1500 – Page 3 – SCA Iowa Garb Guide

1250 CE Franciscan Friar monk Habit 1

January 14, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

1250 CE Franciscan Friar monk Habit 1
Entry #: GGB2021.043
Alternate Names: Friar Robes, monks robes
Year: 1250
Time range: 1250 – end of period
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker: Ida Lundy
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: Extant Examples

Intro:

Long belted tunic with a belt of leather, cloth or rope. A scapula, the tabard like rectangle of cloth with a cowl or hood attached.

Description:

Generally unadorned, color of the fabric denotes particular religious order the wearer belongs to. The belt could be leather but some references say rope was more common.

Over time the colors of the different orders became nearly standardized. The Benedictine Monks would dye the wool they used to make their habits leading to names such as Black Monks or Blackfriar. The Cistercian Monks who arose in the 1100’s opted for undyed wool to show their adherence to poverty. This led to names like White monks or Grayfriars. There ae still many places across England with location names of Blackfriars and Grayfriars.

This attempt at a Franciscan habit wool blend for the long tunic and brown wool for the hooded mantle. Franciscan order arose shortly after the Cistercian order.

Any portrayal of religious personages at events should be done with respect to the beliefs of others.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen
- cotton
- linen blends
- wool blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

tunic
scapula hood

belt

Accessories

pouch

rosary

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic: Life of St. Bernard of Clairvaux by Jörg Breu the Elder 1500
Model: Vincent De Vere
Photographer: Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on punched turn shoe 1

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, slip-on punched turn shoe 1
Entry #	GGC2022.019
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes with punched out decorations

Description:

Low slip on shoes that are constructed from 2 pieces of leather. They are sewn inside out and then turned right side out, thus the common name of turn shoes. Shoes like these, in one form or another, have been used throughout the period covered by the SCA

This pair of shoes is decorated by having a pattern of holes punched into the leather before assembling the shoe. Shoes decorated with punch decorations have survived dating back to Roman times. Sets of shaped punches can be purchased online for not much and the punching of the leather adds less than an hour to the total construction time.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather doesn’t shape and form that way oak tan/veg tan leather will.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons, Kulturhistorisk Museum, Oslo, Norway. Medieval Exhibition
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on low turn shoe 1

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, slip-on low turn shoe 1
Entry #	GGC2022.016
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes.

Description:

This pair of shoes had a stiffening sole and tread glued to the shoe after construction. Although this is a modern consideration, it was done for additional comfort and safety for use at events. Accommodations like this are common in the SCA.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather doesn’t shape and form that way oak tan/veg tan leather will.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, punched simplified shoe 2

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, punched simplified shoe 2
Entry #	GGC2022.021
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes with punched out decorations

Description:

Low slip on shoes that are constructed from 2 pieces of leather. This simplified shoe construction doesn’t require the shoe to be turned inside out after constructing and it looks much like a turn shoe when worn. Shoes like these, in one form or another, have been used throughout the period covered by the SCA

This simplified construction technique doesn’t actually produce a turn shoe and can produce a shoe much like the turn shoe and can use chrome tanned leather.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- This modification can work with chrome tanned leather. Oak tan/veg tan leather will work better.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons, Kulturhistorisk Museum, Oslo, Norway. Medieval Exhibition
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on simplified shoe 2

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, slip-on simplified shoe 2
Entry #	GGC2022.020
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on shoes.

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather can be used with this simplified shoe. Oak tan/veg tan leather will work better.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Simple Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle

January 9, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Simple Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.031
Alternate Names	Belt
Year	1350
Time range	Antiquity to end of period
Era	Antiquity to end of period
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a modern buckle taken from a worn out belt and attached to a strip of leather to form a belt. This easily made belt works very well for people new to the SCA.

This reproduction buckle is based an extant example dated to arround 1350 CE, but is very similar to many others from different time periods. It is available through several reputable vendors. It would be an example of a very inexpensive reproduction piece.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Version	1
date	1/2/2022
Source of Period Pic	British Museum
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Basic Entry, Female

1480 CE Female Italian Gown

January 5, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1480 CE Female Italian Gown
Entry #	GGB2021.070
Alternate Names
Year	1480
Time range	1480-1510
Era	Late Medieval, Italian Renaissance
Gender	Female
region	Southern Europe
Countries/cultures	Italy
Maker	Elena del Mar
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Basic Italian Gown/ Northern Italian

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version	2
date	3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic
Model	Elena del Mar
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 1

January 5, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 1
Entry #	GGB2021.067
Alternate Names	V neck gown, gown
Year	1450
Time range	1450-1500
Era	Late Medieval
Gender	Female
region	Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	France
Maker	Jehanne Bening
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

“A” shaped dress with “V” shaped neckline, fitted in the torso and spreading widely, often with train from the waist. Wide belt at waist. Worn over fitted kirtle.

Description:

One of the garments that there are many image examples for as this is a time of many surviving artworks. A style of dress seen in many Flemish paintings that show a common set of features including fitted torso with deeply plunging neckline and collar with contrasting fabric or fur lining. The deep neckline displayed an under placket or partlet or kirtle, some displayed without. Sleeves often shown with lined cuffs that are rolled back on the sleeve. Most show no seam at waist or a wide belt covering any such seam. More examples of images showing the waist seam appear closer to 1500CE. Many are displayed as being lined

Under layers would commonly include a shift, slip or some form of underdress, covered by a fitted kirtle and then covered by the gown.

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.

This is a more simple form of the dress and worn on a warmer day. The under layers are simplified and the dress is not as full. Made out of brocaded cotton fabric with a black velvet collar and the red placket exposed by the neckline.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Gown –
  - wools,
  - finely woven wools,
  - brocaded or patterned cloths. Rich textiles,
  - collars featuring velvets and furs.
  - Fur trim
- Kirtle –
  - wool
  - linen
- Underclothes
  - linen
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Gown
  - Some cottons
  - linens
  - Linen blends wool blends
  - brocades
  - some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns.
- Kirtle
  - Linen and linen blends
  - some cottons to lighten the under layers
- Underclothes
  - Linen
  - Linen blends
  - cottons
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Under layers – shift/slip or some form of underdress
gown.

fitted kirtle

Accessories

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.

This is the time of the Henin hat that becomes the stereotypical ‘princess’ hat, various low shoes or slippers, pouches or purses.

Source/Links

http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-gown.html

https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/06/02/how-to-make-a-kirtle-and-a-burgundian-gown/

https://dawnsdressdiary.wordpress.com/2018/01/25/burgundian-v-neck-gown-research/

Version	2
date	3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic	The Whore of Babylon. 1470. Pierpont Morgan MS M.68. Saint Catherine converting the Scholars. Walters Art Museum 37.2487.
Model	Jehanne Bening
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 2

January 5, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 2
Entry #	GGB2021.068
Alternate Names	V neck gown, gown
Year	1450
Time range	1450-1500
Era	Late Medieval
Gender	Female
region	Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	France
Maker	Vincent de Vere
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

“A” shaped dress with “V” shaped neckline, fitted in the torso and spreading widely, often with train from the waist. Wide belt at waist. Worn over fitted kirtle.

Additional Images of the completed garment:

Description:

Under layers would commonly include a shift, slip or some form of underdress, covered by a fitted kirtle and then covered by the gown.

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.

This dress is poly cotton blend brocade with cotton velvet collar and cuffs, red linen kirtle, white linen shift. A yellow silk placket covers most of the red kirtle at the plunging neckline

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Gown –
  - wools,
  - finely woven wools,
  - brocaded or patterned cloths. Rich textiles,
  - collars featuring velvets and furs.
  - Fur trim
- Kirtle –
  - wool
  - linen
- Underclothes
  - linen
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Gown
  - Some cottons
  - linens
  - Linen blends wool blends
  - brocades
  - some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns.
- Kirtle
  - Linen and linen blends
  - some cottons to lighten the under layers
- Underclothes
  - Linen
  - Linen blends
  - cottons
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Under layers – shift/slip or some form of underdress
gown.

fitted kirtle

Accessories

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.

This is the time of the Henin hat that becomes the stereotypical ‘princess’ hat, various low shoes or slippers, pouches or purses.

Source/Links

http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-gown.html

https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/06/02/how-to-make-a-kirtle-and-a-burgundian-gown/

https://dawnsdressdiary.wordpress.com/2018/01/25/burgundian-v-neck-gown-research/

Version	2
date	3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic	The Whore of Babylon. 1470. Pierpont Morgan MS M.68. Saint Catherine converting the Scholars. Walters Art Museum 37.2487.
Model	Kristen Wereszynski
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1490 CE German Female Housebook Dress

January 5, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1490 CE German Female Housebook Dress
Entry #	GGB2021.071
Alternate Names
Year	1490
Time range	1480-1500
Era	Late medieval
Gender	Female
region	Central europe
Countries/cultures	Germany
Maker	Amira bint Timurhan
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Dress with front and back pleated section. Most often portrayed in the a book of engravings by the Master of the Housebook.

Description:

This dress is commonly known as a housebook dress because it was frequently portrayed in a book of engravings called the Housebook. It is a dress with pleated inset in both front and back with fall into the fullness of the skirt. The haub is a pleated rectangle of fabric (I use linen) which is wound about the head to produce is shape. The tail of the haub can be tucked back into it, wound around your neck and simply left to hang.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Gown – wools, finely woven wools, brocaded or patterned cloths. Rich textiles, collars featuring velvets and furs. Fur trim
- Kirtle – wools lined in linen
- Underclothes – Linen
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Gown – Some cottons, linens, Linen blends wool blends, brocades, some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns.
- Kirtle – Linen and linen blends, some cottons to lighten the under layers
- Underclothes – Linen, linen blends, cottons
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Haube
chemise
hosen

pointed shoes
housebook dress

Accessories

thin leather belt
mantle (short cloak)
schaube (heavy long coat)

purse
apron

Source/Links

http://myra.hem.nu/costume/images/HousebookMaster/LL%28FiledtKoko1985%29/MH.StCatherine%28LLcat47%29.jpg

http://craftyagatha.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/pleat-detail3.png (detail of back pleats) http://employees.oneonta.edu/farberas/arth/Images/ARTH_214images/prints/housebook_aristotle_and_phyllis.jpg

http://myra.hem.nu/costume/Documentation/Documentation.htm

Version	2
date	3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic	https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Durer,_Portrait_of_a_Young_F%C3%BCrleger_with_Her_Hair_Done_Up.jpg
Model	Amira bint Timurhan
Photographer	Vincent De Vere