Female, Full Entry

500 CE Female Byzantine Tunica and Delmatica

Title500 CE Female Byzantine Tunica and Delmatica
Entry #GGB2021.0004
Alternate Names Female byzantine court dress
Year500 CE
Time range500-700 CE
EraEarly medieval
GenderFemale
regionEastern Europe, middle east
Countries/culturesByzantine
MakerKonstantia Kaloethina
Difficulty2
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

Court garb, multi layered and richly decorated garment consisting of layers of dresses and robes as well as a decorated collar.

Description:

Essentially wide sleeved tunics and robes, made from rich fabrics and decorated with embroidered embellishments.

Multiple layers of rich garments would show the wealth of the individual.  Fabrics were lighter and finer in weave, assuming to be linens and silks.  

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Fine fabrics
    • linens
    • silks
    • solid colors embellished with embroidered decorations or appliqued shames rather than designs that were woven in
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • cottons
    • linen blends
    • some fine poly’s for silk effects, but the poly blends have many drawbacks,
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • outer wide sleeved robe
  • under tunics of various colors

  • shoes or slippers

Accessories

  • worn with roman inspired cloak called a chlamys
  • various hats

Source/Links

Version2
date3/6/2021
Source of Period PicPetar Milošević photo of Theodora (San Vitale) Ravenna, Italy
ModelKonstantia Kaloethina 032313-5
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

600 CE Norse Klappenrock over Tunic

Title600 CE Norse Klappenrock over Tunic
Entry #GGB2021.0005
Alternate Names Klappenrock, warriors coat, Viking coat
Year600 CE
Time range600 – 900 CE
EraEarly medieval
GenderMale
regionNorthern Europe
Countries/culturesNorse, Viking
MakerVincent De Vere, Kristine nic Tallieur
Difficulty2
ConfidenceImage examples/ fragmentary evidence

Intro:

A tunic and an outer layer coat associated with Norse cultures.  The front panels cross over each other and the coat is held closed with a belt.  Often trimmed with tablet woven trim and possibly fur. 

Description:

Wool coat lined with linen decorated with a tablet woven band.  The coat is shown over a Bocksten style tunic and under tunic.  Often associated with fragments found in Haithabu

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool 2/2 twill
    • cross twill
    • diamond twill
    • herringbone twill
    • wool that could be lined with will or linen. 
  • Ornamentation:
    • Tablet woven trim in wool, linen, or silk. Possibly brocaded with metal.
    • Embroidery

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool blends
    • linen blends
  • Ornamentation:
    • Appropriately patterned commercially woven trim
    • Inkle-woven Trim
    • Tablet woven trim
    • Cotton or poly thread

Ensemble Components

  • Birka style coat
  • Bocksten cut tunic
  • Bocksten cut under tunic

  • Pants
  • Shoes

Accessories

  • Belt
  • pouch
  • Simple Hat
  • leg wraps

Source/Links

https://sites.google.com/site/archoevidence/home/viking-clothing-guides

Version2
date2/21/2021
Source of Period PicSutton Hoo Helm decoration, British museum 
Model 
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

800 CE Male Anglo Saxon Tunic

Title800 CE Male Anglo Saxon Tunic
Entry #GGB2021.0007
Alternate Names tunic, over tunic
Year800 CE
Time range500-900 CE
EraEarly Medieval
GenderMale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesEngland
MakerRichard of Wolfwood
Difficulty1
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

A tunic style outfit with accessories common to many early or pre medieval cultures. Under tunic, over tunic, pants with leg wraps, turn shoes and a mantled hood

Description:

Few representations survive of early garments and many fewer extant examples, however what does survive would support much of what is shown here. 

The fabric shows woven in patterns that existed across Western Europe in the centuries before 1000 CE.  The basic style of layers of tunics and pants continued from before the centuries of the Roman influence to the age of Norman England. 

A base layer of a linen under tunic may have been worn below the long sleeved wool tunic and the wool outer tunic.  This example was made from Linen for use during warm summer events. 

The pants made from striped linen cloth would have been wool in period.  The leg wraps are made from strips of wool fabric but are often woven as narrow bands.  These are also know and winingas. The shoes are an early style of turn shoe.

The hood has a wide mantle and is made from light wool.  The amber would have been a common item traded from Eastern Europe.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • linen
    • wool
  • Ornamentation:
    • Embroidery
    • Tablet woven bands

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • cotton
    • cotton-linen
    • linen-rayon
    • wool blends
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Under tunic
  • Over Tunic

  • Pants
  • Hood

Accessories

  • Belt
  • Leg Wraps
  • Pouch
  • Turn Shoes

Source/Links

https://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/viktunic.html

Version2
date3/5/2021
Source of Period PicOriginally from MS 183, f.1v at Corpus Christi College, Cambridge
ModelRichard Jones 020213-19
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

800 CE Female Byzantine Delmatikion

Title800 CE Female Byzantine Delmatikion
Entry #GGB2021.0006
Alternate Names Female byzantine court dress
Year800 CE
Time range700-1083 CE
EraEarly medieval
GenderFemale
regionEastern Europe, middle east
Countries/culturesByzantine
MakerDiana Tantini
Difficulty2
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

Court garb, multi layered and richly decorated garment consisting of layers of dresses and robes as well as a decorated collar.

Description:

Essentially wide sleeved tunics and robes, made from rich fabrics and decorated with embroidered embellishments.

Multiple layers of rich garments would show the wealth of the individual.  Fabrics were lighter and finer in weave, assuming to be linens and silks.  

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Fine fabrics
    • linens
    • silks
    • solid colors embellished with embroidered decorations or appliqued shames rather than designs that were woven in
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • cottons
    • linen blends
    • some fine poly’s for silk effects, but the poly blends have many drawbacks,
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • outer wide sleeved robe
  • under tunics of various colors

  • shoes or slippers

Accessories

  • worn with roman inspired cloak called a chlamys
  • various hats

Source/Links

Version2
date3/6/2021
Source of Period PicPetar Milošević photo of Theodora (San Vitale) Ravenna, Italy
ModelDiane Wilson 020213-21
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

900 CE Male Norse Tunic

Title900 CE Male Norse Tunic
Entry #GGB2021.0009
Alternate NamesT Tunic, Lendbreen tunic
Year900 CE
Time range600-1000 CE
EraEarly Medieval
GenderMale
regionNorthern Europe
Countries/cultures Northern Europe
Maker
Difficulty1
ConfidenceExtant Example

Intro:

Tunic, pants, leg wraps used in many northern European areas for a wide time frame in the early medieval era

Description:

Linen under tunic Wool tunic with woven trim at wrists, pants tied with a drawstring at the waist,  wool leg wraps, Norse style boots, belt and pouch.

Many of the male garments from across northern Europe through the early middles ages share many similarities.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • linen
    • wool
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • cotton
    • cotton-linen
    • linen-rayon
    • wool blends
    • Scrub pants can be used for pants.  Strips of cloth can be used for leg wraps.  Various boots and shoes can be used if they do not stand out too much.
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Under tunic
  • Over Tunic

  • Pants
  • Hood

Accessories

  • Belt
  • Leg Wraps
  • jewelry
  • Pouch
  • Turn Shoes
  • knife

Source/Links

https://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/viktunic.html

https://www.medievalists.net/2014/11/early-medieval-tunic-recreated-norway/

Version2
date3/5/2021
Source of Period Pichttps://www.medievalists.net/2014/11/early-medieval-tunic-recreated-norway/
ModelBjarki Vikarason 031513-02
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

900 CE Anglo Saxon Tunic

Title900 CE Anglo Saxon Tunic
Entry #GGB2021.0008
Alternate Names tunic, over tunic
Year900 CE
Time range500-900 CE
EraEarly Medieval
GenderMale
regionWestern Europe, Northern Europe
Countries/culturesEngland
MakerElspeth of Stonehaven
Difficulty1
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

A tunic style outfit with accessories common to many early or pre medieval cultures. Under tunic, over tunic, pants with leg wraps, turn shoes and a mantled hood

Description:

Few representations survive of early garments and many fewer extant examples, however what does survive would support much of what is shown here. 

The fabric shows woven in patterns that existed across Western Europe in the centuries before 1000 CE.  The basic style of layers of tunics and pants continued from before the centuries of the Roman influence to the age of Norman England. 

A base layer of a linen under tunic may have been worn below the long sleeved wool tunic and the wool outer tunic.  This example was made from Linen for use during warm summer events. 

The pants made heavy cotton cloth would have been wool in period. 

The over tunic is decorated with embroidery

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • linen
    • wool
  • Ornamentation:
    • Embroidery
    • Tablet woven bands

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • cotton
    • cotton-linen
    • linen-rayon
    • wool blends
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Under tunic
  • Over Tunic

  • Pants
  • Hood

Accessories

  • Belt
  • Leg Wraps
  • Pouch
  • Turn Shoes

Source/Links

Version2
date3/5/2021
Source of Period PicBayeux tapestry
ModelTola Rufusdóhtor 020213-24
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

900 CE Norse Hangerok 4

Title900 CE Norse Hangerok 4
Entry #GGB2021.013
Alternate Names Apron Dress, Smokkr
Year900 CE
Time range900-1000 CE
EraEarly medieval
Genderfemale
regionNorthern Europe
Countries/culturesNorse, Viking,
MakerMoire inghean Neill
Difficulty1
ConfidenceSpeculative reconstruction

Intro:

A tunic dress under layer with an apron like over dress with shoulder straps pinned in place with distinctive brooch pins.  Remains of decorative trim sometimes found on the top band of the dress.   Often accessorized with beads and metal accessories. There are several theorized construction techniques.  No current supportive evidence for belts. 

Description:

Naturally dyed under dress with a Red wool over dress – 

They are an overdress worn over a tunic-like under dress.  They generally take the shape of a tube or flared tube with broaches that connect shoulder straps to the front of the over dress.  The grave finds have shown general construction of wool and some linen with variation in color, finishing and decoration.  There are many fabulous resources on line to research this easy to construct garment

Current research suggests that the general style of apron dress may have been used across Norse cultures with regional variations.  Local and regional differences may have led to many variations on the theme.

 There is scant evidence from the grave finds due to excessive decomposition of the fabrics.  These still seem to be dresses of a debatable authenticity.  This has led to some of the different interpretations that are found on line.

Based on the articles I have read at this time I will side with the argument that this is a general category of garment that saw variations based on region, culture and time period.  They can be grouped together as a style due to specific traits in common. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen
  • Ornamentation:
    • tablet woven decorations
    • embroidery
    • Silk or linen strips or threads

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen
    • linen blends
    • cotton
    • wool blends
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Hangeroc (apron overdress)
  • underdress

  • Coat/Kaftan

Accessories

  • strands of beads
    • glass or amber
  • Small tools (scissors, needle case, ear spoons, etc)
  • Brooches

Source/Links

Raymonds Quiet Press – source for reproduction broaches

https://raymonds-quiet-press.myshopify.com/

http://urd.priv.no/viking/smokkr.html

http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html

Version2
date2/21/2021
Source of Period Pichttp://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html
ModelMoire inghean Neill 091413-01
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Female, Full Entry

900 CE Norse Hangerok 3

Title900 CE Norse Hangerok 3
Entry #GGB2021.012
Alternate Names Apron Dress, Smokkr
Year900 CE
Time range900-1000 CE
EraEarly medieval
Genderfemale
regionNorthern Europe
Countries/culturesNorse, Viking,
MakerNghuala inghean Vi Fallamhain
Difficulty1
ConfidenceSpeculative reconstruction

Intro:

A tunic dress under layer with an apron like over dress with shoulder straps pinned in place with distinctive brooch pins.  Remains of decorative trim sometimes found on the top band of the dress.   Often accessorized with beads and metal accessories. There are several theorized construction techniques.  No current supportive evidence for belts. 

Description:

Linen under dress with a blue linen over dress featuring Rus style broaches –  this is a variation made to allow for the dress to be worn on very hot days.

They are an overdress worn over a tunic-like under dress.  They generally take the shape of a tube or flared tube with broaches that connect shoulder straps to the front of the over dress.  The grave finds have shown general construction of wool and some linen with variation in color, finishing and decoration.  There are many fabulous resources on line to research this easy to construct garment

Current research suggests that the general style of apron dress may have been used across Norse cultures with regional variations.  Local and regional differences may have led to many variations on the theme.

 There is scant evidence from the grave finds due to excessive decomposition of the fabrics.  These still seem to be dresses of a debatable authenticity.  This has led to some of the different interpretations that are found on line.

Based on the articles I have read at this time I will side with the argument that this is a general category of garment that saw variations based on region, culture and time period.  They can be grouped together as a style due to specific traits in common. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen
  • Ornamentation:
    • tablet woven decorations
    • embroidery
    • Silk or linen strips or threads

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen
    • linen blends
    • cotton
    • wool blends
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Hangeroc (apron overdress)
  • underdress

  • Coat/Kaftan

Accessories

  • strands of beads
    • glass or amber
  • Small tools (scissors, needle case, ear spoons, etc)
  • Brooches

Source/Links

Raymonds Quiet Press – source for reproduction broaches

https://raymonds-quiet-press.myshopify.com/

http://urd.priv.no/viking/smokkr.html

http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html

Version2
date2/21/2021
Source of Period Pichttp://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html
ModelNghuala inghean Vi  Fallamhain 082413-08
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Female, Full Entry

900 CE Norse Hangerok 2

Title900 CE Norse Hangerok 2
Entry #GGB2021.011
Alternate Names Apron Dress, Smokkr
Year900 CE
Time range900-1000 CE
EraEarly medieval
Genderfemale
regionNorthern Europe
Countries/culturesNorse, Viking,
MakerGyda Glora
Difficulty1
ConfidenceSpeculative reconstruction

Intro:

A tunic dress under layer with an apron like over dress with shoulder straps pinned in place with distinctive brooch pins.  Remains of decorative trim sometimes found on the top band of the dress.   Often accessorized with beads and metal accessories. There are several theorized construction techniques.  No current supportive evidence for belts. 

Description:

Red wool over dress torn over a tan linen under dress.  The sort sleeves of the underdress pictured were due to a modern adaptation of the style for use in very hot weather.  Current theory would suggest long sleeve underdress.

They are an overdress worn over a tunic-like under dress.  They generally take the shape of a tube or flared tube with broaches that connect shoulder straps to the front of the over dress.  The grave finds have shown general construction of wool and some linen with variation in color, finishing and decoration.  There are many fabulous resources online to research this easy to construct garment

Current research suggests that the general style of apron dress may have been used across Norse cultures with regional variations.  Local and regional differences may have led to many variations on the theme.

 There is scant evidence from the grave finds due to excessive decomposition of the fabrics.  These still seem to be dresses of a debatable authenticity.  This has led to some of the different interpretations that are found on line.

Based on the articles I have read at this time I will side with the argument that this is a general category of garment that saw variations based on region, culture and time period.  They can be grouped together as a style due to specific traits in common. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen
  • Ornamentation:
    • tablet woven decorations
    • embroidery
    • Silk or linen strips or threads

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen
    • linen blends
    • cotton
    • wool blends
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Hangeroc (apron overdress)
  • underdress

  • Coat/Kaftan

Accessories

  • strands of beads
    • glass or amber
  • Small tools (scissors, needle case, ear spoons, etc)
  • Brooches

Source/Links

Raymonds Quiet Press – source for reproduction broaches

https://raymonds-quiet-press.myshopify.com/

http://urd.priv.no/viking/smokkr.html

http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html

Version2
date2/21/2021
Source of Period Pichttp://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html
ModelGyda Glora 082413-07
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Female, Full Entry

900 CE Norse Hangerok 1

Title900 CE Norse Hangerok 1
Entry #GGB2021.010
Alternate Names Apron Dress, Smokkr
Year900 CE
Time range900-1000 CE
EraEarly medieval
Genderfemale
regionNorthern Europe
Countries/culturesNorse, Viking,
MakerVasilla Krasnaia
Difficulty2
ConfidenceSpeculative reconstruction

Intro:

A tunic dress under layer with an apron like over dress with shoulder straps pinned in place with distinctive brooch pins.  Remains of decorative trim sometimes found on the top band of the dress.   Often accessorized with beads and metal accessories. There are several theorized construction techniques.  No current supportive evidence for belts. 

Description:

Red wool over dress torn over a tan linen under dress.  The sort sleeves of the underdress pictured were due to a modern adaptation of the style for use in very hot weather.  Current theory would suggest long sleeve underdress.

They are an overdress worn over a tunic-like under dress.  They generally take the shape of a tube or flared tube with broaches that connect shoulder straps to the front of the over dress.  The grave finds have shown general construction of wool and some linen with variation in color, finishing and decoration.  There are many fabulous resources online to research this easy to construct garment

Current research suggests that the general style of apron dress may have been used across Norse cultures with regional variations.  Local and regional differences may have led to many variations on the theme.

 There is scant evidence from the grave finds due to excessive decomposition of the fabrics.  These still seem to be dresses of a debatable authenticity.  This has led to some of the different interpretations that are found on line.

Based on the articles I have read at this time I will side with the argument that this is a general category of garment that saw variations based on region, culture and time period.  They can be grouped together as a style due to specific traits in common. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen
  • Ornamentation:
    • tablet woven decorations
    • embroidery
    • Silk or linen strips or threads

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen
    • linen blends
    • cotton
    • wool blends
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Hangeroc (apron overdress)
  • underdress

  • Coat/Kaftan

Accessories

  • strands of beads
    • glass or amber
  • Small tools (scissors, needle case, ear spoons, etc)
  • Brooches

Source/Links

Raymonds Quiet Press – source for reproduction broaches

https://raymonds-quiet-press.myshopify.com/

http://urd.priv.no/viking/smokkr.html

http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html

Version2
date2/21/2021
Source of Period Pichttp://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html
ModelVasilla Krasnaia 082413-06
PhotographerVincent De Vere