| Title | 1400 CE Female Houppelande 1 |
| Entry # | GGB2021.063 |
| Alternate Names | Gown, houpelande, poun, pellanda |
| Year | 1380 |
| Time range | 1360-1430 |
| Era | Late Medieval |
| Gender | Female |
| region | Western Europe |
| Countries/cultures | England, France |
| Maker | Josefine del Torre |
| Difficulty | 5 |
| Confidence | Image Examples |
Intro:
The houppelande is an outermost layer of dress, which was worn by middle-to-upper classes, both men and women. It was worn over a more fitted undergarment. It is identified by volumes of fabric neatly pleated into a belt, and visually balanced by a large hat.
Description:
Men wore varying lengths, depending on the fashion of the time and possibly the age of the wearer. Women wore them long, often breaking on the floor. Sleeve style varied by region and time as well, from a straight construction to wide and open, or wide and closed again at the wrist.
Necklines and sleeves started similar to cotehardies, and varied to high buttoned collars and folded down collars. Fabrics were colorful, sometimes brocaded, and often lined to contrast. Later, the female houppelande was tightened at the sleeve, a deep V left in the neck, and became the ‘Burgundian’ gown.
Layers under the Houppelande include base layers of shifts/under dresses, a kirtle or supportive layer, a cote, dress, gown or cotehardie layer and the outer houppelande
First seen in documentation in 1359 CE, the garments seem to have evolved from other outer wear such as garde-corps or herigauts, warm, billowy outer layers pulled over the head.
Houppelande in pic is made from a rich brocade worn over a blue cotehardie
Inspiration Images
Common Materials
- Fabrics:
- wool
- linen
- silk
- tabby and brocade patterning
- Ornamentation:
- embroidery
- lined with contrasting fur
Effective Substitutions
- Fabrics:
- wool blends
- linen
- linen blends
- cotton damasks
- Ornamentation:
- costume or fake fur
- contrasting fabric
Ensemble Components
- undershirt
- doublet
- “Middle Layer” such as a cote/cotehardie gowns
- Supportive Kirtle
- braies/undergarments
Accessories
- shoes with a point,
- hose & garters
- plaited hair
- belt
- hat – rolls, henins, and dual horns are fashionable
Source/Links
http://www.virtue.to/articles/circle_houp.html
http://medievalweddingdresses.ideasforweddings.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/houppelande3.jpg, http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/2482968742/in/photostream/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/2711997808/in/photostream/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/17024607@N08/2143873264, http://wp.bymymeasure.com/526/houppelande-belts-of-the-early-15th-century
| Version | 2 |
| date | 3/3/2021 |
| Source of Period Pic | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Houppelande#/media/File:Prayer_book_of_Maria_d’Harcourt_-_Staatsbibliothek_zu_Berlin_MsGermQuart42_-_f19v.jpg |
| Model | Mirabel Wynne/ |
| Photographer | Vincent De Vere |
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