This is a tablet woven belt made in two layers. The outer layer is cotton with mylar wrapped thread that emulates gold thread used in period weaving. The images woven into the belt using a brocade technique. The belt is woven in two parts with a cotton inner belt and the layers are sewn together. The buckle is a reproduction of an English find from 1300-1400’s buckle from a private collection. Purchased from a reenactor vendor.
This is a modern buckle taken from a worn out belt and attached to a strip of leather to form a belt. This easily made belt works very well for people new to the SCA.
This reproduction buckle is based an extant example dated to arround 1350 CE, but is very similar to many others from different time periods. It is available through several reputable vendors. It would be an example of a very inexpensive reproduction piece.
A middle later to the Italian male clothing, a doublet like layer worn over undershirts and below outer layers.
Description:
The middle layer of the male dress worn by most levels of society. The 1400’s see the transition from the longer doublet to the very short doublet. The major distinctions of the Italian variant can be seen on the arms, tight below the elbow and billowed at the upper arm, and the collar, at the back of the neck, where the collar dips lower down the spine.
Inspiration Images
Common Materials
Fabrics:
Linen
Brocades
Silk
Ornamentation:
Effective Substitutions
Fabrics:
Linen
Linen Blends
Cottons
Brocades
Wool Blends
Silks
Silk Blends
Ornamentation:
Ensemble Components
Farsetto
Undershirt
Split hose and pants
Accessories
Source/Links
Version: 2
date: 3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic: Piero della Francesca The battle between Heraclius and Chosroes, 1452-1466
The houppelande is an outermost layer of dress, which was worn by middle-to-upper classes, both men and women. It was worn over a more fitted undergarment. It is identified by volumes of fabric neatly pleated into a belt, and visually balanced by a large hat.
Description:
Men wore varying lengths, depending on the fashion of the time and possibly the age of the wearer. Women wore them long, often breaking on the floor. Sleeve style varied by region and time as well, from a straight construction to wide and open, or wide and closed again at the wrist.
Necklines and sleeves started similar to cotehardies, and varied to high buttoned collars and folded down collars. Fabrics were colorful, sometimes brocaded, and often lined to contrast. Later, the female houppelande was tightened at the sleeve, a deep V left in the neck, and became the ‘Burgundian’ gown.
Layers under the Houppelande include base layers of shifts/under dresses, a kirtle or supportive layer, a cote, dress, gown or cotehardie layer and the outer houppelande
First seen in documentation in 1359 CE, the garments seem to have evolved from other outer wear such as garde-corps or herigauts, warm, billowy outer layers pulled over the head.
Houppelande in pic is made from wool with a fur collar. This is a transitional garment with many similarities to the Burgundian gown evident
Inspiration Images
Common Materials
Fabrics:
wool
linen
silk
tabby and brocade patterning
Ornamentation:
embroidery
lined with contrasting fur
Effective Substitutions
Fabrics:
wool blends
linen
linen blends
cotton damasks
Ornamentation:
costume or fake fur
contrasting fabric
Ensemble Components
undershirt
doublet
“Middle Layer” such as a cote/cotehardie gowns
Supportive Kirtle
braies/undergarments
Accessories
shoes with a point,
hose & garters
plaited hair
belt
hat – rolls, henins, and dual horns are fashionable
The houppelande is an outermost layer of dress, which was worn by middle-to-upper classes, both men and women. It was worn over a more fitted undergarment. It is identified by volumes of fabric neatly pleated into a belt, and visually balanced by a large hat.
Additional Images of the garment:
Description:
Men wore houppelandes of varying lengths, depending on the fashion of the time and possibly the age of the wearer. This shorter version of the garments makes it a Houppelande à mi-jambe, more popular in the years following 1400 CE.
Sleeve style varied by region and time as well, from a straight construction to wide and open, or wide and closed again at the wrist.
Necklines and sleeves started similar to cotehardies, and varied to high buttoned collars and folded down collars. Fabrics were colorful, sometimes brocaded, and often lined to contrast. Later, the female houppelande was tightened at the sleeve, a deep V left in the neck, and became the ‘Burgundian’ gown.
Layers under the Houppelande include base layers of undershirt, braies/hosen, doublet, cotehardie and the outer houppelande
First seen in documentation in 1359 CE, the garments seem to have evolved from other outer wear such as garde-corps or herigauts, warm, billowy outer layers pulled over the head.
This Houppelande à mi-jambe is made from budget friendly linen/rayon blend and is reversible.
The houppelande is an outermost layer of dress, which was worn by middle-to-upper classes, both men and women. It was worn over a more fitted undergarment. It is identified by volumes of fabric neatly pleated into a belt, and visually balanced by a large hat.
Description:
Men wore varying lengths, depending on the fashion of the time and possibly the age of the wearer. Women wore them long, often breaking on the floor. Sleeve style varied by region and time as well, from a straight construction to wide and open, or wide and closed again at the wrist.
Necklines and sleeves started similar to cotehardies, and varied to high buttoned collars and folded down collars. Fabrics were colorful, sometimes brocaded, and often lined to contrast. Later, the female houppelande was tightened at the sleeve, a deep V left in the neck, and became the ‘Burgundian’ gown.
Layers under the Houppelande include base layers of shifts/under dresses, a kirtle or supportive layer, a cote, dress, gown or cotehardie layer and the outer houppelande
First seen in documentation in 1359 CE, the garments seem to have evolved from other outer wear such as garde-corps or herigauts, warm, billowy outer layers pulled over the head.
Houppelande in pic is made from a rich brocade worn over a blue cotehardie
Inspiration Images
Common Materials
Fabrics:
wool
linen
silk
tabby and brocade patterning
Ornamentation:
embroidery
lined with contrasting fur
Effective Substitutions
Fabrics:
wool blends
linen
linen blends
cotton damasks
Ornamentation:
costume or fake fur
contrasting fabric
Ensemble Components
undershirt
doublet
“Middle Layer” such as a cote/cotehardie gowns
Supportive Kirtle
braies/undergarments
Accessories
shoes with a point,
hose & garters
plaited hair
belt
hat – rolls, henins, and dual horns are fashionable
“A” shaped dress with “V” shaped neckline, fitted in the torso and spreading widely, often with train from the waist. Wide belt at waist. Worn over fitted kirtle.
Description:
One of the garments that there are many image examples for as this is a time of many surviving artworks. A style of dress seen in many Flemish paintings that show a common set of features including fitted torso with deeply plunging neckline and collar with contrasting fabric or fur lining. The deep neckline displayed an under placket or partlet or kirtle, some displayed without. Sleeves often shown with lined cuffs that are rolled back on the sleeve. Most show no seam at waist or a wide belt covering any such seam. More examples of images showing the waist seam appear closer to 1500CE. Many are displayed as being lined
Under layers would commonly include a shift, slip or some form of underdress, covered by a fitted kirtle and then covered by the gown.
Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.
This is a more simple form of the dress and worn on a warmer day. The under layers are simplified and the dress is not as full. Made out of brocaded cotton fabric with a black velvet collar and the red placket exposed by the neckline.
Inspiration Images
Common Materials
Fabrics:
Gown –
wools,
finely woven wools,
brocaded or patterned cloths. Rich textiles,
collars featuring velvets and furs.
Fur trim
Kirtle –
wool
linen
Underclothes
linen
Ornamentation:
Effective Substitutions
Fabrics:
Gown
Some cottons
linens
Linen blends wool blends
brocades
some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns.
Kirtle
Linen and linen blends
some cottons to lighten the under layers
Underclothes
Linen
Linen blends
cottons
Ornamentation:
Ensemble Components
Under layers – shift/slip or some form of underdress
gown.
fitted kirtle
Accessories
Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.
This is the time of the Henin hat that becomes the stereotypical ‘princess’ hat, various low shoes or slippers, pouches or purses.
“A” shaped dress with “V” shaped neckline, fitted in the torso and spreading widely, often with train from the waist. Wide belt at waist. Worn over fitted kirtle.
Additional Images of the completed garment:
Description:
One of the garments that there are many image examples for as this is a time of many surviving artworks. A style of dress seen in many Flemish paintings that show a common set of features including fitted torso with deeply plunging neckline and collar with contrasting fabric or fur lining. The deep neckline displayed an under placket or partlet or kirtle, some displayed without. Sleeves often shown with lined cuffs that are rolled back on the sleeve. Most show no seam at waist or a wide belt covering any such seam. More examples of images showing the waist seam appear closer to 1500CE. Many are displayed as being lined
Under layers would commonly include a shift, slip or some form of underdress, covered by a fitted kirtle and then covered by the gown.
Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.
This dress is poly cotton blend brocade with cotton velvet collar and cuffs, red linen kirtle, white linen shift. A yellow silk placket covers most of the red kirtle at the plunging neckline
Inspiration Images
Common Materials
Fabrics:
Gown –
wools,
finely woven wools,
brocaded or patterned cloths. Rich textiles,
collars featuring velvets and furs.
Fur trim
Kirtle –
wool
linen
Underclothes
linen
Ornamentation:
Effective Substitutions
Fabrics:
Gown
Some cottons
linens
Linen blends wool blends
brocades
some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns.
Kirtle
Linen and linen blends
some cottons to lighten the under layers
Underclothes
Linen
Linen blends
cottons
Ornamentation:
Ensemble Components
Under layers – shift/slip or some form of underdress
gown.
fitted kirtle
Accessories
Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.
This is the time of the Henin hat that becomes the stereotypical ‘princess’ hat, various low shoes or slippers, pouches or purses.
SCA Iowa Garb Guide 
