| Title: 1200 CE Female Sideless Surcote 2 | |
| Entry #: GGB2021.040 | |
| Alternate Names: pellote | |
| Year: 1200 CE | |
| Time range: 1100-1300’s CE | |
| Era: High medieval | |
| Gender: Female | |
| region: European, western europe | |
| Countries/cultures: England, france, spain | |
| Maker: Beocca the Fair of Hastings | |
| Difficulty: 1 | |
| Confidence: extant examples |
Intro:
Outer layer garment with deeply cut arm holes worn with often form fitted undergarments that came in many variations and with examples for all sexes.
Description:
Sideless Surcotes are easily spotted by the deeply cut arm holes. They commonly expose a more fitted garment beneath such as kirtles or fitted cotes.
Parti-colored sideless surcote worn with a mantled hood.
These over dresses could vary from heraldic lesser modified cotes to heavily modified overdresses with narrow vertical front bands. Easily sewn and open for many variations and modifications. Used in many parts of Europe during the first part of the high middle ages
Variations can include constructed materials, fur trim, heraldic displays, variations of depth of armhole, width of plastron (front and back bands,) width of hem, style of fitted under dress.
Inspiration Images
Common Materials
- Fabrics:
- Salk
- celvets
- brocades
- fine wools
- extant examples found constructed from silk damasks and jacquard
- Ornamentation:
Effective Substitutions
- Fabrics:
- Silks
- velvets
- brocades
- fine to medium coarse wools
- wool blends
- linen and linen blends
- substituting poly velvets for silk velvets, or cotton velveteen – Not stretch velvets or crushed velvets.
- Ornamentation:
- High quality fake furs for trimming and lining.
Ensemble Components
- Sideless Surcote
- Kirtle or cote
- Underdress/undergarments
- knee length hose
- turn shoes or slippers
- mantled hood
Accessories
- belt
- (worn under the surcote and over the fitted garment)
- coif/hat/veil – works well with a barbette and fillet
Source/Links
http://www.wodefordhall.com/surcote.htm
http://www.bayrose.org/AandS/handouts/Sideless_Surcoat_web.pdf
| Version: 2 | |
| date: 3/6/21 | |
| Source of Period Pic: http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/O0000311.html | |
| Model: Beocca the Fair of Hastings | |
| Photographer: Vincent De Vere | |
SCA Iowa Garb Guide 