Female, Full Entry

1380 CE Female Kirtle and Cote

Title: 1380 CE Female Kirtle and Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.061
Alternate Names: Cotehardie, gothic fitted gown 
Year: 1380 CE
Time range: 1350-1400 CE
Era: Late Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Western europe
Countries/cultures: France, england
Maker: Avery Quatremaine
Difficulty: 4
Confidence: Image Examples


Fitted female garment forming an outer or middle layer including the foundational garments.  


Red wool cote (in this case similar to other entries on cotehardies) over an unseen kirtle supportive layer.  Seen with accurate accessories of an apron, hood and veil.

As female garments became more fitted in the 1300s the unfitted tunic like dresses became more tailored and fitted. 

A loose shift or slip like garment could be worn as a base layer.  There is limited evidence for underwear.  The bust could be supported with just the fitted layers.

A kirtle layer worn between the shift and the cote could be laced up the front and the sleeves could be buttoned or laced.  The kirtle layer is often fitted as to be supportive in the bust and not as long as the cotehardie layer. 

The cote layer over the kirtle later adds to the support of the bust line.  The neck line could be plunging or more modest.  The dress is often shown with a large number of closely spaced buttons on a front closure. The sleeves could be short, short with sleeve streamers (a very stereotypical cote look) or longer.  Some examples extend over the hand almost to the fingers.  The cotehardie layer would be floor length.  The belt is often shown slung low on the hips. 

This is a case where the person who made the garment prefers to call this a cote, where others would call it a cotehardie or a gothic fitted dress. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Cote – wool, silks,
    • Kirtle – Wool, linens
    • Underdress – linen
    • Hood – wool
    • Apron – linen
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Cote – wool blends, linens, linen blends, some cottons, silks, silk blends
    • Kirtle – Wool blends, linens, linen blends, some cottons
    • Underdress – linen, linen blends, some cottons
    • Hood – wool, wool blends, Linen,  linen blends, some cottons
    • Apron – linen, linen blends, cottons
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Cote (Cotehardie)
  • kirtle

  • underdress/shift/slip
  • hose (knee high)


  • Hoods – in this case a liripipe hood
  • belt
  • purse
  • turn shoes or slippers




Version: 2
date: 3/1/2021
Source of Period Pic:
Model: Avery Quatremaine
Photographer: Vincent de Vere

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