Category: Full Entry

Female, Full Entry

900 CE Norse Hangerok 2

deveretallier
Title900 CE Norse Hangerok 2
Entry #GGB2021.011
Alternate Names Apron Dress, Smokkr
Year900 CE
Time range900-1000 CE
EraEarly medieval
Genderfemale
regionNorthern Europe
Countries/culturesNorse, Viking,
MakerGyda Glora
Difficulty1
ConfidenceSpeculative reconstruction

Intro:

A tunic dress under layer with an apron like over dress with shoulder straps pinned in place with distinctive brooch pins.  Remains of decorative trim sometimes found on the top band of the dress.   Often accessorized with beads and metal accessories. There are several theorized construction techniques.  No current supportive evidence for belts. 

Description:

Red wool over dress torn over a tan linen under dress.  The sort sleeves of the underdress pictured were due to a modern adaptation of the style for use in very hot weather.  Current theory would suggest long sleeve underdress.

They are an overdress worn over a tunic-like under dress.  They generally take the shape of a tube or flared tube with broaches that connect shoulder straps to the front of the over dress.  The grave finds have shown general construction of wool and some linen with variation in color, finishing and decoration.  There are many fabulous resources online to research this easy to construct garment

Current research suggests that the general style of apron dress may have been used across Norse cultures with regional variations.  Local and regional differences may have led to many variations on the theme.

 There is scant evidence from the grave finds due to excessive decomposition of the fabrics.  These still seem to be dresses of a debatable authenticity.  This has led to some of the different interpretations that are found on line.

Based on the articles I have read at this time I will side with the argument that this is a general category of garment that saw variations based on region, culture and time period.  They can be grouped together as a style due to specific traits in common. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen
  • Ornamentation:
    • tablet woven decorations
    • embroidery
    • Silk or linen strips or threads

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen
    • linen blends
    • cotton
    • wool blends
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Hangeroc (apron overdress)
  • underdress

  • Coat/Kaftan

Accessories

  • strands of beads
    • glass or amber
  • Small tools (scissors, needle case, ear spoons, etc)
  • Brooches

Source/Links

Raymonds Quiet Press – source for reproduction broaches

https://raymonds-quiet-press.myshopify.com/

http://urd.priv.no/viking/smokkr.html

http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html

Version2
date2/21/2021
Source of Period Pichttp://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html
ModelGyda Glora 082413-07
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Female, Full Entry

900 CE Norse Hangerok 1

deveretallier
Title900 CE Norse Hangerok 1
Entry #GGB2021.010
Alternate Names Apron Dress, Smokkr
Year900 CE
Time range900-1000 CE
EraEarly medieval
Genderfemale
regionNorthern Europe
Countries/culturesNorse, Viking,
MakerVasilla Krasnaia
Difficulty2
ConfidenceSpeculative reconstruction

Intro:

A tunic dress under layer with an apron like over dress with shoulder straps pinned in place with distinctive brooch pins.  Remains of decorative trim sometimes found on the top band of the dress.   Often accessorized with beads and metal accessories. There are several theorized construction techniques.  No current supportive evidence for belts. 

Description:

Red wool over dress torn over a tan linen under dress.  The sort sleeves of the underdress pictured were due to a modern adaptation of the style for use in very hot weather.  Current theory would suggest long sleeve underdress.

They are an overdress worn over a tunic-like under dress.  They generally take the shape of a tube or flared tube with broaches that connect shoulder straps to the front of the over dress.  The grave finds have shown general construction of wool and some linen with variation in color, finishing and decoration.  There are many fabulous resources online to research this easy to construct garment

Current research suggests that the general style of apron dress may have been used across Norse cultures with regional variations.  Local and regional differences may have led to many variations on the theme.

 There is scant evidence from the grave finds due to excessive decomposition of the fabrics.  These still seem to be dresses of a debatable authenticity.  This has led to some of the different interpretations that are found on line.

Based on the articles I have read at this time I will side with the argument that this is a general category of garment that saw variations based on region, culture and time period.  They can be grouped together as a style due to specific traits in common. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen
  • Ornamentation:
    • tablet woven decorations
    • embroidery
    • Silk or linen strips or threads

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen
    • linen blends
    • cotton
    • wool blends
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Hangeroc (apron overdress)
  • underdress

  • Coat/Kaftan

Accessories

  • strands of beads
    • glass or amber
  • Small tools (scissors, needle case, ear spoons, etc)
  • Brooches

Source/Links

Raymonds Quiet Press – source for reproduction broaches

https://raymonds-quiet-press.myshopify.com/

http://urd.priv.no/viking/smokkr.html

http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html

Version2
date2/21/2021
Source of Period Pichttp://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html
ModelVasilla Krasnaia 082413-06
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

1000 CE Norman Riding Tunic 2

deveretallier
Title: 1000 CE Norman Riding Tunic 2
Entry #: GGB2021.028
Alternate Names: tunic, t tunic 
Year: 1000
Time range: 900-1200 CE
Era: Early Medieval
Gender: Male
region: Western Europe
Countries/cultures: England France
Maker: Vincent De Vere, Kristine Nic Tallier
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image example

Intro:

A version of the basic tunic used in many European cultures from antiquity through to the high middle ages by some.  This tunic is split to allow wearer to ride a horse and have freedom of movement.

Description:

One of the many variations of the tunics made out of linen or wool. This example has a keyhole neck opening and featuring a split in front and back bottom to allow the wearer to ride a horse. 

This variation was cut T tunic style out of a wide piece of fabric to minimize seams. A more period cut would include seams connecting the sleeve to the body.  Trim is an applique of linen.  Keyhole neck is held closed with a brooch pin.  Tunics are about the easiest garments to construct.

Tunics are often the starting point for new members when just beginning in the SCA.  This tunic could be made for less than $20 in 2021.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen (including non-flax linen)
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool blends,
    • Linen, linen/rayon
    • linen/cotton
    • some cottons could be used but cotton broad cloth is not advised as it is not a strong material and doesn’t drape well
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Under shirt (likely of a similar cut)
  • Belt
  • Pouch

New members often start with just a tunic and belt.

  • pants/trews/braccae
  • leg wraps
  • turn shoes/boots

Accessories

  • under tunic as bottom layer
  • belt
  • pants
  • over tunic or super tunic over the tunic
  • shoes
  • cloak or coat

Source/Links

http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html

http://alianorderavenglas.wordpress.com/as-50-challenge/13th-century-riding-tunic/

Version: 2
date: 3/1/2021
Source of Period Pic: Maciejowski Bible.
Model: Vincent De Vere
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

1000 CE Norman Riding Tunic 1

deveretallier
Title: 1000 CE Norman Riding Tunic 1
Entry #: GGB2021.027
Alternate Names: tunic, t tunic 
Year: 1000
Time range: 900-1200 CE
Era: Early Medieval
Gender: Male
region: Western Europe
Countries/cultures: England France
Maker: Vincent De Vere
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: Image example

Intro:

A version of the basic tunic used in many European cultures from antiquity through to the high middle ages by some.  This tunic is split to allow wearer to ride a horse and have freedom of movement.

Description:

One of the many variations of the tunics made out of linen or wool. This example has a keyhole neck opening and featuring a split in front and back bottom to allow the wearer to ride a horse. 

This variation was cut T tunic style out of a wide piece of fabric to minimize seams. A more period cut would include seams connecting the sleeve to the body.  Trim is an applique of linen.  Keyhole neck is held closed with a brooch pin.  Tunics are about the easiest garments to construct.

Tunics are often the starting point for new members when just beginning in the SCA.  This tunic could be made for less than $20 in 2021.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen (including non-flax linen)
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool blends,
    • Linen, linen/rayon
    • linen/cotton
    • some cottons could be used but cotton broad cloth is not advised as it is not a strong material and doesn’t drape well
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Under shirt (likely of a similar cut)
  • Belt
  • Pouch

New members often start with just a tunic and belt.

  • pants/trews/braccae
  • leg wraps
  • turn shoes/boots

Accessories

  • under tunic as bottom layer
  • belt
  • pants
  • over tunic or super tunic over the tunic
  • shoes
  • cloak or coat

Source/Links

http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html

http://alianorderavenglas.wordpress.com/as-50-challenge/13th-century-riding-tunic/

Version: 2
date: 3/1/2021
Source of Period Pic: Maciejowski Bible.
Model: Vincent De Vere
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1000 CE Female Byzantine Borderlands Dress

deveretallier
Title: 1000 CE Female Byzantine Borderlands Dress
Entry # : GGB2021.016
Alternate Names:  
Year: 1000 CE
Time range: 900-1100 CE
Era: Early Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Eastern Europe, middle east
Countries/cultures: Byzantine
Maker: Liesel Gelucken
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

Clothing from the outskirts of the Byzantine Empire, multi layered and richly decorated tunic-like garments consisting of layers of dresses and robes

Description:

Essentially wide sleeved tunics and robes, made from rich fabrics and decorated with embroidered embellishments.

Multiple layers of rich garments would show the wealth of the individual.  Fabrics were lighter and finer in weave, assuming to be linens and silks.  

No additional information provided

Inspiration Images

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Fine Fabrics
    • Linens
    • Silks
    • Solid colors embellished with embroidered decoration or appliqued shames rather than designs that were woven in
  • Ornamentation:
    • embroidery
    • beading

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • cottons
    • linen blends
    • some fine polyesters for silk effects (may have other drawbacks)
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • outer wide-sleeved robe
  • under tunics of various colors

  • hats of various styles
  • shoes or slippers

Accessories

  • worn with roman inspired cloak called a chlamys
  • various hats

Source/Links

Version: 3
date: 3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic: Meister der Predigtsammlung des Heiligen Johannes Chrysostomus, Meister der Predigtsammlung des Heiligen Johannes Chrysostomus
Model: Liesel Gelucken 022313-1
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1000 CE Female Anglo Saxon Tunic Dress

deveretallier
Title1000 CE Female Anglo Saxon Tunic Dress
Entry #GGB2021.015
Alternate Names Tunic dress, gown,
Year1000 CE
Time range900-1066 CE
EraEarly Medieval
Genderfemale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesAnglo Saxon, England
MakerBeocca the Fair of Hastings
Difficulty1
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

A tunic dress style outfit with accessories common to many early or pre medieval cultures. Under dress in the tunic style, and a decorated over dress.

Description:

Few representations survive of early garments and many fewer extant examples, however what does survive would support much of what is shown here. 

The basic tunic style dress consisting of a linen under dress and a wool over dress featuring embroidered decoration around the neck.  Worn with a wimple minus the veil (not pictured) on the head. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Linen for Under Layers
    • Wool for outer Layer
    • Linen or silk for the wimple and veil
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Some cottons
    • cotton/linen blends
    • linen/rayon blends
    • some wool blends
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Under Dress
  • Over Tunic

  • Wimple and Veil

Accessories

Source/Links

Version2
date3/5/2021
Source of Period PicThe National Portrait Gallery History of the Kings and Queens of England by David Williamson, ISBN 1855142287.
ModelDiana Hastings 020213-22 091413-06
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

1000 CE Male Byzantine Tunic 1

deveretallier
Title: 1000 CE Male Byzantine Tunic 1
Entry #: GGB2021.026
Alternate Names:  
Year: 1000 CE
Time range: 700-1083 CE
Era: Early Medieval
Gender: Male
region: Eastern Europe/Middle East
Countries/cultures: Byzantine
Maker:
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: Image examples

Intro:

Clothing from the outskirts of the Byzantine empire, multi layered and richly decorated tunic garments consisting of layers of dresses and robes

Description:

Inspired by the founding Roman cultures, Byzantine garments tended to be layers of tunics made from finely woven and often rich fabrics decorated with embroidery or appliques.  Often worn with a cloak called a Chlamys

Multiple layers of rich garments would show the wealth of the individual.  Fabrics were lighter and finer in weave, assuming to be linens and silks.  

No additional information provided

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Fine Fabrics
    • Linens
    • Silks
    • Solid colors embellished with embroidered decorations or appliqued shames rather than designs that were woven in
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • cottons
    • linen blends
    • some fine polyester/blends for silk effects, but the poly blends have many drawbacks
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • outer wide sleeved robe
  • under tunics of various colors

  • hats of various styles
  • shoes or slippers

Accessories

  • worn with roman inspired cloak called a chlamys and various hats

Source/Links

Version: 3
date: 3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic: Meister der Kahriye-Cami-Kirche in Istanbul
 Mosaiken der Kirche Kahrié-Djami in Istanbul, Szene: Märtyrer
Model: Donald MacDonald 020213-08
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1000 CE Finnish “Eura” Dress 5

deveretallier
Title: 1000 CE Finnish “Eura” Dress 5
Entry #: GGB2021.025
Alternate Names: Luistari in Eura – Grave #56 
Year: 1000 CE
Time range:
Era: Early Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Eastern Baltic
Countries/cultures: Baltic Tribes – Finland
Maker: Vincent De Vere, Zaneta Baseggio, Kristine Nic Tallieur
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Remains of Extant example

Intro:

A fragmentary grave find of a Finnish dress.  Style consists of an under tunic, an over dress of two rectangles of fabric and an apron.  The layers are decorated with tablet weaving and metal coils.  The grave find also was rich in metal artifacts

Description:

The complexity of this garment is in the decoration and accessories.  The basic garment layers are exceedingly simple.

Under tunic:  the base layer under tunic would most likely have been flax or nettle linen.  It consists of 6 pieces, front and back panels, under arm gores extending into the sleeves and the sleeves that extend from hand to neckline.

Overdress:  the over dress is related to other Norse dresses as well as stylistically similar to a peplos.  It is two rectangles that are folded over at the top, pinned at the shoulders and stitched or pinned at the sides. This layer is likely wool in a tabby weave and decorated by tablet weaving.

Apron: The apron is folded over a belt and was likely wool.  The notable thing about the aprons are their decorations made from coils of wire attached at the edges and along the bottom in a variety of styles and decorations. 

Accessories:

Metal coiled arm bracelets (a very close approximation was sold as costume jewelry recently and can still be found)

Necklace made from coins and lampwork beads

Knife sheath and “puco” knife

Eura is a region in south west Finland.  Many graves have been excavated in Luistari in the 1960’s and 70’s.  Fabric reminants were preserved due to oxides from the metal finds. Grave 56 was a focus of attention because the metal preserved enough of the fabric in key points to allow for a reconstruction with some certainty

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Under dress: linen
    • over dress: wool
    • apron: wool
  • Ornamentation:
    • tablet woven trim
    • brass and bronze alloy coils
    • glass beads

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Cottons and linen blends for the under dress
    • wool blends or linens and linen blends for the over dress in summer
    • wool blends or linen and linen blends for the apron
    • Some analysis of the actual colors of the grave finds has been done.  SCA recreations commonly use colors that are available through natural dyes and are therefore plausible.
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Underdress
  • Overdress
  • Apron
  • Belt

  • Optional Mantle (shawl)
  • Simple leather Shoes in the style of “bag shoes”
  • Metal and glass accessories

Accessories

  • Pair of brooch pins holding the overdress together at the shoulders
  • Rings
  • Knife and knife sheath

  • chains between the brooches
  • bracelets including the spiral bracelet
  • necklace made from coins and glass beads

Source/Links

http://www.katajahovi.org/en/costumes.html

http://www.vikinganswerlady.com/FTP_Files/Ancient_Finnish_Costumes.PDF

Version: 2
date: 2/26/2021
Source of Period Pic:
Model:
Photographer: Vincent de Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1000 CE Finnish “Eura” Dress 4

deveretallier
Title: 1000 CE Finnish “Eura” Dress 4
Entry #: GGB2021.024
Alternate Names: Luistari in Eura – Grave #56 
Year: 1000 CE
Time range:
Era: Early Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Eastern Baltic
Countries/cultures: Baltic Tribes – Finland
Maker: Vincent De Vere, Zaneta Baseggio, Kristine Nic Tallieur
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Remains of Extant example

Intro:

A fragmentary grave find of a Finnish dress.  Style consists of an under tunic, an over dress of two rectangles of fabric and an apron.  The layers are decorated with tablet weaving and metal coils.  The grave find also was rich in metal artifacts

Description:

The complexity of this garment is in the decoration and accessories.  The basic garment layers are exceedingly simple.

Under tunic:  the base layer under tunic would most likely have been flax or nettle linen.  It consists of 6 pieces, front and back panels, under arm gores extending into the sleeves and the sleeves that extend from hand to neckline.

Overdress:  the over dress is related to other Norse dresses as well as stylistically similar to a peplos.  It is two rectangles that are folded over at the top, pinned at the shoulders and stitched or pinned at the sides. This layer is likely wool in a tabby weave and decorated by tablet weaving.

Apron: The apron is folded over a belt and was likely wool.  The notable thing about the aprons are their decorations made from coils of wire attached at the edges and along the bottom in a variety of styles and decorations. 

Accessories:

Metal coiled arm bracelets (a very close approximation was sold as costume jewelry recently and can still be found)

Necklace made from coins and lampwork beads

Knife sheath and “puco” knife

Eura is a region in south west Finland.  Many graves have been excavated in Luistari in the 1960’s and 70’s.  Fabric reminants were preserved due to oxides from the metal finds. Grave 56 was a focus of attention because the metal preserved enough of the fabric in key points to allow for a reconstruction with some certainty

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Under dress: linen
    • over dress: wool
    • apron: wool
  • Ornamentation:
    • tablet woven trim
    • brass and bronze alloy coils
    • glass beads

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Cottons and linen blends for the under dress
    • wool blends or linens and linen blends for the over dress in summer
    • wool blends or linen and linen blends for the apron
    • Some analysis of the actual colors of the grave finds has been done.  SCA recreations commonly use colors that are available through natural dyes and are therefore plausible.
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Underdress
  • Overdress
  • Apron
  • Belt

  • Optional Mantle (shawl)
  • Simple leather Shoes in the style of “bag shoes”
  • Metal and glass accessories

Accessories

  • Pair of brooch pins holding the overdress together at the shoulders
  • Rings
  • Knife and knife sheath

  • chains between the brooches
  • bracelets including the spiral bracelet
  • necklace made from coins and glass beads

Source/Links

http://www.katajahovi.org/en/costumes.html

http://www.vikinganswerlady.com/FTP_Files/Ancient_Finnish_Costumes.PDF

Version: 2
date: 2/26/2021
Source of Period Pic:
Model:
Photographer: Vincent de Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1000 CE Finnish “Eura” Dress 3

deveretallier
Title: 1000 CE Finnish “Eura” Dress 3
Entry #: GGB2021.023
Alternate Names: Luistari in Eura – Grave #56 
Year: 1000 CE
Time range:
Era: Early Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Eastern Baltic
Countries/cultures: Baltic Tribes – Finland
Maker: Vincent De Vere, Kristine Nic Tallieur, Marguerite des Baux
Difficulty: 4
Confidence: Remains of Extant example

Intro:

A fragmentary grave find of a Finnish dress.  Style consists of an under tunic, an over dress of two rectangles of fabric and an apron.  The layers are decorated with tablet weaving and metal coils.  The grave find also was rich in metal artifacts

Description:

The complexity of this garment is in the decoration and accessories.  The basic garment layers are exceedingly simple.

Under tunic:  the base layer under tunic would most likely have been flax or nettle linen.  It consists of 6 pieces, front and back panels, under arm gores extending into the sleeves and the sleeves that extend from hand to neckline.

Overdress:  the over dress is related to other Norse dresses as well as stylistically similar to a peplos.  It is two rectangles that are folded over at the top, pinned at the shoulders and stitched or pinned at the sides. This layer is likely wool in a tabby weave and decorated by tablet weaving.

Apron: The apron is folded over a belt and was likely wool.  The notable thing about the aprons are their decorations made from coils of wire attached at the edges and along the bottom in a variety of styles and decorations. 

Accessories:

Metal coiled arm bracelets (a very close approximation was sold as costume jewelry recently and can still be found)

Necklace made from coins and lampwork beads

Knife sheath and “puco” knife

Eura is a region in south west Finland.  Many graves have been excavated in Luistari in the 1960’s and 70’s.  Fabric reminants were preserved due to oxides from the metal finds. Grave 56 was a focus of attention because the metal preserved enough of the fabric in key points to allow for a reconstruction with some certainty

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Under dress: linen
    • over dress: wool
    • apron: wool
  • Ornamentation:
    • tablet woven trim
    • brass and bronze alloy coils
    • glass beads

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Cottons and linen blends for the under dress
    • wool blends or linens and linen blends for the over dress in summer
    • wool blends or linen and linen blends for the apron
    • Some analysis of the actual colors of the grave finds has been done.  SCA recreations commonly use colors that are available through natural dyes and are therefore plausible.
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Underdress
  • Overdress
  • Apron
  • Belt

  • Optional Mantle (shawl)
  • Simple leather Shoes in the style of “bag shoes”
  • Metal and glass accessories

Accessories

  • Pair of brooch pins holding the overdress together at the shoulders
  • Rings
  • Knife and knife sheath

  • chains between the brooches
  • bracelets including the spiral bracelet
  • necklace made from coins and glass beads

Source/Links

http://www.katajahovi.org/en/costumes.html

http://www.vikinganswerlady.com/FTP_Files/Ancient_Finnish_Costumes.PDF

Version: 2
date: 2/26/2021
Source of Period Pic:
Model:
Photographer: Vincent de Vere