Male – Page 2 – SCA Iowa Garb Guide

Damendorf Trousers 1

January 27, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Damendorf Trousers 1
Entry #	GGC2021.007
Alternate Names	Trews, PJ pants, hose
Year	100-300 CE
Time range	100-300 CE
Era	Iron Age
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Germany, Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Modified example of trousers found in a bog in Germany with a tailored construction and attached feet

Description:

An extant example of trousers found in a bog near Damendorf, Rendsburg Eckerförde, Germany dated from between 100’s and 300’s CE.

This style of pants are more complicated than the regular SCA ‘poofy pants’ that many people start out with. There are some places online where the patterns can be found or even purchased. This pattern has been modified from the extant example by leaving the two triangular gussets connected to the back panel.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Wool blends
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

The Damendorf Man was found with leather shoes, leg wraps and a leather belt. This would also likely go with one or more tunics

Accessories

The Damendorf Man was found with leather shoes, leg wraps and a leather belt

Source/Links

. Archäologisches Landesmuseum Schloss Gottorf in Schleswig. Photo by by Andreas Franzkowiak

Version	1
date	12/25/2021
Source of Period Pic	. Archäologisches Landesmuseum Schloss Gottorf in Schleswig. Photo by by Andreas Franzkowiak
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

600 CE Norse Klappenrock over Tunic

January 22, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	600 CE Norse Klappenrock over Tunic
Entry #	GGB2021.0005
Alternate Names	Klappenrock, warriors coat, Viking coat
Year	600 CE
Time range	600 – 900 CE
Era	Early medieval
Gender	Male
region	Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	Norse, Viking
Maker	Vincent De Vere, Kristine nic Tallieur
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Image examples/ fragmentary evidence

Intro:

A tunic and an outer layer coat associated with Norse cultures. The front panels cross over each other and the coat is held closed with a belt. Often trimmed with tablet woven trim and possibly fur.

Description:

Wool coat lined with linen decorated with a tablet woven band. The coat is shown over a Bocksten style tunic and under tunic. Often associated with fragments found in Haithabu

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool 2/2 twill
- cross twill
- diamond twill
- herringbone twill
- wool that could be lined with will or linen.
Ornamentation:
- Tablet woven trim in wool, linen, or silk. Possibly brocaded with metal.
- Embroidery

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Wool blends
- linen blends
Ornamentation:
- Appropriately patterned commercially woven trim
- Inkle-woven Trim
- Tablet woven trim
- Cotton or poly thread

Ensemble Components

Birka style coat
Bocksten cut tunic
Bocksten cut under tunic

Pants
Shoes

Accessories

Belt
pouch

Simple Hat
leg wraps

Source/Links

https://sites.google.com/site/archoevidence/home/viking-clothing-guides

Version	2
date	2/21/2021
Source of Period Pic	Sutton Hoo Helm decoration, British museum
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

800 CE Male Anglo Saxon Tunic

January 20, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	800 CE Male Anglo Saxon Tunic
Entry #	GGB2021.0007
Alternate Names	tunic, over tunic
Year	800 CE
Time range	500-900 CE
Era	Early Medieval
Gender	Male
region	Western Europe
Countries/cultures	England
Maker	Richard of Wolfwood
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

A tunic style outfit with accessories common to many early or pre medieval cultures. Under tunic, over tunic, pants with leg wraps, turn shoes and a mantled hood

Description:

Few representations survive of early garments and many fewer extant examples, however what does survive would support much of what is shown here.

The fabric shows woven in patterns that existed across Western Europe in the centuries before 1000 CE. The basic style of layers of tunics and pants continued from before the centuries of the Roman influence to the age of Norman England.

A base layer of a linen under tunic may have been worn below the long sleeved wool tunic and the wool outer tunic. This example was made from Linen for use during warm summer events.

The pants made from striped linen cloth would have been wool in period. The leg wraps are made from strips of wool fabric but are often woven as narrow bands. These are also know and winingas. The shoes are an early style of turn shoe.

The hood has a wide mantle and is made from light wool. The amber would have been a common item traded from Eastern Europe.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- linen
- wool
Ornamentation:
- Embroidery
- Tablet woven bands

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- cotton
- cotton-linen
- linen-rayon
- wool blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Under tunic
Over Tunic

Pants
Hood

Accessories

Belt
Leg Wraps

Pouch
Turn Shoes

Source/Links

https://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/viktunic.html

Version	2
date	3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic	Originally from MS 183, f.1v at Corpus Christi College, Cambridge
Model	Richard Jones 020213-19
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

900 CE Male Norse Tunic

January 19, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	900 CE Male Norse Tunic
Entry #	GGB2021.0009
Alternate Names	T Tunic, Lendbreen tunic
Year	900 CE
Time range	600-1000 CE
Era	Early Medieval
Gender	Male
region	Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	Northern Europe
Maker
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Tunic, pants, leg wraps used in many northern European areas for a wide time frame in the early medieval era

Description:

Linen under tunic Wool tunic with woven trim at wrists, pants tied with a drawstring at the waist, wool leg wraps, Norse style boots, belt and pouch.

Many of the male garments from across northern Europe through the early middles ages share many similarities.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- linen
- wool
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- cotton
- cotton-linen
- linen-rayon
- wool blends
- Scrub pants can be used for pants. Strips of cloth can be used for leg wraps. Various boots and shoes can be used if they do not stand out too much.
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Under tunic
Over Tunic

Pants
Hood

Accessories

Belt
Leg Wraps
jewelry

Pouch
Turn Shoes
knife

Source/Links

https://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/viktunic.html

https://www.medievalists.net/2014/11/early-medieval-tunic-recreated-norway/

Version	2
date	3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic	https://www.medievalists.net/2014/11/early-medieval-tunic-recreated-norway/
Model	Bjarki Vikarason 031513-02
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

900 CE Anglo Saxon Tunic

January 19, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	900 CE Anglo Saxon Tunic
Entry #	GGB2021.0008
Alternate Names	tunic, over tunic
Year	900 CE
Time range	500-900 CE
Era	Early Medieval
Gender	Male
region	Western Europe, Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	England
Maker	Elspeth of Stonehaven
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

A tunic style outfit with accessories common to many early or pre medieval cultures. Under tunic, over tunic, pants with leg wraps, turn shoes and a mantled hood

Description:

Few representations survive of early garments and many fewer extant examples, however what does survive would support much of what is shown here.

A base layer of a linen under tunic may have been worn below the long sleeved wool tunic and the wool outer tunic. This example was made from Linen for use during warm summer events.

The pants made heavy cotton cloth would have been wool in period.

The over tunic is decorated with embroidery

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- linen
- wool
Ornamentation:
- Embroidery
- Tablet woven bands

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- cotton
- cotton-linen
- linen-rayon
- wool blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Under tunic
Over Tunic

Pants
Hood

Accessories

Belt
Leg Wraps

Pouch
Turn Shoes

Source/Links

Version	2
date	3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic	Bayeux tapestry
Model	Tola Rufusdóhtor 020213-24
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Hose Linen 1

January 18, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Hose Linen 1
Entry #	GGC2021.008
Alternate Names	separate hose, split hose, hose, hosen, stocking, chausses
Year	1000-1500 CE
Time range	1000-1500 CE
Era	early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Examples of split hose sewn from linen and tied to the breech garter at the waist.

Description:

This is an example of split hose made out of linen and parti-colored. They have enclosed feet and a hole at the side to tie to a belt or girdle. They may commonly be seen with a garter tied just below the knee to assist in keeping the hose from slipping. The garter may be a tied woven band or a band with a buckle.

There is evidence supporting the use of some form of split hose stretching to early medieval times with their height in high medieval times. By the 1300’s the split hose were beginning to be less fashionable and were replaced by joined hose, however split hose continued to be used until the end of period.

The longer forms of the split hose may be associated with male fashion and the short hose with women and children, but people likely wore what they preferred as well as what matched their needs.

The best hose is made out of light wool fabric that has some spring to the weave and cut on the bias (diagonally.) although very wasteful of the fabric, the bias cut means that the resulting hose are slightly more elastic and fit better.

The historical use of various kinds of hose by women is assumed by us and use by members does occur.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends
- Wool blends

Ensemble Components

Hosen were worn by many different cultures and time periods and by many levels of society. Closely associated with the hosen are the Braies worn under the hosen and the girdle or belt used to hold them up as well as the garters to keep them from slipping worn just below the knee.

Accessories

Garters or woven material tied or a belt style garter. Girdle belt or belt worn at the waist and tied to the hosen to keep them up

Source/Links

http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/maciejowski_images_18.htm

Version	1
date	12/25/2021
Source of Period Pic	maciejowski bible
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Hose wool 1

January 18, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Hose wool 1
Entry #	GGC2021.009
Alternate Names	separate hose, split hose, hose, hosen, stocking, chausses
Year	1000-1500 CE
Time range	1000-1500 CE
Era	early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Examples of split hose sewn from linen and tied to the breech garter at the waist.

Description:

This is an example of split hose made out of wool. They have enclosed feet and a hole at the side to tie to a belt or girdle. They may commonly be seen with a garter tied just below the knee to assist in keeping the hose from slipping. The garter may be a tied woven band or a band with a buckle.

The longer forms of the split hose may be associated with male fashion and the short hose with women and children, but people likely wore what they preferred as well as what matched their needs.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends
- Wool blends

Ensemble Components

Hosen were worn by many different cultures and time periods and by many levels of society. Closely associated with the hosen are the Braies worn under the hosen and the girdle or belt used to hold them up as well as the garters to keep them from slipping worn just below the knee.

Accessories

Garters or woven material tied or a belt style garter. Girdle belt or belt worn at the waist and tied to the hosen to keep them up

Source/Links

http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/maciejowski_images_18.htm

Version	1
date	12/30/2021
Source of Period Pic	maciejowski bible
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Apron, gathered

January 18, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Apron, gathered
Entry #	GGC2021.016
Alternate Names	Apron
Year	1000-1600 CE
Time range	1000-1600 CE
Era	early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Basic gathered apron made from one yard of linen fabric

Description:

This apron is made from three pieces with two long narrow strips sewn into the waistband and one large rectangle gathered along the waistband to form the main portion of the apron.

Aprons are easily constructed accessories that are also functional accessories to use with your SCA clothing. They can easily be made in a few minutes by machine or just a couple hours by hand. They add to the completeness of an ensemble by adding another layer to the look. They are also very functional in protecting the clothing beneath it.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

c 1300-c 1340, The Decretals of Gregory IX, edited by Raymund of Penyafort (or Peñafort); with the glossa ordinaria of Bernard of Parma in the margin.

Version	1
date	12/30/2021
Source of Period Pic	British Library
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Coif, 2 piece

January 18, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Coif, 2 piece
Entry #	GGC2021.003
Alternate Names	Coif
Year	1000-1600 CE
Time range	1000-1600 CE
Era	High Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Germany, Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Head covering made from small scraps of linen fabric.

Description:

It’s underwear for your head. Many images of the middle ages feature people wearing coifs to cover and protect their hair, oils from their head from their hats and for something to connect hats to. They also are an easy accessory to add to your

These are very simple to construct either by machine or by hand and take very little fabric. They are easily made from cotton fabric or linen and there are surviving examples and images that show a number of variations through time or cultures.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Illustration from Cantigas de Santa Maria manuscript. The Cantigas de Santa Maria (Songs to the Virgin Mary) are manuscripts written in Galician-Portuguese, with music notation, during the reign of Alfonso X El Sabio (1221-1284).

Version	1
date	12/30/2021
Source of Period Pic	British Library
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Coif, 3 piece

January 18, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Coif, 3 piece
Entry #	GGC2021.004
Alternate Names	Coif
Year	1000-1600 CE
Time range	1000-1600 CE
Era	High Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Germany, Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Head covering made from small scraps of linen fabric.

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version	1
date	12/30/2021
Source of Period Pic	British Library
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere