Female, Full Entry

1000 CE Female Anglo Saxon Tunic Dress

Title1000 CE Female Anglo Saxon Tunic Dress
Entry #GGB2021.015
Alternate Names Tunic dress, gown,
Year1000 CE
Time range900-1066 CE
EraEarly Medieval
Genderfemale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesAnglo Saxon, England
MakerBeocca the Fair of Hastings
Difficulty1
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

A tunic dress style outfit with accessories common to many early or pre medieval cultures. Under dress in the tunic style, and a decorated over dress.

Description:

Few representations survive of early garments and many fewer extant examples, however what does survive would support much of what is shown here. 

The basic tunic style dress consisting of a linen under dress and a wool over dress featuring embroidered decoration around the neck.  Worn with a wimple minus the veil (not pictured) on the head. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Linen for Under Layers
    • Wool for outer Layer
    • Linen or silk for the wimple and veil
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Some cottons
    • cotton/linen blends
    • linen/rayon blends
    • some wool blends
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Under Dress
  • Over Tunic

  • Wimple and Veil

Accessories

Source/Links

Version2
date3/5/2021
Source of Period PicThe National Portrait Gallery History of the Kings and Queens of England by David Williamson, ISBN 1855142287.
ModelDiana Hastings 020213-22 091413-06
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1200 CE Female Sideless Surcote 2

Title: 1200 CE Female Sideless Surcote 2
Entry #: GGB2021.040
Alternate Names: pellote 
Year: 1200 CE
Time range: 1100-1300’s CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Female
region: European, western europe
Countries/cultures: England, france, spain
Maker: Beocca the Fair of Hastings
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: extant examples

Intro:

Outer layer garment with deeply cut arm holes worn with often form fitted undergarments that came in many variations and with examples for all sexes.

Description:

Sideless Surcotes are easily spotted by the deeply cut arm holes.  They commonly expose a more fitted garment beneath such as kirtles or fitted cotes. 

Parti-colored sideless surcote worn with a mantled hood.

These over dresses could vary from heraldic lesser modified cotes to heavily modified overdresses with narrow vertical front bands.  Easily sewn and open for many variations and modifications. Used in many parts of Europe during the first part of the high middle ages

Variations can include constructed materials, fur trim, heraldic displays, variations of depth of armhole, width of plastron (front and back bands,) width of hem, style of fitted under dress.

Inspiration Images

Medieval Combat Society

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Salk
    • celvets
    • brocades
    • fine wools
    • extant examples found constructed from silk damasks and jacquard
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Silks
    • velvets
    • brocades
    • fine to medium coarse wools
    • wool blends
    • linen and linen blends
    • substituting poly velvets for silk velvets, or cotton velveteen – Not stretch velvets or crushed velvets.
  • Ornamentation:
    • High quality fake furs for trimming and lining. 

Ensemble Components

  • Sideless Surcote
  • Kirtle or cote
  • Underdress/undergarments

  • knee length hose
  • turn shoes or slippers
  • mantled hood

Accessories

  • belt
  • (worn under the surcote and over the fitted garment)
  • coif/hat/veil – works well with a barbette and fillet

Source/Links

http://www.wodefordhall.com/surcote.htm

http://www.bayrose.org/AandS/handouts/Sideless_Surcoat_web.pdf

Version: 2
date: 3/6/21
Source of Period Pic: http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/O0000311.html
Model: Beocca the Fair of Hastings
Photographer: Vincent De Vere