Tag: Calontir Artisans

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Braies, Long 4 Piece

deveretallier
TitleBraies, Long 4 Piece
Entry #GGC2021.014
Alternate NamesBraies, underwear, Breeches  
YearAntiquity-end of period
Time rangeAntiquity-end of period
EraAntiquity, Bronze age, Iron Age, early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Genderunisex
regionEuropean
Countries/culturesWestern European, Central European
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty1
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

Attempt to replicate one of the simple versions of commonly seen undergarments.                      

Description:

.  

One of the many variations of the underwear seen in imagery from antiquity through to the end of the SCA period.  A common and personal garment like underwear is less likely to survive or be well represented in documentation.  There are many works of art that do represent people in undergarments and so the use of the garments can be documented and construction can be inferred.  Undergarments would nearly be universally constructed from linen.

Of the different styles of braies they vary in length, in how they are held up or how much fabric is used in their construction (ie, how baggy they are). Use of braies is often one of the later stages of refinement for SCA participants as they are rarely seen.  Wearing Braies can take some getting used to as they tend to have more fabric bunched up then we are modernly use to.

This is an attempt to replicate one of the very basic ‘boxer short’ style braies.  It is made from 4 pieces, either leg is sewn up the leg and sewn together with a square crotch gusset as well as an attached waist band.

The example is made out of linen and the braies are held up by rolling the waist band over a separate belt or cord tied around the waist..

Many illustrations of people from all levels of society survive showing people wearing undergarments but this example gives us insight to the construction technique.

The historical use of braies by women is assumed by us and use by members of the SCA is common.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • linen  

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen blends
    • Linen
    • wool
    • cotton
    • cotton blends

Ensemble Components

  • Underwear such as braies are seen through many time periods and cultures and so can be associated with many different ensembles

Accessories

Source/Links

Instructions for constructing braies like this are covered in books like Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, a very good book worth buying

source image Public Domain

http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/maciejowski_images_18.htm

Version1
date12/25/2021
Source of Period PicMaciejowski bible
Model Vincent de Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Braies, Long 2 Piece

deveretallier
TitleBraies, Long 2 Piece
Entry #GGC2021.015
Alternate NamesBraies, underwear, Breeches  
YearAntiquity-end of period
Time rangeAntiquity-end of period
EraAntiquity, Bronze age, Iron Age, early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Genderunisex
regionEuropean
Countries/culturesWestern European, Central European
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty1
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

Attempt to replicate one of the simple versions of commonly seen undergarments.                      

Description:

.  

One of the many variations of the underwear seen in imagery from antiquity through to the end of the SCA period.  A common and personal garment like underwear is less likely to survive or be well represented in documentation.  There are many works of art that do represent people in undergarments and so the use of the garments can be documented and construction can be inferred.  Undergarments would nearly be universally constructed from linen.

Of the different styles of braies they vary in length, in how they are held up or how much fabric is used in their construction (ie, how baggy they are). Use of braies is often one of the later stages of refinement for SCA participants as they are rarely seen.  Wearing Braies can take some getting used to as they tend to have more fabric bunched up then we are modernly use to.

This is an attempt to replicate one of the very basic ‘boxer short’ style braies.  It is made from 2 pieces for either side and sewn together with a single center seam.  The waistline is folded over to allow for a drawstring.

The example is made out of linen and using a shoestring for the drawstring.

Many illustrations of people from all levels of society survive showing people wearing undergarments but this example gives us insight to the construction technique. The historical use of braies by women is assumed by us and use by members of the SCA is common.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • linen  

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen blends
    • Linen
    • wool
    • cotton
    • cotton blends

Ensemble Components

  • Underwear such as braies are seen through many time periods and cultures and so can be associated with many different ensembles

Accessories

Source/Links

Instructions for constructing braies like this are covered in books like Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, a very good book worth buying

source image Public Domain

http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/maciejowski_images_18.htm

Version1
date12/25/2021
Source of Period PicMaciejowski bible
Model Vincent de Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Braies, Simple Short 3 Piece

vincentdevere
TitleBraies, Simple Short 3 Piece
Entry #GGC2021.012
Alternate NamesBraies, underwear, Breeches  
YearAntiquity-end of period
Time rangeAntiquity-end of period
EraAntiquity, Bronze age, Iron Age, early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Genderunisex
regionEuropean
Countries/culturesWestern European, Central European
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty1
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

Attempt to replicate one of the simple versions of commonly seen undergarments.                      

Description:

Many illustrations of people from all levels of society survive showing people wearing

One of the many variations of the underwear seen in imagery from antiquity through to the end of the SCA period.  A common and personal garment like underwear is less likely to survive or be well represented in documentation.  There are many works of art that do represent people in undergarments and so the use of the garments can be documented and construction can be inferred.  Undergarments would nearly be universally constructed from linen.

Of the different styles of braies they vary in length, in how they are held up or how much fabric is used in their construction (ie, how baggy they are). Use of braies is often one of the later stages of refinement for SCA participants as they are rarely seen.  Wearing Braies can take some getting used to as they tend to have more fabric bunched up then we are modernly use to.

This is an attempt to replicate one of the very basic ‘boxer short’ style braies.  It is made from 3 pieces, either leg is sewn up the leg and sewn together with a central panel between either side.  The waistline is folded over to allow for a drawstring.

The example is made out of linen and using a shoestring for the drawstring.

The historical use of braies by women is assumed by us and use by members of the SCA is common.

.  

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • linen  

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen blends
    • Linen
    • wool
    • cotton
    • cotton blends

Ensemble Components

  • Underwear such as braies are seen through many time periods and cultures and so can be associated with many different ensembles

Accessories

Source/Links

Instructions for constructing braies like this are covered in books like Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, a very good book worth buying

source image Public Domain

A loincloth in 1412 Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry

Version1
date12/25/2021
Source of Period PicA loincloth in 1412 Très Riches Heuresdu Duc de Berry
Model Vincent de Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Braies, Short 5 Piece

deveretallier
TitleBraies, Short 5 Piece
Entry #GGC2021.013
Alternate NamesBraies, underwear, Breeches  
YearAntiquity-end of period
Time rangeAntiquity-end of period
EraAntiquity, Bronze age, Iron Age, early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Genderunisex
regionEuropean
Countries/culturesWestern European, Central European
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty1
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

Attempt to replicate one of the simple versions of commonly seen undergarments.                      

Description:

Many illustrations of people from all levels of society survive showing people wearing

One of the many variations of the underwear seen in imagery from antiquity through to the end of the SCA period.  A common and personal garment like underwear is less likely to survive or be well represented in documentation.  There are many works of art that do represent people in undergarments and so the use of the garments can be documented and construction can be inferred.  Undergarments would nearly be universally constructed from linen.

Of the different styles of braies they vary in length, in how they are held up or how much fabric is used in their construction (ie, how baggy they are). Use of braies is often one of the later stages of refinement for SCA participants as they are rarely seen.  Wearing Braies can take some getting used to as they tend to have more fabric bunched up then we are modernly use to.

This is an attempt to replicate one of the very basic ‘boxer short’ style braies.  It is made from 5 pieces, either leg is sewn up the leg and sewn together with a central panel made from a front and back panel as well as bottom gusset. The waistline is folded over to allow for a drawstring.

The example is made out of linen and using a shoestring for the drawstring.

The historical use of braies by women is assumed by us and use by members of the SCA is common.

.  

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • linen  

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen blends
    • Linen
    • wool
    • cotton
    • cotton blends

Ensemble Components

  • Underwear such as braies are seen through many time periods and cultures and so can be associated with many different ensembles

Accessories

Source/Links

Instructions for constructing braies like this are covered in books like Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, a very good book worth buying

source image Public Domain

A loincloth in 1412 Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry

Version1
date12/25/2021
Source of Period PicA loincloth in 1412 Très Riches Heuresdu Duc de Berry
Model Vincent de Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Pants, Basic 2 Piece

deveretallier
TitleSCA Pants, Basic 2 Piece
Entry #GGC2021.002
Alternate NamesTrews, PJ pants,   
YearAntiquity-end of period
Time rangeAntiquity-end of period
Eraall
Genderunisex
regionall
Countries/culturesall
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty1
ConfidenceImage examples/

Intro:

A tunic and an outer layer coat associated with Norse cultures.  The front panels cross over each Simplified version of pants worn in many cultures and times periods from antiquity to the end of the SCA period     

Description:

Wool coat lined with linen decorated with a tablet woven band.  The coat is shown over a

One of the many variations of the pants seen in imagery from antiquity through to the end of the SCA period.   There are many works of art that do represent people in a variety of pants.  The garments can be documented and construction can be inferred in a variety of forms.  Many examples of surviving extant fragments were of wool.

Variations in pants include how baggy the garments are, how long they are, how wide the waistline is and how the waist is cinched closed.

This example is for a basic SCA ‘pajama pant’ constructed from a medium cotton material with a drawstring closure for the waist.  The pants are made in 2 parts with the seams sewn up the inside of either leg and then the legs are sewn together with one crotch seam.  The top of the pants are folded over to form the channel for the drawstring.  This version may be slightly tighter than how some people construct them.     

Patterns are easily generated by laying an example of a normal pajama pants that fit the person on a folded pieces of paper.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool  

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool blends
    • linen blends
    • Linen
    • wool
    • cotton
    • cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Greek vase showing Amazon wearing trousers Marie-Lan Nguyen (2007)

British Museum, CC BY 2.5 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.5&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons

Version1
date12/25/2021
Source of Period PicBritish Museum, Amazon wearing trousers
Model Vincent de Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Pants, Basic 2 Piece with feet

deveretallier
TitlePants, Basic 2 Piece with feet
Entry #GGC2021.005
Alternate NamesTrews, PJ pants,   
YearAntiquity-end of period
Time rangeAntiquity-end of period
Eraall
Genderunisex
regionall
Countries/culturesWestern European, Central European
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty1
ConfidenceTheorized Reconstruction

Intro:

Simplified version of pants worn in many cultures and times periods from antiquity to the end of the SCA period         

Description:

One of the many variations of the pants seen in imagery from antiquity through to the end of the SCA period.   There are many works of art that do represent people in a variety of pants.  The garments can be documented and construction can be inferred in a variety of forms.  Many examples of surviving extant fragments were of wool.

Variations in pants include how baggy the garments are, how long they are, how wide the waistline is and how the waist is cinched closed.

This example is for ‘pajama pants’ style pants with enclosed feet.  Constructed from a medium cotton material with a drawstring closure for the waist.  The pants are made in 2 parts with the seams sewn up the inside of either leg and then the legs are sewn together with one crotch seam.  The top of the pants are folded over to form the channel for the drawstring.  This version may be slightly tighter than how some people construct them.     

Enclosing the feet allows for pants like this to be a simplified replacement for hosen, joined hosen or some of the other enclosed pants.  Although probably an oversimplification, it is an easily constructed garment and can serve as a placeholder until one learns to ‘drape’ a pattern for hosen. Patterns are easily generated by laying an example of a normal pajama pants that fit the person on a folded pieces of paper. The pants are sewn long and the parts extending over the feet are pinned, resewn and trimmed until they fit.  Care must be taken to leave the pants loose enough to pull over the feet. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool  

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool blends
    • linen blends
    • Linen
    • wool
    • cotton
    • cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Greek vase showing Amazon wearing trousers Marie-Lan Nguyen (2007)

British Museum, CC BY 2.5 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.5&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons

Version1
date12/25/2021
Source of Period PicBritish Museum, Amazon wearing trousers
Model Vincent de Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Female, Full Entry

27 CE Female Roman Ionic Chiton/Tunica 2

deveretallier
Title27 CE Female Roman Ionic Chiton/Tunica 2
Entry #GGB2021.0002
Alternate NamesTunica, ionic chiton, tunica matron,
Year270CE
Time range27 – 400 CE
EraRoman Empire
GenderFemale
regionEurope
Countries/culturesEurope
MakerIulia Kaloetina Eirenikina
Difficulty1
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

This basic garment, sometimes called an ionic chiton, could work for either a Grecian chiton or a lower class roman tunica.  Two pieces of fabric sewn at the sides and tacked at the sleeves.

Description:

These are light and cool and fast to make.  The chiton is very much like a tunic. There are versions done with a single piece of fabric folded and tacked along to the top in a number of places or it can be done as two large rectangles of fabric that are sewn down the sides and tacked a few places along the top.  Using a rope it can be cinched in at the waist.  The palla can just be wrapped around and held.  Sandals that work to complete the outfit can be found in modern shoe stores.  Romans also had a variety of jewelry that can be made or purchased from retailers selling recreations or by modifying some modern costume jewelry.

There is a distinct variation between the Doric and Ionic chitons, as well as the roman woman’s tunic, it will not be entered into here but all of the dresses serve as easy and fast warm weather garb.

Further distinctions can be made between earlier Greek and later Roman clothing.  It will not be discussed here.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool
    • linen
    • silk. 
    • The wools used would have been very fine wools that are sometimes hard to find now.
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Avoid polyester, polyester blends. 
    • Linen
    • linen blends
    • cotton
      • The cotton broadcloths (the cheap cottons that fill Walmart and the quilting fabric stores) are weak fabrics that don’t last long and never look quite right.  They never drape and lay the way the period images show. 
    • silk
      • silk like poly will be uncomfortable in the heat. 
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Chiton/Tunic
  • Palla
  • belt or cording

  • sandals
  • jewelry
  • Stola

Accessories

  • “Roman” sandals are still sold today and work for starter garb. 
  • Belts can range from ropes to modern fashion chain belts. 
  • Many examples of roman jewelry are not complex and can be made easily.   There are some styles that look very similar to modern costume jewelry.

Source/Links

https://titarufiaprisca.wordpress.com/2011/03/16/on-making-roman-clothing/

http://www.fashion-era.com/ancient_costume/ancient-greek-dress-chiton.htm

https://titarufiaprisca.wordpress.com/2011/03/16/on-making-roman-clothing/

https://vestificasericata.wordpress.com/documentation/

https://www.getting-my-medieval-on.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/romanwomensgarb-arriamarina.pdf

https://romanasum.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/intro-to-roman-clothing4.pdf

https://www.getting-my-medieval-on.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/romanwomensgarb-arriamarina.pdf

Version2
date3/6/2021
Source of Period PicThe Charioteer of Delphi, 470s B.C. Bronze. Delphi Museum, Greece.
ModelIulia Kaloetina Eirenikina 082413-09
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Male

Damendorf Trousers 1

deveretallier
TitleDamendorf Trousers 1
Entry #GGC2021.007
Alternate NamesTrews, PJ pants, hose   
Year100-300 CE
Time range100-300 CE
EraIron Age
Genderunisex
regionEuropean
Countries/culturesGermany, Western European, Central European
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty2
ConfidenceExtant Example

Intro:

Modified example of trousers found in a bog in Germany with a tailored construction and attached feet              

Description:

An extant example of trousers found in a bog near Damendorf, Rendsburg Eckerförde, Germany dated from between 100’s and 300’s CE. 

This style of pants are more complicated than the regular SCA ‘poofy pants’ that many people start out with.  There are some places online where the patterns can be found or even purchased.  This pattern has been modified from the extant example by leaving the two triangular gussets connected to the back panel.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool  

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool blends
    • linen blends
    • Linen
    • wool
    • cotton
    • cotton blends

Ensemble Components

The Damendorf Man was found with leather shoes, leg wraps and a leather belt.  This would also likely go with one or more tunics

Accessories

  • The Damendorf Man was found with leather shoes, leg wraps and a leather belt

Source/Links

. Archäologisches Landesmuseum Schloss Gottorf in Schleswig. Photo by by Andreas Franzkowiak

Version1
date12/25/2021
Source of Period Pic. Archäologisches Landesmuseum Schloss Gottorf in Schleswig. Photo by by Andreas Franzkowiak
Model Vincent de Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Female, Full Entry

27 CE Female Roman Chiton and Palla

deveretallier
Title27 CE Female Roman Chiton and Palla
Entry #GGB2021.0001
Alternate Names Chiton, Palla
Year270CE
Time range27 – 400 CE
EraRoman Empire
GenderFemale
regionEurope
Countries/culturesEurope
MakerAnna Plentyn
Difficulty1
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

This consists of one piece or two pieces of fabric sewn at the sides and tacked at the top to form the tunic like chiton and a piece of fabric wrapped around as the palla. These are great beginner garb for hot weather

Description:

These are light and cool and fast to make.  The chiton is very much like a tunic. There are versions done with a single piece of fabric folded and tacked along to the top in a number of places or it can be done as two large rectangles of fabric that are sewn down the sides and tacked a few places along the top.  Using a rope it can be cinched in at the waist.  The palla can just be wrapped around and held.  Sandals that work to complete the outfit can be found in modern shoe stores.  Romans also had a variety of jewelry that can be made or purchased from retailers selling recreations or by modifying some modern costume jewelry.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Most lower class garments in roman times were wool, but finding the right weights and weaves of wool now is hard. 
    • Upper classes would have some silks.
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Avoid polyester, polyester blends. 
    • Cottons can work. 
    • Linens are good. 
    • Very light and fine wools may be very accurate, but harder to find.
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Chiton
  • Palla
  • belt

  • sandals
  • jewelry

Accessories

  • “Roman” sandals are still sold today and work for starter garb. 
  • Belts can range from ropes to modern fashion chain belts. 
  • Many examples of roman jewelry are not complex and can be made easily.   There are some styles that look very similar to modern costume jewelry.

Source/Links

https://titarufiaprisca.wordpress.com/2011/03/16/on-making-roman-clothing/

http://www.fashion-era.com/ancient_costume/ancient-greek-dress-chiton.htm

https://titarufiaprisca.wordpress.com/2011/03/16/on-making-roman-clothing/

https://vestificasericata.wordpress.com/documentation/

https://www.getting-my-medieval-on.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/romanwomensgarb-arriamarina.pdf

https://romanasum.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/intro-to-roman-clothing4.pdf

https://www.getting-my-medieval-on.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/romanwomensgarb-arriamarina.pdf

Version2
date3/6/2021
Source of Period PicStatue of Livia Drusilla wearing a stola and palla
ModelAnna Plentyn 031113-13
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Female, Full Entry

500 CE Female Byzantine Tunica and Delmatica

deveretallier
Title500 CE Female Byzantine Tunica and Delmatica
Entry #GGB2021.0004
Alternate Names Female byzantine court dress
Year500 CE
Time range500-700 CE
EraEarly medieval
GenderFemale
regionEastern Europe, middle east
Countries/culturesByzantine
MakerKonstantia Kaloethina
Difficulty2
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

Court garb, multi layered and richly decorated garment consisting of layers of dresses and robes as well as a decorated collar.

Description:

Essentially wide sleeved tunics and robes, made from rich fabrics and decorated with embroidered embellishments.

Multiple layers of rich garments would show the wealth of the individual.  Fabrics were lighter and finer in weave, assuming to be linens and silks.  

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Fine fabrics
    • linens
    • silks
    • solid colors embellished with embroidered decorations or appliqued shames rather than designs that were woven in
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • cottons
    • linen blends
    • some fine poly’s for silk effects, but the poly blends have many drawbacks,
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • outer wide sleeved robe
  • under tunics of various colors

  • shoes or slippers

Accessories

  • worn with roman inspired cloak called a chlamys
  • various hats

Source/Links

Version2
date3/6/2021
Source of Period PicPetar Milošević photo of Theodora (San Vitale) Ravenna, Italy
ModelKonstantia Kaloethina 032313-5
PhotographerVincent De Vere