered decoration around the neck. Worn with a wimple minus the veil (not pictured) on the head.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen for Under Layers
- Wool for outer Layer
- Linen or silk for the wimple and veil
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Some cottons
- cotton/linen blends
- linen/rayon blends
- some wool blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Under Dress
Over Tunic

Wimple and Veil

Accessories

Source/Links

Version	2
date	3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic	The National Portrait Gallery History of the Kings and Queens of England by David Williamson, ISBN 1855142287.
Model	Diana Hastings 020213-22 091413-06
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

1000 CE Male Byzantine Tunic 1

January 18, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1000 CE Male Byzantine Tunic 1
Entry #: GGB2021.026
Alternate Names:
Year: 1000 CE
Time range: 700-1083 CE
Era: Early Medieval
Gender: Male
region: Eastern Europe/Middle East
Countries/cultures: Byzantine
Maker:
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: Image examples

Intro:

Clothing from the outskirts of the Byzantine empire, multi layered and richly decorated tunic garments consisting of layers of dresses and robes

Description:

Inspired by the founding Roman cultures, Byzantine garments tended to be layers of tunics made from finely woven and often rich fabrics decorated with embroidery or appliques. Often worn with a cloak called a Chlamys

Multiple layers of rich garments would show the wealth of the individual. Fabrics were lighter and finer in weave, assuming to be linens and silks.

No additional information provided

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Fine Fabrics
- Linens
- Silks
- Solid colors embellished with embroidered decorations or appliqued shames rather than designs that were woven in
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- cottons
- linen blends
- some fine polyester/blends for silk effects, but the poly blends have many drawbacks
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

outer wide sleeved robe
under tunics of various colors

hats of various styles
shoes or slippers

Accessories

worn with roman inspired cloak called a chlamys and various hats

Source/Links

Version: 3
date: 3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic: Meister der Kahriye-Cami-Kirche in Istanbul Mosaiken der Kirche Kahrié-Djami in Istanbul, Szene: Märtyrer
Model: Donald MacDonald 020213-08
Photographer: Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1000 CE Female Norman Gown 3

January 18, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1000 CE Female Norman Gown 3
Entry #: GGB2021.019
Alternate Names: Gown, Cotte, tunic dress
Year: 1100 CE
Time range: 900-1150CE
Era: High Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Western Europe
Countries/cultures: Norman, Anglo Saxon, England, france
Maker: Sorcha O’Riain
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A common tunic dress style garment prevalent both in England as well as central Europe for the time leading up to and after the Norman invasion of 1066 CE

Description:

A common style worn by women in pre and post Norman invasion in England as well as France consisted of a tunic style underdress and over dress.

The underdress called a chemise, chainse or smock would commonly be made of linen.

The over tunic or cotte would be longer for higher status women or shorter for working class. Sleeves are shown in some painting both tight to the wrist as well as bell or trumpet sleeves. Commonly made out of wool and perhaps decorated with embroidery or the applique of contrasting fabrics.

Commonly work with this would be simple turn or bag shoes, and a head covering such as a wimple and veil.

This dress is constructed as a tunic style dress, A blue bell-sleeved over dress, or gown, worn over a green and white underdress, with a chemise under that.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Underdress – Linen, including non-flax linens
- Overdress – Wool
- Wimple/veil – Linen or silk for high status women
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Underdress – linen, linen blends, cottons
- Overdresses – Wool blends, linens, linen blends, some heaver cottons
- Wimple/Veil – linen, silk, poly (watch out for candles!)
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Underdress – below the knee, long sleeved, white or off white light fabrics
Overdress

Headwear
Shoes

Accessories

Belt
Pouch

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic: Figure of Grammatica, from the Hortus Deliciarum – 12th century
Model: Sorcha O’Riain
Photographer: Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1000 CE Female Norman Gown 2

January 18, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1000 CE Female Norman Gown 2
Entry #: GGB2021.018
Alternate Names: Gown, Cotte, tunic dress
Year: 1100 CE
Time range: 900-1150CE
Era: High Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Western Europe
Countries/cultures: Norman, Anglo Saxon, England, france
Maker: Christine Misterka
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A common tunic dress style garment prevalent both in England as well as central Europe for the time leading up to and after the Norman invasion of 1066 CE

Description:

A common style worn by women in pre and post Norman invasion in England as well as France consisted of a tunic style underdress and over dress.

The underdress called a chemise, chainse or smock would commonly be made of linen.

Commonly work with this would be simple turn or bag shoes, and a head covering such as a wimple and veil.

This dress is constructed as a tunic style dress, A blue bell-sleeved over dress, or gown, worn over a green and white underdress, with a chemise under that.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Underdress – Linen, including non-flax linens
- Overdress – Wool
- Wimple/veil – Linen or silk for high status women
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Underdress – linen, linen blends, cottons
- Overdresses – Wool blends, linens, linen blends, some heaver cottons
- Wimple/Veil – linen, silk, poly (watch out for candles!)
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Underdress – below the knee, long sleeved, white or off white light fabrics
Overdress

Headwear
Shoes

Accessories

Belt
Pouch

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic: Figure of Grammatica, from the Hortus Deliciarum – 12th century
Model: Christine Misterka
Photographer: Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle

January 18, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.032
Alternate Names	Belt
Year	1066 CE
Time range	1000-1200CE
Era	High Medieval
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a reproduction of an extant example buckle and strap end attached to a strip of leather to form a belt.

This reproduction buckle is based on an extant example and was dated to a time range in the high medieval period. It is available through several reputable vendors. It would be an example of a very inexpensive reproduction piece.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

https://armourandcastings.com/en_US/products/prjazhka-e14-2

Norman belt set, Britain, 11-12 c. For 20 mm wide belt.

Version	1
date	1/2/2022
Source of Period Pic	British Museum
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, bag shoe

January 18, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, bag shoe
Entry #	GGC2022.017
Alternate Names
Year	1000 CE
Time range	3000 BCE – 1200 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Simple slip on shoes.

Description:

Low slip on shoes that are constructed from a single piece of leather and a leather thong. Evidence of shoes much like this have been found to our knowledge, from sites ranging from 3000 BCE to 1200 CE or later. Basic shoes of this style have also been found in the archeological record across Europe.

This recreation shoe later had a stiffing sole and tread glued to the bottom to prevent the wearer from slipping at events. Although this modification is not historically correct, modifications done for personal safety and comfort are common in the SCA.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather, but oak tan/veg tan leather will work far better

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Jotunheimen shoe. Vegard Vike/Kulturhistorisk museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	The Jotunheimen shoe. Vegard Vike/Kulturhistorisk museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

1100 CE Grayfriar (Cistercian) Habit 1

January 16, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1100 CE Grayfriar (Cistercian) Habit 1
Entry #: GGB2021.032
Alternate Names: Friar Robes, monks robes
Year: 1100 CE
Time range: 1100 – end of period
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker: Vincent De Vere
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: Extant Examples

Intro:

Long belted tunic with a belt of leather, cloth or rope. A scapula, the tabard like rectangle of cloth with a cowl or hood attached.

Description:

Generally unadorned, color of the fabric denotes particular religious order the wearer belongs to. The belt could be leather but some references say rope was more common.

Over time the colors of the different orders became nearly standardized. The Benedictine Monks would dye the wool they used to make their habits leading to names such as Black Monks or Blackfriar. The Cistercian Monks who arose in the 1100’s opted for undyed wool to show their adherence to poverty. This led to names like White monks or Grayfriars. There ae still many places across England with location names of Blackfriars and Grayfriars.

This attempt at a Cistercian habit used linen instead of wool for the long tunic and brown wool for the scapula.

Any portrayal of religious personages at events should be done with respect to the beliefs of others.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen
- cotton
- linen blends
- wool blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

tunic
scapula hood

belt

Accessories

pouch

rosary

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic: Life of St. Bernard of Clairvaux by Jörg Breu the Elder 1500
Model: Vincent De Vere
Photographer: Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1100 CE Female Norman Gown 4

January 16, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1100 CE Female Norman Gown 4
Entry #: GGB2021.030
Alternate Names: Gown, Cotte,
Year: 1100 CE
Time range: 1000-1200 CE
Era: High Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Western Europe
Countries/cultures: Norman, Anglo Saxon, England, france
Maker: Elspeth Stonehaven
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A common tunic dress style garment prevalent both in England as well as central Europe for the time leading up to and after the Norman invasion of 1066 CE

Description:

A common style worn by women in pre and post Norman invasion in England as well as France consisted of a tunic style underdress and over dress.

The underdress called a chemise, chainse or smock would commonly be made of linen.

Commonly work with this would be simple turn or bag shoes, and a head covering such as a wimple and veil.

This dress is constructed as a tunic style dress, A blue bell-sleeved over dress, or gown, worn over a green and white underdress, with a chemise under that.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Underdress – Linen, including non-flax linens
- Overdress – Wool
- Wimple/veil – Linen or silk for high status women
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Underdress – linen, linen blends, cottons
- Overdresses – Wool blends, linens, linen blends, some heaver cottons
- Wimple/Veil – linen, silk, poly (watch out for candles!)
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Underdress – below the knee, long sleeved, white or off white light fabrics
Overdress

Headwear
Shoes

Accessories

Belt
Pouch

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic: Figure of Grammatica, from the Hortus Deliciarum – 12th century
Model: Elspeth Stonehaven
Photographer: Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1200 CE Female Sideless Surcote 2

January 14, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1200 CE Female Sideless Surcote 2
Entry #: GGB2021.040
Alternate Names: pellote
Year: 1200 CE
Time range: 1100-1300’s CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Female
region: European, western europe
Countries/cultures: England, france, spain
Maker: Beocca the Fair of Hastings
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: extant examples

Intro:

Outer layer garment with deeply cut arm holes worn with often form fitted undergarments that came in many variations and with examples for all sexes.

Description:

Sideless Surcotes are easily spotted by the deeply cut arm holes. They commonly expose a more fitted garment beneath such as kirtles or fitted cotes.

Parti-colored sideless surcote worn with a mantled hood.

These over dresses could vary from heraldic lesser modified cotes to heavily modified overdresses with narrow vertical front bands. Easily sewn and open for many variations and modifications. Used in many parts of Europe during the first part of the high middle ages

Variations can include constructed materials, fur trim, heraldic displays, variations of depth of armhole, width of plastron (front and back bands,) width of hem, style of fitted under dress.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Salk
- celvets
- brocades
- fine wools
- extant examples found constructed from silk damasks and jacquard
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silks
- velvets
- brocades
- fine to medium coarse wools
- wool blends
- linen and linen blends
- substituting poly velvets for silk velvets, or cotton velveteen – Not stretch velvets or crushed velvets.
Ornamentation:
- High quality fake furs for trimming and lining.

Ensemble Components

Sideless Surcote
Kirtle or cote
Underdress/undergarments

knee length hose
turn shoes or slippers
mantled hood

Accessories

belt
(worn under the surcote and over the fitted garment)

coif/hat/veil – works well with a barbette and fillet

Source/Links

http://www.wodefordhall.com/surcote.htm

http://www.bayrose.org/AandS/handouts/Sideless_Surcoat_web.pdf

Version: 2
date: 3/6/21
Source of Period Pic: http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/O0000311.html
Model: Beocca the Fair of Hastings
Photographer: Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1200 CE Female Sideless Surcote 1

January 14, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1200 CE Female Sideless Surcote 1
Entry #: GGB2021.039
Alternate Names: pellote
Year: 1200 CE
Time range: 1100-1300’s CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Female
region: European, western europe
Countries/cultures: England, france, spain
Maker: Jacqueline Storme
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: extant examples

Intro:

Outer layer garment with deeply cut arm holes worn with often form fitted undergarments that came in many variations and with examples for all sexes.

Description:

Sideless Surcotes are easily spotted by the deeply cut arm holes. They commonly expose a more fitted garment beneath such as kirtles or fitted cotes.

Parti-colored sideless surcote worn with a mantled hood.

Variations can include constructed materials, fur trim, heraldic displays, variations of depth of armhole, width of plastron (front and back bands,) width of hem, style of fitted under dress.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Salk
- celvets
- brocades
- fine wools
- extant examples found constructed from silk damasks and jacquard
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silks
- velvets
- brocades
- fine to medium coarse wools
- wool blends
- linen and linen blends
- substituting poly velvets for silk velvets, or cotton velveteen – Not stretch velvets or crushed velvets.
Ornamentation:
- High quality fake furs for trimming and lining.

Ensemble Components

Sideless Surcote
Kirtle or cote
Underdress/undergarments

knee length hose
turn shoes or slippers
mantled hood

Accessories

belt
(worn under the surcote and over the fitted garment)

coif/hat/veil – works well with a barbette and fillet

Source/Links

http://www.wodefordhall.com/surcote.htm

http://www.bayrose.org/AandS/handouts/Sideless_Surcoat_web.pdf

Version: 2
date: 3/6/21
Source of Period Pic: http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/O0000311.html
Model: Jacqueline Storme
Photographer: Jacqueline Storme