Tag: 1100

Full Entry, Male

1200 CE Male Wool Cote

deveretallier
Title: 1200 CE Male Wool Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.041
Alternate Names: Gown, Frock coat, Tunic, over tunic, 
Year: 1200
Time range: 1100-1400 CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker: Gwen A’Brooke
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A loose tunic like garment commonly with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Extending from below the waste to below the knee with long sleeves.

Description:

This garment, or variations of it can be seen in many paintings and illustrations that cross over several regions and time frames.  People from many stations in society use this functional garment, from laborers to merchants and higher. Varying slightly from its beginnings before 1100CE and fading in fashion for all but laborers late in period.

In general it is slightly more tailored tunic with the neck hole held closed by use of buttons rather than the earlier broaches.  Buttons may just close the neck hole, extend part way down the chest or to the bottom of the garment.  The cut is usually full producing a baggy garment belted at the waste and bloused over the belt.  Some assign the length of the garment to station, with average workmen wearing it shorter to the more wealthy merchants wearing a longer garment.

Likely worn with an undershirt and in some cases a simple doublet as well as hosen or trews.

Sometimes underrepresented in the SCA, cotes can easily produce a medieval look with an easily constructed garment.

This example has layers of cotes with a tight neck hole.  Split for ease of movement below the waist.  These are very tunic like cotes.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool
    • linen
    • brocade
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • wool blends
    • linen blends
    • cottons
    • lighter weight upholstery fabrics that simulate period patterns
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Cote
  • Under Tunic

  • possibly a doublet
  • pants or braes/hosen

Accessories

  • belt
  • pouch
  • hat
  • shoes

Source/Links

The Medieval Tailors Assistant, by Sarah Thursfield, has instructions on constructing such

Version:3
date: 2/27/2021
Source of Period Pic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:48-aspetti_di_vita_quotidiana_ubriachezza_Taccuino_Sanitatis_Shoes.jpg
Model: Ulfr Thyrison
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

1200 CE Male Linen Cote

deveretallier
Title: 1200 CE Male Linen Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.041
Alternate Names: Gown, Frock coat, Tunic, over tunic, 
Year: 1200
Time range: 1100-1400 CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker: Vincent De Vere
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A loose tunic like garment commonly with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Extending from below the waste to below the knee with long sleeves.

Description:

This garment, or variations of it can be seen in many paintings and illustrations that cross over several regions and time frames.  People from many stations in society use this functional garment, from laborers to merchants and higher. Varying slightly from its beginnings before 1100CE and fading in fashion for all but laborers late in period.

In general it is slightly more tailored tunic with the neck hole held closed by use of buttons rather than the earlier broaches.  Buttons may just close the neck hole, extend part way down the chest or to the bottom of the garment.  The cut is usually full producing a baggy garment belted at the waste and bloused over the belt.  Some assign the length of the garment to station, with average workmen wearing it shorter to the more wealthy merchants wearing a longer garment.

Likely worn with an undershirt and in some cases a simple doublet as well as hosen or trews.

Sometimes underrepresented in the SCA, cotes can easily produce a medieval look with an easily constructed garment.

This example has layers of cotes with a tight neck hole.  Split for ease of movement below the waist.  These are very tunic like cotes.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool
    • linen
    • brocade
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • wool blends
    • linen blends
    • cottons
    • lighter weight upholstery fabrics that simulate period patterns
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Cote
  • Under Tunic

  • possibly a doublet
  • pants or braes/hosen

Accessories

  • belt
  • pouch
  • hat
  • shoes

Source/Links

The Medieval Tailors Assistant, by Sarah Thursfield, has instructions on constructing such

Version:2
date: 2/27/2021
Source of Period Pic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:48-aspetti_di_vita_quotidiana_ubriachezza_Taccuino_Sanitatis_Shoes.jpg
Model:
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1200 CE Female Sideless Surcote 2

deveretallier
Title: 1200 CE Female Sideless Surcote 2
Entry #: GGB2021.040
Alternate Names: pellote 
Year: 1200 CE
Time range: 1100-1300’s CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Female
region: European, western europe
Countries/cultures: England, france, spain
Maker: Beocca the Fair of Hastings
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: extant examples

Intro:

Outer layer garment with deeply cut arm holes worn with often form fitted undergarments that came in many variations and with examples for all sexes.

Description:

Sideless Surcotes are easily spotted by the deeply cut arm holes.  They commonly expose a more fitted garment beneath such as kirtles or fitted cotes. 

Parti-colored sideless surcote worn with a mantled hood.

These over dresses could vary from heraldic lesser modified cotes to heavily modified overdresses with narrow vertical front bands.  Easily sewn and open for many variations and modifications. Used in many parts of Europe during the first part of the high middle ages

Variations can include constructed materials, fur trim, heraldic displays, variations of depth of armhole, width of plastron (front and back bands,) width of hem, style of fitted under dress.

Inspiration Images

Medieval Combat Society

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Salk
    • celvets
    • brocades
    • fine wools
    • extant examples found constructed from silk damasks and jacquard
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Silks
    • velvets
    • brocades
    • fine to medium coarse wools
    • wool blends
    • linen and linen blends
    • substituting poly velvets for silk velvets, or cotton velveteen – Not stretch velvets or crushed velvets.
  • Ornamentation:
    • High quality fake furs for trimming and lining. 

Ensemble Components

  • Sideless Surcote
  • Kirtle or cote
  • Underdress/undergarments

  • knee length hose
  • turn shoes or slippers
  • mantled hood

Accessories

  • belt
  • (worn under the surcote and over the fitted garment)
  • coif/hat/veil – works well with a barbette and fillet

Source/Links

http://www.wodefordhall.com/surcote.htm

http://www.bayrose.org/AandS/handouts/Sideless_Surcoat_web.pdf

Version: 2
date: 3/6/21
Source of Period Pic: http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/O0000311.html
Model: Beocca the Fair of Hastings
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1200 CE Female Sideless Surcote 1

deveretallier
Title: 1200 CE Female Sideless Surcote 1
Entry #: GGB2021.039
Alternate Names: pellote 
Year: 1200 CE
Time range: 1100-1300’s CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Female
region: European, western europe
Countries/cultures: England, france, spain
Maker: Jacqueline Storme
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: extant examples

Intro:

Outer layer garment with deeply cut arm holes worn with often form fitted undergarments that came in many variations and with examples for all sexes.

Description:

Sideless Surcotes are easily spotted by the deeply cut arm holes.  They commonly expose a more fitted garment beneath such as kirtles or fitted cotes. 

Parti-colored sideless surcote worn with a mantled hood.

These over dresses could vary from heraldic lesser modified cotes to heavily modified overdresses with narrow vertical front bands.  Easily sewn and open for many variations and modifications. Used in many parts of Europe during the first part of the high middle ages

Variations can include constructed materials, fur trim, heraldic displays, variations of depth of armhole, width of plastron (front and back bands,) width of hem, style of fitted under dress.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Salk
    • celvets
    • brocades
    • fine wools
    • extant examples found constructed from silk damasks and jacquard
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Silks
    • velvets
    • brocades
    • fine to medium coarse wools
    • wool blends
    • linen and linen blends
    • substituting poly velvets for silk velvets, or cotton velveteen – Not stretch velvets or crushed velvets.
  • Ornamentation:
    • High quality fake furs for trimming and lining. 

Ensemble Components

  • Sideless Surcote
  • Kirtle or cote
  • Underdress/undergarments

  • knee length hose
  • turn shoes or slippers
  • mantled hood

Accessories

  • belt
  • (worn under the surcote and over the fitted garment)
  • coif/hat/veil – works well with a barbette and fillet

Source/Links

http://www.wodefordhall.com/surcote.htm

http://www.bayrose.org/AandS/handouts/Sideless_Surcoat_web.pdf

Version: 2
date: 3/6/21
Source of Period Pic: http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/O0000311.html
Model: Jacqueline Storme
Photographer: Jacqueline Storme
  

Full Entry, Male

1250 CE Franciscan Friar monk Habit 1

deveretallier
1250 CE Franciscan Friar monk Habit 1
Entry #: GGB2021.043
Alternate Names: Friar Robes, monks robes 
Year: 1250
Time range: 1250 – end of period
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker: Ida Lundy
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: Extant Examples

Intro:

Long belted tunic with a belt of leather, cloth or rope.  A scapula, the tabard like rectangle of cloth with a cowl or hood attached. 

Description:

Generally unadorned, color of the fabric denotes particular religious order the wearer belongs to. The belt could be leather but some references say rope was more common. 

Over time the colors of the different orders became nearly standardized.  The Benedictine Monks would dye the wool they used to make their habits leading to names such as Black Monks or Blackfriar.  The Cistercian Monks who arose in the 1100’s opted for undyed wool to show their adherence to poverty.  This led to names like White monks or Grayfriars.  There ae still many places across England with location names of Blackfriars and Grayfriars. 

This attempt at a Franciscan habit wool blend for the long tunic and brown wool for the hooded mantle. Franciscan order arose shortly after the Cistercian order.

Any portrayal of religious personages at events should be done with respect to the beliefs of others.   

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • linen
    • cotton
    • linen blends
    • wool blends
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • tunic
  • scapula hood

  • belt

Accessories

  • pouch
  • rosary

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic: Life of St. Bernard of Clairvaux by Jörg Breu the Elder 1500
Model: Vincent De Vere
Photographer: Vincent De Vere
  

Female, Full Entry

1200 CE European Female Cote

deveretallier
Title: 1200 CE European Female Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.038
Alternate Names: Gown, Frock coat, Tunic, over tunic 
Year: 1200 CE
Time range: 1100-1400 CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Female
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe, French, English
Maker: Ayla Von Johanaa
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A loose tunic dress like garment with a wide neck hole pulled over the head. Used in many parts of Europe for a wide range of the high meddle ages.

Description:

This garment, or variations of it can be seen in many paintings and illustrations that cross over several regions and time frames.  People from many stations in society use this functional garment, from laborers to merchants and higher. Varying slightly from its beginnings before 1100CE and fading in fashion for all but laborers late in period.

In general it is slightly more tailored tunic with the neck hole held closed by use of buttons rather than the earlier broaches.  Buttons may just close the neck hole.  The cut is usually full producing a baggy garment belted at the waste.  Worn with an underdress and sometimes a kirtle or other dress layer and possibly with a gown outer layer. 

Sometimes underrepresented in the SCA, cotes can easily produce a medieval look with an easily constructed garment.

Red dress with embroidery along cuffs, neckline and hem line worn with a mantled hood.  This was a dress constructed in the tunic like style similar to examples from 1100’s to 1200’s with slight bell sleeves.  Worn over a tunic style underdress.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wools, silks
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • wool blends
    • linen blends
    • cottons
    • lighter weight upholstery fabrics that simulate period patterns
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Cote
  • underdress
  • veil

  • hood
  • coif
  • could be covered by a surcote

Accessories

  • belt
  • pouch
  • shoes

Source/Links

The Medieval Tailors Assistant, by Sarah Thursfield, has instructions on constructing such garments

Version: 2
date: 2/27/2021
Source of Period Pic: 1- the Morgan Bible, c. 1250: the wife of Manoah ,2- 1200’s, Strasbourg Cathedral and Strasbourg
Model: Ayla Von Johanaa
Photographer: Vincent de Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

1300 CE Male Linen Cote

deveretallier
Title: 1300 CE Male Linen Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.045
Alternate Names: Gown, Frock coat, Tunic, over tunic, 
Year: 1300 CE
Time range: 1100-1400 CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker:
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A loose tunic like garment with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Extending from below the waste to below the knee with long sleeves.

Description:

This garment, or variations of it can be seen in many paintings and illustrations that cross over several regions and time frames.  People from many stations in society use this functional garment, from laborers to merchants and higher. Varying slightly from its beginnings before 1100CE and fading in fashion for all but laborers late in period.

In general it is slightly more tailored tunic with the neck hole held closed by use of buttons rather than the earlier broaches.  Buttons may just close the neck hole, extend part way down the chest or to the bottom of the garment.  The cut is usually full producing a baggy garment belted at the waste and bloused over the belt.  Some assign the length of the garment to station, with average workmen wearing it shorter to the more wealthy merchants wearing a longer garment.

Likely worn with an undershirt and in some cases a simple doublet as well as hosen or trews.

Sometimes underrepresented in the SCA, cotes can easily produce a medieval look with an easily constructed garment.

This example is a loose tunic like cote with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Worn with riding boots.  A heraldic patch can be seen on the chest.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen
    • brocades
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • wool blends
    • linen blends
    • cottons
    • lighter weight upholstery fabrics that simulate period patterns
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Cote
  • under tunic
  • possibly a doublet

  • pants or breis/hosen
  • Could be covered by a surcote

Accessories

  • hat
  • shoes
  • belt
  • pouch

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 2/25/2021
Source of Period Pic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:48-aspetti_di_vita_quotidiana_ubriachezza_Taccuino_Sanitatis_Shoes.jpg
Model: Thaddeus Ellenbock
Photographer: Vincent de Vere
  

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Simple Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle

deveretallier
TitleSimple Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #GGC2021.031
Alternate NamesBelt
Year1350
Time rangeAntiquity to end of period
EraAntiquity to end of period
GenderUnisex
regionEurope
Countries/culturesEurope
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty1
ConfidenceExtant Example

Intro:

 Various belts.      

Description:

This is a modern buckle taken from a worn out belt and attached to a strip of leather to form a belt. This easily made belt works very well for people new to the SCA.

This reproduction buckle is based an extant example dated to arround 1350 CE, but is very similar to many others from different time periods. It is available through several reputable vendors. It would be an example of a very inexpensive reproduction piece.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Leather
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Leather
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons

Version1
date1/2/2022
Source of Period PicBritish Museum
Model 
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on low turn shoe 1

deveretallier
TitleShoe, slip-on low turn shoe 1
Entry #GGC2022.016
Alternate NamesShoe, turn shoe,
Year1300 CE
Time range1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Eraall
Genderunisex
regionEurope
Countries/culturesEurope
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty3
ConfidenceExtant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes.

Description:

Low slip on shoes that are constructed from 2 pieces of leather. They are sewn inside out and then turned right side out, thus the common name of turn shoes.  Shoes like these, in one form or another, have been used throughout much of the period covered by the SCA.

This pair of shoes had a stiffening sole and tread glued to the shoe after construction.  Although this is a modern consideration, it was done for additional comfort and safety for use at events.  Accommodations like this are common in the SCA.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Leather. 
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • chrome tanned leather doesn’t shape and form that way oak tan/veg tan leather will.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz.  ISBN  9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version1
date1/9/2022
Source of Period PicWolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons
Model 
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on punched turn shoe 1

deveretallier
TitleShoe, slip-on punched turn shoe 1
Entry #GGC2022.019
Alternate NamesShoe, turn shoe,
Year1300 CE
Time range1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Eraall
Genderunisex
regionEurope
Countries/culturesEurope
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty3
ConfidenceExtant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes with punched out decorations       

Description:

Low slip on shoes that are constructed from 2 pieces of leather. They are sewn inside out and then turned right side out, thus the common name of turn shoes.  Shoes like these, in one form or another, have been used throughout the period covered by the SCA

This pair of shoes is decorated by having a pattern of holes punched into the leather before assembling the shoe.  Shoes decorated with punch decorations have survived dating back to Roman times. Sets of shaped punches can be purchased online for not much and the punching of the leather adds less than an hour to the total construction time. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Leather. 
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • chrome tanned leather doesn’t shape and form that way oak tan/veg tan leather will.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz.  ISBN  9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version1
date1/9/2022
Source of Period PicWolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons, Kulturhistorisk Museum, Oslo, Norway. Medieval Exhibition
Model 
PhotographerVincent De Vere