Full Entry, Male

1380 CE Male Houppelande 1

Title1380 CE Male Houppelande 1
Entry #GGB2021.062
Alternate Names Gown, houpelande, poun, pellanda
Year1380
Time range1360-1430
EraLate Medieval
GenderMale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesEngland, France
MakerRobert Rubow
Difficulty5
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

The houppelande is an outermost layer of dress, which was worn by middle-to-upper classes, both men and women. It was worn over a more fitted undergarment. It is identified by volumes of fabric neatly pleated into a belt, and visually balanced by a large hat.

Description:

Men wore varying lengths, depending on the fashion of the time and possibly the age of the wearer. Women wore them long, often breaking on the floor. Sleeve style varied by region and time as well, from a straight construction to wide and open, or wide and closed again at the wrist.

Necklines and sleeves started similar to cotehardies, and varied to high buttoned collars and folded down collars. Fabrics were colorful, sometimes brocaded, and often lined to contrast. Later, the female houppelande was tightened at the sleeve, a deep V left in the neck, and became the ‘Burgundian’ gown.

Layers under the Houppelande include base layers of shifts/under dresses, a kirtle or supportive layer, a cote, dress, gown or cotehardie layer and the outer houppelande

First seen in documentation in 1359 CE, the garments seem to have evolved from other outer wear such as garde-corps or herigauts, warm, billowy outer layers pulled over the head. 

Houppelande in pic is made from a rich brocade worn over a blue cotehardie

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen
    • silk
    • tabby and brocade patterning
  • Ornamentation:
    • embroidery
    • lined with contrasting fur

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • wool blends
    • linen
    • linen blends
    • cotton damasks
  • Ornamentation:
    • costume or fake fur
    • contrasting fabric

Ensemble Components

  • undershirt
  • doublet

  • cotehardie/cote/gown
  • braies/undergarments

Accessories

  • shoes with a point,
  • hose & garters
  • belt
  • hat

Source/Links

http://www.virtue.to/articles/circle_houp.html

http://medievalweddingdresses.ideasforweddings.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/houppelande3.jpg, http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/2482968742/in/photostream/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/2711997808/in/photostream/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/17024607@N08/2143873264, http://wp.bymymeasure.com/526/houppelande-belts-of-the-early-15th-century

Version2
date3/3/2021
Source of Period Pichttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Houppelande#/media/File:Prayer_book_of_Maria_d’Harcourt_-_Staatsbibliothek_zu_Berlin_MsGermQuart42_-_f19v.jpg
ModelRobert Rubow
PhotographerVincent De Vere