Tag: Difficulty 2

Female, Full Entry

1000 CE Finnish “Eura” Dress 4

deveretallier
Title: 1000 CE Finnish “Eura” Dress 4
Entry #: GGB2021.024
Alternate Names: Luistari in Eura – Grave #56 
Year: 1000 CE
Time range:
Era: Early Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Eastern Baltic
Countries/cultures: Baltic Tribes – Finland
Maker: Vincent De Vere, Zaneta Baseggio, Kristine Nic Tallieur
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Remains of Extant example

Intro:

A fragmentary grave find of a Finnish dress.  Style consists of an under tunic, an over dress of two rectangles of fabric and an apron.  The layers are decorated with tablet weaving and metal coils.  The grave find also was rich in metal artifacts

Description:

The complexity of this garment is in the decoration and accessories.  The basic garment layers are exceedingly simple.

Under tunic:  the base layer under tunic would most likely have been flax or nettle linen.  It consists of 6 pieces, front and back panels, under arm gores extending into the sleeves and the sleeves that extend from hand to neckline.

Overdress:  the over dress is related to other Norse dresses as well as stylistically similar to a peplos.  It is two rectangles that are folded over at the top, pinned at the shoulders and stitched or pinned at the sides. This layer is likely wool in a tabby weave and decorated by tablet weaving.

Apron: The apron is folded over a belt and was likely wool.  The notable thing about the aprons are their decorations made from coils of wire attached at the edges and along the bottom in a variety of styles and decorations. 

Accessories:

Metal coiled arm bracelets (a very close approximation was sold as costume jewelry recently and can still be found)

Necklace made from coins and lampwork beads

Knife sheath and “puco” knife

Eura is a region in south west Finland.  Many graves have been excavated in Luistari in the 1960’s and 70’s.  Fabric reminants were preserved due to oxides from the metal finds. Grave 56 was a focus of attention because the metal preserved enough of the fabric in key points to allow for a reconstruction with some certainty

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Under dress: linen
    • over dress: wool
    • apron: wool
  • Ornamentation:
    • tablet woven trim
    • brass and bronze alloy coils
    • glass beads

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Cottons and linen blends for the under dress
    • wool blends or linens and linen blends for the over dress in summer
    • wool blends or linen and linen blends for the apron
    • Some analysis of the actual colors of the grave finds has been done.  SCA recreations commonly use colors that are available through natural dyes and are therefore plausible.
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Underdress
  • Overdress
  • Apron
  • Belt

  • Optional Mantle (shawl)
  • Simple leather Shoes in the style of “bag shoes”
  • Metal and glass accessories

Accessories

  • Pair of brooch pins holding the overdress together at the shoulders
  • Rings
  • Knife and knife sheath

  • chains between the brooches
  • bracelets including the spiral bracelet
  • necklace made from coins and glass beads

Source/Links

http://www.katajahovi.org/en/costumes.html

http://www.vikinganswerlady.com/FTP_Files/Ancient_Finnish_Costumes.PDF

Version: 2
date: 2/26/2021
Source of Period Pic:
Model:
Photographer: Vincent de Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1000 CE Female Norman Gown 1

deveretallier
Title: 1000 CE Female Norman Gown 1
Entry #: GGB2021.017
Alternate Names: Gown, Cotte, tunic dress 
Year: 1100 CE
Time range: 900-1150CE
Era: High Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Western Europe
Countries/cultures: Norman, Anglo Saxon, England, france
Maker: Hanne Abendschein
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A common tunic dress style garment prevalent both in England as well as central Europe for the time leading up to and after the Norman invasion of 1066 CE

Description:

A common style worn by women in pre and post Norman invasion in England as well as France consisted of a tunic style underdress and over dress.

The underdress called a chemise, chainse or smock would commonly be made of linen. 

The over tunic or cotte would be longer for higher status women or shorter for working class. Sleeves are shown in some painting both tight to the wrist as well as bell or trumpet sleeves. Commonly made out of wool and perhaps decorated with embroidery or the applique of contrasting fabrics.

Commonly work with this would be simple turn or bag shoes, and a head covering such as a wimple and veil. 

This dress is constructed as a tunic style dress,  A blue bell-sleeved over dress, or gown, worn over a green and white underdress, with a chemise under that.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Underdress – Linen, including non-flax linens
    • Overdress – Wool
    • Wimple/veil – Linen or silk for high status women
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Underdress – linen, linen blends, cottons
    • Overdresses – Wool blends, linens, linen blends, some heaver cottons
    • Wimple/Veil – linen, silk, poly (watch out for candles!)
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Underdress – below the knee, long sleeved, white or off white light fabrics
  • Overdress

  • Headwear
  • Shoes

Accessories

  • Belt
  • Pouch
  • Bag

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic: Figure of Grammatica, from the Hortus Deliciarum – 12th century
Model: Hanne Abendschein
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Basic Entry, Female

1000 CE Female Turkish

deveretallier
Title: 1000 CE Female Turkish
Entry #: GGB2021.020
Alternate Names:  
Year: 1000 CE
Time range:
Era: Early Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Middle East
Countries/cultures: Turkey
Maker: Judor
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: No Information Provided

Intro:

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic:
Model: Judur 020213-20
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1150 CE Female Bliaut Inspired Fantasy Dress 3

deveretallier
Title: 1150 CE Female Bliaut Inspired Fantasy Dress 3
Entry #: GGB2021.035
Alternate Names: Buttercup’s Dress from Princess Bride 
Year: 1150 CE
Time range: 1150-1250’s CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Female
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe, france, england
Maker: Vincent De Vere
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Fantasy based on historic garment

Intro:

Buttercup’s riding Dress from the first part of the Princess Bride.  This movie costume is very similar to a Bliaut.

Women’s or men’s over-garment characterized by the tunic like construction with side closures resulting in a more fitted silhouette.  The attached skirts were full and floor length for women and shorter for men and the sleeves were commonly fitted above the elbow and trumpet shaped or widened out below the elbow.

Description:

Although similar to the basic t tunic dress the differences in the sleeves and the under-bust to waist area distinguish them.  The sleeves vary in style, but predominantly are characterized by the fitted upper sleeve and the widened lower sleeve.  The lower sleeve by be in the form of a trumpet sleeve or as extreme as examples that drag the floor.  A lined sleeve that could be turned back to expose an expensive inner liner would also be seen. 

The other major distinguishing feature is the under-bust puckering of the fabric.  There remains multiple ways to achieve this look, but many have had success by elongating the under-bust to waist dress length by some number of inches and by adding lacing on the side of the dress to achieve the fitted look. Most evidence of the dress is found in areas of French fashion influence.

An Attempt of Buttercup’s dress.  Much like a Bliaut but the sleeve had cuffs that were an adaptation for the movie.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Some think images of fine pleats to represent silks
    • fine wools
    • rich fabrics
    • perhaps linen
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • cottons
    • linen blends
    • wool blends
    • muslin for undergarments
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Underdress
  • Bliaut overdress

  • various head coverings

Accessories

  • a belt wrapped around the body
  • pouch or purse
  • wimple or veiled head covering

Source/Links

https://www.eg.bucknell.edu/~lwittie/sca/garb/bliaut.html

http://danikaulakisart.com/bliaut.pdf

https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/04/28/12th-century-dress-the-bliaut/

Version: 3
date: 3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic: Chartres cathedral ,Angers cathedral, France, sculpture at West Portal (detail of existing Commons image :Image:Angers Cathedral sculpture at west door TTaylor.jpg
Model:
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1150 CE Female Bliaut 4

deveretallier
Title: 1150 CE Female Bliaut 4
Entry #: GGB2021.036
Alternate Names:  
Year: 1150 CE
Time range: 1150-1250’s CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Female
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe, france, england
Maker: Vincent De Vere
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

Women’s or men’s over-garment characterized by the tunic like construction with side closures resulting in a more fitted silhouette.  The attached skirts were full and floor length for women and shorter for men and the sleeves were commonly fitted above the elbow and trumpet shaped or widened out below the elbow.

Description:

Although similar to the basic t tunic dress the differences in the sleeves and the under-bust to waist area distinguish them.  The sleeves vary in style, but predominantly are characterized by the fitted upper sleeve and the widened lower sleeve.  The lower sleeve by be in the form of a trumpet sleeve or as extreme as examples that drag the floor.  A lined sleeve that could be turned back to expose an expensive inner liner would also be seen. 

The other major distinguishing feature is the under-bust puckering of the fabric.  There remains multiple ways to achieve this look, but many have had success by elongating the under-bust to waist dress length by some number of inches and by adding lacing on the side of the dress to achieve the fitted look. Most evidence of the dress is found in areas of French fashion influence.

This bliaut is purple linen with gold silk around the collar as well as lining the sleeves. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Some think images of fine pleats to represent silks
    • fine wools
    • rich fabrics
    • perhaps linen
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • cottons
    • linen blends
    • wool blends
    • muslin for undergarments
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Underdress
  • Bliaut overdress

  • various head coverings

Accessories

  • a belt wrapped around the body
  • pouch or purse
  • wimple or veiled head covering

Source/Links

https://www.eg.bucknell.edu/~lwittie/sca/garb/bliaut.html

http://danikaulakisart.com/bliaut.pdf

https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/04/28/12th-century-dress-the-bliaut/

Version: 3
date: 3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic: Chartres cathedral ,Angers cathedral, France, sculpture at West Portal , Sculptures on the exterior of the Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Chartres
Model:
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1150 CE Female Bliaut 2

deveretallier
Title: 1150 CE Female Bliaut 2
Entry #: GGB2021.034
Alternate Names:  
Year: 1150 CE
Time range: 1150-1250’s CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Female
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe, france, england
Maker: Vincent De Vere
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

Women’s or men’s over-garment characterized by the tunic like construction with side closures resulting in a more fitted silhouette.  The attached skirts were full and floor length for women and shorter for men and the sleeves were commonly fitted above the elbow and trumpet shaped or widened out below the elbow.

Description:

Although similar to the basic t tunic dress the differences in the sleeves and the under-bust to waist area distinguish them.  The sleeves vary in style, but predominantly are characterized by the fitted upper sleeve and the widened lower sleeve.  The lower sleeve by be in the form of a trumpet sleeve or as extreme as examples that drag the floor.  A lined sleeve that could be turned back to expose an expensive inner liner would also be seen. 

The other major distinguishing feature is the under-bust puckering of the fabric.  There remains multiple ways to achieve this look, but many have had success by elongating the under-bust to waist dress length by some number of inches and by adding lacing on the side of the dress to achieve the fitted look. Most evidence of the dress is found in areas of French fashion influence.

This is a simplified bliaut made from blue linen blend fabric constructed in a simplified way.  It lacks decoration or lining but is a very simple to construct garment

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Some think images of fine pleats to represent silks
    • fine wools
    • rich fabrics
    • perhaps linen
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • cottons
    • linen blends
    • wool blends
    • muslin for undergarments
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Underdress
  • Bliaut overdress

  • various head coverings

Accessories

  • a belt wrapped around the body
  • pouch or purse
  • wimple or veiled head covering

Source/Links

https://www.eg.bucknell.edu/~lwittie/sca/garb/bliaut.html

http://danikaulakisart.com/bliaut.pdf

https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/04/28/12th-century-dress-the-bliaut/

Version: 2
date: 3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic: Chartres cathedral ,Angers cathedral, France, sculpture at West Portal , Sculptures on the exterior of the Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Chartres
Model:
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1150 CE Female Bliaut 1

deveretallier
Title: 1150 CE Female Bliaut 1
Entry #: GGB2021.033
Alternate Names:  
Year: 1150 CE
Time range: 1150-1250’s CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Female
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe, france, england
Maker: Vincent De Vere
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

Women’s or men’s over-garment characterized by the tunic like construction with side closures resulting in a more fitted silhouette.  The attached skirts were full and floor length for women and shorter for men and the sleeves were commonly fitted above the elbow and trumpet shaped or widened out below the elbow.

Description:

Although similar to the basic t tunic dress the differences in the sleeves and the under-bust to waist area distinguish them.  The sleeves vary in style, but predominantly are characterized by the fitted upper sleeve and the widened lower sleeve.  The lower sleeve by be in the form of a trumpet sleeve or as extreme as examples that drag the floor.  A lined sleeve that could be turned back to expose an expensive inner liner would also be seen. 

The other major distinguishing feature is the under-bust puckering of the fabric.  There remains multiple ways to achieve this look, but many have had success by elongating the under-bust to waist dress length by some number of inches and by adding lacing on the side of the dress to achieve the fitted look. Most evidence of the dress is found in areas of French fashion influence.

This bliaut is green linen blend decorated with silk around the neck, sleeves and hem.  The sleeves are lined in a bright contrasting red linen blend.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Some think images of fine pleats to represent silks
    • fine wools
    • rich fabrics
    • perhaps linen
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • cottons
    • linen blends
    • wool blends
    • muslin for undergarments
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Underdress
  • Bliaut overdress

  • various head coverings

Accessories

  • a belt wrapped around the body
  • pouch or purse
  • wimple or veiled head covering

Source/Links

https://www.eg.bucknell.edu/~lwittie/sca/garb/bliaut.html

http://danikaulakisart.com/bliaut.pdf

https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/04/28/12th-century-dress-the-bliaut/

Version: 3
date: 3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic: Chartres cathedral ,Angers cathedral, France, sculpture at West Portal , Sculptures on the exterior of the Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Chartres
Model:
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

1150 CE Male Bliaut 1

deveretallier
Title: 1150 CE Male Bliaut 1
Entry #: GGB2021.037
Alternate Names:  
Year: 1150
Time range: 1150-1250’s CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: europe
Countries/cultures: Europe, France, england
Maker:
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

Men’s over-garment characterized by the tunic like construction with side closures resulting in a more fitted silhouette.  The attached skirts were full and shorter than floor length for men and the sleeves were commonly fitted above the elbow and trumpet shaped or widened out below the elbow.

Description:

Although similar to the basic t tunic dress the differences in the sleeves and the chest area distinguish them.  The sleeves vary in style, but predominantly are characterized by the fitted upper sleeve and the widened lower sleeve.  The lower sleeve by be in the form of a trumpet sleeve or as extreme as examples that drag the floor.  A lined sleeve that could be turned back to expose an expensive inner liner would also be seen. 

The other major distinguishing feature is the puckering of the fabric in the torso.  There remains multiple ways to achieve this look, but many have had success by elongating the chest to waist length by some number of inches and by adding lacing on the side of the garment to achieve the fitted look. Most evidence of the style is found in areas of French fashion influence.

This bliaut is purple linen with embroidered applique around the keyhole neck.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Some think images of fine pleats to represent silks
    • fine wools
    • rich fabrics perhaps linen
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • cottons
    • linen blends
    • wool blends muslin for undergarments
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

  • a belt wrapped around the body
  • pouch or purse

Source/Links

Version: 3
date: 3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic: Historiated initial R from the frontispiece of a 12th-century manuscript of St. Gregory’s Moralia in Job, Dijon, Bibl. Municipale, MS 2
Model:
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Basic Entry, Female

1100 CE Female Muslim Al-Andalus

deveretallier
Title: 1100 CE Female Muslim Al-Andalus
Entry #: GGB2021.029
Alternate Names:  
Year: 1100 CE
Time range:
Era: High Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Iberian Peninsula
Countries/cultures: Al-Andalus
Maker: Moira of Aston Tor
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Not Provided

Intro:

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic:
Model: Moira of Aston Tor
Photographer: Vincent de Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

1200 CE Male Wool Cote

deveretallier
Title: 1200 CE Male Wool Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.041
Alternate Names: Gown, Frock coat, Tunic, over tunic, 
Year: 1200
Time range: 1100-1400 CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker: Gwen A’Brooke
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A loose tunic like garment commonly with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Extending from below the waste to below the knee with long sleeves.

Description:

This garment, or variations of it can be seen in many paintings and illustrations that cross over several regions and time frames.  People from many stations in society use this functional garment, from laborers to merchants and higher. Varying slightly from its beginnings before 1100CE and fading in fashion for all but laborers late in period.

In general it is slightly more tailored tunic with the neck hole held closed by use of buttons rather than the earlier broaches.  Buttons may just close the neck hole, extend part way down the chest or to the bottom of the garment.  The cut is usually full producing a baggy garment belted at the waste and bloused over the belt.  Some assign the length of the garment to station, with average workmen wearing it shorter to the more wealthy merchants wearing a longer garment.

Likely worn with an undershirt and in some cases a simple doublet as well as hosen or trews.

Sometimes underrepresented in the SCA, cotes can easily produce a medieval look with an easily constructed garment.

This example has layers of cotes with a tight neck hole.  Split for ease of movement below the waist.  These are very tunic like cotes.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool
    • linen
    • brocade
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • wool blends
    • linen blends
    • cottons
    • lighter weight upholstery fabrics that simulate period patterns
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Cote
  • Under Tunic

  • possibly a doublet
  • pants or braes/hosen

Accessories

  • belt
  • pouch
  • hat
  • shoes

Source/Links

The Medieval Tailors Assistant, by Sarah Thursfield, has instructions on constructing such

Version:3
date: 2/27/2021
Source of Period Pic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:48-aspetti_di_vita_quotidiana_ubriachezza_Taccuino_Sanitatis_Shoes.jpg
Model: Ulfr Thyrison
Photographer: Vincent De Vere