Full Entry, Male

1200 CE Male Wool Cote

Title: 1200 CE Male Wool Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.041
Alternate Names: Gown, Frock coat, Tunic, over tunic, 
Year: 1200
Time range: 1100-1400 CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker: Gwen A’Brooke
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples


A loose tunic like garment commonly with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Extending from below the waste to below the knee with long sleeves.


This garment, or variations of it can be seen in many paintings and illustrations that cross over several regions and time frames.  People from many stations in society use this functional garment, from laborers to merchants and higher. Varying slightly from its beginnings before 1100CE and fading in fashion for all but laborers late in period.

In general it is slightly more tailored tunic with the neck hole held closed by use of buttons rather than the earlier broaches.  Buttons may just close the neck hole, extend part way down the chest or to the bottom of the garment.  The cut is usually full producing a baggy garment belted at the waste and bloused over the belt.  Some assign the length of the garment to station, with average workmen wearing it shorter to the more wealthy merchants wearing a longer garment.

Likely worn with an undershirt and in some cases a simple doublet as well as hosen or trews.

Sometimes underrepresented in the SCA, cotes can easily produce a medieval look with an easily constructed garment.

This example has layers of cotes with a tight neck hole.  Split for ease of movement below the waist.  These are very tunic like cotes.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool
    • linen
    • brocade
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • wool blends
    • linen blends
    • cottons
    • lighter weight upholstery fabrics that simulate period patterns
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Cote
  • Under Tunic

  • possibly a doublet
  • pants or braes/hosen


  • belt
  • pouch
  • hat
  • shoes


The Medieval Tailors Assistant, by Sarah Thursfield, has instructions on constructing such

date: 2/27/2021
Source of Period Pic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:48-aspetti_di_vita_quotidiana_ubriachezza_Taccuino_Sanitatis_Shoes.jpg
Model: Ulfr Thyrison
Photographer: Vincent De Vere