Tag: Confidence: Image Examples

Title: 1350 CE Male Cotehardie 2
Entry #: GGB2021.055
Alternate Names: Cote
Year: 1350 CE
Time range: 1340-1400 CE
Era: High Medieval
Gender: Male
region: central europe
Countries/cultures: Germany
Maker: Lisette Reuss
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Example

Intro:

Fitted male coat forming the outer layer or the middle layer of an ensemble

Description:

In some areas in Western Europe, male garments became more fitted in the 1300s. The unfitted cotes became the tailored and fitted cotehardies. Layers associated with cotehardies would be a linen undershirt, sometimes an early form of the doublet and braies and hosen. Layers over the cotehardie could be gowns and houppelandes

In some cases the cotehardies are shorter to the point of reaching just to the crotch depth. Others are seen longer to the point of knee length. Some have decorative dagged edges. They often feature a large number of closely spaced buttons

Male cotehardies could have long or shorter sleeves including short sleeves showing off the doublet below, sometimes featuring sleeve streamers. The sleeves of the cotehardie or the layer under the cotehardie are very tight.

This cotehardie is done in the German style with a baggier upper sleeve and is worn with breis and hosen. A hat and coif are warn on the head and turn shoes for the feet

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool
- silks
- brocades
- velvets
Ornamentation:
- cloth or metal buttons

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- cottons
- linens
- linen blends
- wool blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

linen undershirt
likely an early form of the doublet
. Turn shoes, slippers or low boots

braies and hosen
Layers over the cotehardie could be gowns and houppelandes

Accessories

low slung belts, around the hips
pouches

garters
hood

Source/Links

http://starsandgarters.org/2020/10/04/patterning-fitted-garments/

Version: 2
date: 2/26/21
Source of Period Pic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Bologna_marriage_men.jpg
Model: Johan der hund
Photographer: Vincent de Vere

1350 CE Male Cotehardie 1

Title: 1350 CE Male Cotehardie 1
Entry #: GGB2021.054
Alternate Names: Cote
Year: 1350 CE
Time range: 1340-1400 CE
Era: High Medieval
Gender: Male
region: Western europe, central europe
Countries/cultures: France, England, germany
Maker: Vincent de Vere
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Example

Intro:

Fitted male coat forming the outer layer or the middle layer of an ensemble

Description:

This cotehardie is an earlier style of the garment patterned off of the men’s wedding garment from the wedding of Nicolo da Bologna, being knee length and not overly tight below the waist line and a with a matching hood. This garment is parti colored made from brocaded cotton fabric with silk trim.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool
- silks
- brocades
- velvets
Ornamentation:
- cloth or metal buttons

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- cottons
- linens
- linen blends
- wool blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

linen undershirt
likely an early form of the doublet
. Turn shoes, slippers or low boots

braies and hosen
Layers over the cotehardie could be gowns and houppelandes

Accessories

low slung belts, around the hips
pouches

garters
hood

Source/Links

http://starsandgarters.org/2020/10/04/patterning-fitted-garments/

Version: 2
date: 2/26/21
Source of Period Pic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Bologna_marriage_men.jpg
Model:
Photographer: Vincent de Vere

Female, Full Entry

1370 CE Female, Cotehardie 6

Title: 1370 CE Female, Cotehardie 6
Entry #: GGB2021.052
Alternate Names: Gothic Fitted Dress
Year: 1370
Time range: 1350-1400 CE
Era: High Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Western europe, central europe
Countries/cultures: France, England,
Maker: Vincent de Vere
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

Fitted female garment forming an outer or middle layer.

Description:

As female garments became more fitted in the 1300s the unfitted tunic like dresses became more tailored and fitted.

A loose shift or slip like garment could be worn as a base layer. There is limited evidence for underwear. The bust could be supported with just the fitted layers.

A kirtle layer worn between the shift and the cotehardie could be laced up the front and the sleeves could be buttoned or laced. The kirtle layer is often fitted as to be supportive in the bust and not as long as the cotehardie layer.

The cotehardie layer over the kirtle later adds to the support of the bust line. The neck line could be plunging or more modest. The dress is often shown with a large number of closely spaced buttons on a front closure. The sleeves could be short, short with sleeve streamers (a very stereotypical cotehardie look) or longer. Some examples extend over the hand almost to the fingers. The cotehardie layer would be floor length. The belt is often shown slung low on the hips.

This example is a Red Linen cotehardie over a white kirtle

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- fine cloths
- silks
- brocades
- fine wools
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silks
- linens
- linen blends with rayon or cotton
- brocades.
- Some cotton poly brocades can work to mimic the look of rich brocades, but the higher the poly content the more unpleasant the garment is to wear.
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Slip/shift
Kirtle Cotehardie
purse

coifs/undercaps/hoods
belt
turnshoes

Accessories

Source/Links

http://starsandgarters.org/2020/10/04/patterning-fitted-garments/

Version: 2
date: 2/26/2021
Source of Period Pic:
Model:
Photographer: Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1380 CE Female Kirtle and Cote

Title: 1380 CE Female Kirtle and Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.061
Alternate Names: Cotehardie, gothic fitted gown
Year: 1380 CE
Time range: 1350-1400 CE
Era: Late Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Western europe
Countries/cultures: France, england
Maker: Avery Quatremaine
Difficulty: 4
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

Fitted female garment forming an outer or middle layer including the foundational garments.

Description:

Red wool cote (in this case similar to other entries on cotehardies) over an unseen kirtle supportive layer. Seen with accurate accessories of an apron, hood and veil.

As female garments became more fitted in the 1300s the unfitted tunic like dresses became more tailored and fitted.

A loose shift or slip like garment could be worn as a base layer. There is limited evidence for underwear. The bust could be supported with just the fitted layers.

A kirtle layer worn between the shift and the cote could be laced up the front and the sleeves could be buttoned or laced. The kirtle layer is often fitted as to be supportive in the bust and not as long as the cotehardie layer.

The cote layer over the kirtle later adds to the support of the bust line. The neck line could be plunging or more modest. The dress is often shown with a large number of closely spaced buttons on a front closure. The sleeves could be short, short with sleeve streamers (a very stereotypical cote look) or longer. Some examples extend over the hand almost to the fingers. The cotehardie layer would be floor length. The belt is often shown slung low on the hips.

This is a case where the person who made the garment prefers to call this a cote, where others would call it a cotehardie or a gothic fitted dress.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Cote – wool, silks,
- Kirtle – Wool, linens
- Underdress – linen
- Hood – wool
- Apron – linen
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Cote – wool blends, linens, linen blends, some cottons, silks, silk blends
- Kirtle – Wool blends, linens, linen blends, some cottons
- Underdress – linen, linen blends, some cottons
- Hood – wool, wool blends, Linen, linen blends, some cottons
- Apron – linen, linen blends, cottons
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Cote (Cotehardie)
kirtle

underdress/shift/slip
hose (knee high)

Accessories

Hoods – in this case a liripipe hood
belt

purse
turn shoes or slippers

Source/Links

http://starsandgarters.org/2020/10/04/patterning-fitted-garments/

Version: 2
date: 3/1/2021
Source of Period Pic:
Model: Avery Quatremaine
Photographer: Vincent de Vere

1350 CE Male Cotehardie 7

Title: 1350 CE Male Cotehardie 7
Entry #: GGB2021.060
Alternate Names: Cote
Year: 1350 CE
Time range: 1340-1400 CE
Era: High Medieval
Gender: Male
region: Western europe, central europe
Countries/cultures: France, England, germany
Maker: Vincent de Vere
Difficulty: 3
Confidence: Image Example

Intro:

Fitted male coat forming the outer layer or the middle layer of an ensemble

Description:

This cotehardie is brocaded fabric with a silk lining featuring a flared skirt

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool
- silks
- brocades
- velvets
Ornamentation:
- cloth or metal buttons

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- cottons
- linens
- linen blends
- wool blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

linen undershirt
likely an early form of the doublet
. Turn shoes, slippers or low boots

braies and hosen
Layers over the cotehardie could be gowns and houppelandes

Accessories

low slung belts, around the hips
pouches

garters
hood

Source/Links

http://starsandgarters.org/2020/10/04/patterning-fitted-garments/

Version: 2
date: 2/26/21
Source of Period Pic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Bologna_marriage_men.jpg
Model:
Photographer: Vincent de Vere

1300 CE Male Linen Cote

Title: 1300 CE Male Linen Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.045
Alternate Names: Gown, Frock coat, Tunic, over tunic,
Year: 1300 CE
Time range: 1100-1400 CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker:
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A loose tunic like garment with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Extending from below the waste to below the knee with long sleeves.

Description:

This garment, or variations of it can be seen in many paintings and illustrations that cross over several regions and time frames. People from many stations in society use this functional garment, from laborers to merchants and higher. Varying slightly from its beginnings before 1100CE and fading in fashion for all but laborers late in period.

In general it is slightly more tailored tunic with the neck hole held closed by use of buttons rather than the earlier broaches. Buttons may just close the neck hole, extend part way down the chest or to the bottom of the garment. The cut is usually full producing a baggy garment belted at the waste and bloused over the belt. Some assign the length of the garment to station, with average workmen wearing it shorter to the more wealthy merchants wearing a longer garment.

Likely worn with an undershirt and in some cases a simple doublet as well as hosen or trews.

Sometimes underrepresented in the SCA, cotes can easily produce a medieval look with an easily constructed garment.

This example is a loose tunic like cote with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Worn with riding boots. A heraldic patch can be seen on the chest.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
- linen
- brocades
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- wool blends
- linen blends
- cottons
- lighter weight upholstery fabrics that simulate period patterns
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Cote
under tunic
possibly a doublet

pants or breis/hosen
Could be covered by a surcote

Accessories

hat
shoes

belt
pouch

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 2/25/2021
Source of Period Pic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:48-aspetti_di_vita_quotidiana_ubriachezza_Taccuino_Sanitatis_Shoes.jpg
Model: Thaddeus Ellenbock
Photographer: Vincent de Vere

Female, Full Entry

1370 CE Female, Cotehardie 7

Title: 1370 CE Female, Cotehardie 7
Entry #: GGB2021.053
Alternate Names: Gothic Fitted Dress
Year: 1370
Time range: 1350-1400 CE
Era: High Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Western europe, central europe
Countries/cultures: France, England,
Maker: Vincent de Vere
Difficulty: 3
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

Fitted female garment forming an outer or middle layer.

Description:

Gold silk cotehardie shown here without a kirtle

As female garments became more fitted in the 1300s the unfitted tunic like dresses became more tailored and fitted.

A loose shift or slip like garment could be worn as a base layer. There is limited evidence for underwear. The bust could be supported with just the fitted layers.

A kirtle layer worn between the shift and the cotehardie could be laced up the front and the sleeves could be buttoned or laced. The kirtle layer is often fitted as to be supportive in the bust and not as long as the cotehardie layer.

The cotehardie layer over the kirtle later adds to the support of the bust line. The neck line could be plunging or more modest. The dress is often shown with a large number of closely spaced buttons on a front closure. The sleeves could be short, short with sleeve streamers (a very stereotypical cotehardie look) or longer. Some examples extend over the hand almost to the fingers. The cotehardie layer would be floor length. The belt is often shown slung low on the hips.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- fine cloths
- silks
- brocades
- fine wools
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silks
- linens
- linen blends with rayon or cotton
- brocades.
- Some cotton poly brocades can work to mimic the look of rich brocades, but the higher the poly content the more unpleasant the garment is to wear.
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Slip/shift
Kirtle Cotehardie
purse

coifs/undercaps/hoods
belt
turnshoes

Accessories

Source/Links

http://starsandgarters.org/2020/10/04/patterning-fitted-garments/

Version: 2
date: 2/26/2021
Source of Period Pic:
Model:
Photographer: Vincent De Vere

1380 CE Male Houppelande 1