france – Page 4 – SCA Iowa Garb Guide

1410 CE Male Houppelande à mi-jambe

January 5, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1410 CE Male Houppelande à mi-jambe
Entry #	GGB2021.064
Alternate Names	Gown, houpelande, poun, pellanda
Year	1410
Time range	1400-1430
Era	Late Medieval
Gender	Male
region	Western Europe
Countries/cultures	England, France
Maker	Vincent de Vere
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

The houppelande is an outermost layer of dress, which was worn by middle-to-upper classes, both men and women. It was worn over a more fitted undergarment. It is identified by volumes of fabric neatly pleated into a belt, and visually balanced by a large hat.

Additional Images of the garment:

Description:

Men wore houppelandes of varying lengths, depending on the fashion of the time and possibly the age of the wearer. This shorter version of the garments makes it a Houppelande à mi-jambe, more popular in the years following 1400 CE.

Sleeve style varied by region and time as well, from a straight construction to wide and open, or wide and closed again at the wrist.

Necklines and sleeves started similar to cotehardies, and varied to high buttoned collars and folded down collars. Fabrics were colorful, sometimes brocaded, and often lined to contrast. Later, the female houppelande was tightened at the sleeve, a deep V left in the neck, and became the ‘Burgundian’ gown.

Layers under the Houppelande include base layers of undershirt, braies/hosen, doublet, cotehardie and the outer houppelande

First seen in documentation in 1359 CE, the garments seem to have evolved from other outer wear such as garde-corps or herigauts, warm, billowy outer layers pulled over the head.

This Houppelande à mi-jambe is made from budget friendly linen/rayon blend and is reversible.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
- linen
- silk
- tabby and brocade patterning
Ornamentation:
- embroidery
- lined with contrasting fur

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- wool blends
- linen
- linen blends
- cotton damasks
Ornamentation:
- costume or fake fur
- contrasting fabric

Ensemble Components

undershirt
doublet

cotehardie/cote/gown
braies/undergarments

Accessories

shoes with a point,
hose & garters

belt
hat

Source/Links

http://www.virtue.to/articles/circle_houp.html

http://medievalweddingdresses.ideasforweddings.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/houppelande3.jpg, http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/2482968742/in/photostream/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/2711997808/in/photostream/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/17024607@N08/2143873264, http://wp.bymymeasure.com/526/houppelande-belts-of-the-early-15th-century

Version	2
date	3/3/2021
Source of Period Pic	Thames and Hudson pg 206 Statuette from the Dam chimney-piece, Amsterdam
Model	Vincent De Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1400 CE Female Houppelande 1

January 5, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1400 CE Female Houppelande 1
Entry #	GGB2021.063
Alternate Names	Gown, houpelande, poun, pellanda
Year	1380
Time range	1360-1430
Era	Late Medieval
Gender	Female
region	Western Europe
Countries/cultures	England, France
Maker	Josefine del Torre
Difficulty	5
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

Description:

Men wore varying lengths, depending on the fashion of the time and possibly the age of the wearer. Women wore them long, often breaking on the floor. Sleeve style varied by region and time as well, from a straight construction to wide and open, or wide and closed again at the wrist.

Layers under the Houppelande include base layers of shifts/under dresses, a kirtle or supportive layer, a cote, dress, gown or cotehardie layer and the outer houppelande

First seen in documentation in 1359 CE, the garments seem to have evolved from other outer wear such as garde-corps or herigauts, warm, billowy outer layers pulled over the head.

Houppelande in pic is made from a rich brocade worn over a blue cotehardie

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
- linen
- silk
- tabby and brocade patterning
Ornamentation:
- embroidery
- lined with contrasting fur

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- wool blends
- linen
- linen blends
- cotton damasks
Ornamentation:
- costume or fake fur
- contrasting fabric

Ensemble Components

undershirt
doublet
“Middle Layer” such as a cote/cotehardie gowns

Supportive Kirtle
braies/undergarments

Accessories

shoes with a point,
hose & garters
plaited hair

belt
hat – rolls, henins, and dual horns are fashionable

Source/Links

http://www.virtue.to/articles/circle_houp.html

Version	2
date	3/3/2021
Source of Period Pic	https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Houppelande#/media/File:Prayer_book_of_Maria_d’Harcourt_-_Staatsbibliothek_zu_Berlin_MsGermQuart42_-_f19v.jpg
Model	Mirabel Wynne/
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 1

January 5, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 1
Entry #	GGB2021.067
Alternate Names	V neck gown, gown
Year	1450
Time range	1450-1500
Era	Late Medieval
Gender	Female
region	Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	France
Maker	Jehanne Bening
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

“A” shaped dress with “V” shaped neckline, fitted in the torso and spreading widely, often with train from the waist. Wide belt at waist. Worn over fitted kirtle.

Description:

One of the garments that there are many image examples for as this is a time of many surviving artworks. A style of dress seen in many Flemish paintings that show a common set of features including fitted torso with deeply plunging neckline and collar with contrasting fabric or fur lining. The deep neckline displayed an under placket or partlet or kirtle, some displayed without. Sleeves often shown with lined cuffs that are rolled back on the sleeve. Most show no seam at waist or a wide belt covering any such seam. More examples of images showing the waist seam appear closer to 1500CE. Many are displayed as being lined

Under layers would commonly include a shift, slip or some form of underdress, covered by a fitted kirtle and then covered by the gown.

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.

This is a more simple form of the dress and worn on a warmer day. The under layers are simplified and the dress is not as full. Made out of brocaded cotton fabric with a black velvet collar and the red placket exposed by the neckline.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Gown –
  - wools,
  - finely woven wools,
  - brocaded or patterned cloths. Rich textiles,
  - collars featuring velvets and furs.
  - Fur trim
- Kirtle –
  - wool
  - linen
- Underclothes
  - linen
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Gown
  - Some cottons
  - linens
  - Linen blends wool blends
  - brocades
  - some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns.
- Kirtle
  - Linen and linen blends
  - some cottons to lighten the under layers
- Underclothes
  - Linen
  - Linen blends
  - cottons
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Under layers – shift/slip or some form of underdress
gown.

fitted kirtle

Accessories

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.

This is the time of the Henin hat that becomes the stereotypical ‘princess’ hat, various low shoes or slippers, pouches or purses.

Source/Links

http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-gown.html

https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/06/02/how-to-make-a-kirtle-and-a-burgundian-gown/

https://dawnsdressdiary.wordpress.com/2018/01/25/burgundian-v-neck-gown-research/

Version	2
date	3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic	The Whore of Babylon. 1470. Pierpont Morgan MS M.68. Saint Catherine converting the Scholars. Walters Art Museum 37.2487.
Model	Jehanne Bening
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 2

January 5, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 2
Entry #	GGB2021.068
Alternate Names	V neck gown, gown
Year	1450
Time range	1450-1500
Era	Late Medieval
Gender	Female
region	Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	France
Maker	Vincent de Vere
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

“A” shaped dress with “V” shaped neckline, fitted in the torso and spreading widely, often with train from the waist. Wide belt at waist. Worn over fitted kirtle.

Additional Images of the completed garment:

Description:

Under layers would commonly include a shift, slip or some form of underdress, covered by a fitted kirtle and then covered by the gown.

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.

This dress is poly cotton blend brocade with cotton velvet collar and cuffs, red linen kirtle, white linen shift. A yellow silk placket covers most of the red kirtle at the plunging neckline

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Gown –
  - wools,
  - finely woven wools,
  - brocaded or patterned cloths. Rich textiles,
  - collars featuring velvets and furs.
  - Fur trim
- Kirtle –
  - wool
  - linen
- Underclothes
  - linen
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Gown
  - Some cottons
  - linens
  - Linen blends wool blends
  - brocades
  - some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns.
- Kirtle
  - Linen and linen blends
  - some cottons to lighten the under layers
- Underclothes
  - Linen
  - Linen blends
  - cottons
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Under layers – shift/slip or some form of underdress
gown.

fitted kirtle

Accessories

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.

This is the time of the Henin hat that becomes the stereotypical ‘princess’ hat, various low shoes or slippers, pouches or purses.

Source/Links

http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-gown.html

https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/06/02/how-to-make-a-kirtle-and-a-burgundian-gown/

https://dawnsdressdiary.wordpress.com/2018/01/25/burgundian-v-neck-gown-research/

Version	2
date	3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic	The Whore of Babylon. 1470. Pierpont Morgan MS M.68. Saint Catherine converting the Scholars. Walters Art Museum 37.2487.
Model	Kristen Wereszynski
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Basic Entry, Female

1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 3

January 4, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1450 CE Female Burgundian Gown 3
Entry #	GGB2021.069
Alternate Names	V neck gown, gown
Year	1450
Time range	1450-1500
Era	Late Medieval
Gender	Female
region	Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	France
Maker
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

“A” shaped dress with “V” shaped neckline, fitted in the torso and spreading widely, often with train from the waist. Wide belt at waist. Worn over fitted kirtle.

Description:

Under layers would commonly include a shift, slip or some form of underdress, covered by a fitted kirtle and then covered by the gown.

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.

This dress is poly cotton blend brocade with cotton velvet collar and cuffs, red linen kirtle, white linen shift. A yellow silk placket covers most of the red kirtle at the plunging neckline

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Gown –
  - wools,
  - finely woven wools,
  - brocaded or patterned cloths. Rich textiles,
  - collars featuring velvets and furs.
  - Fur trim
- Kirtle –
  - wool
  - linen
- Underclothes
  - linen
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Gown
  - Some cottons
  - linens
  - Linen blends wool blends
  - brocades
  - some poly/cotton upholstery fabrics to achieve the woven in patterns.
- Kirtle
  - Linen and linen blends
  - some cottons to lighten the under layers
- Underclothes
  - Linen
  - Linen blends
  - cottons
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Under layers – shift/slip or some form of underdress
gown.

fitted kirtle

Accessories

Key accessories include the wide belt often made from fabrics as well as many examples of different styles of hats, many becoming elaborate.

This is the time of the Henin hat that becomes the stereotypical ‘princess’ hat, various low shoes or slippers, pouches or purses.

Source/Links

http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-gown.html

https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/06/02/how-to-make-a-kirtle-and-a-burgundian-gown/

https://dawnsdressdiary.wordpress.com/2018/01/25/burgundian-v-neck-gown-research/

Version	2
date	3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic	The Whore of Babylon. 1470. Pierpont Morgan MS M.68. Saint Catherine converting the Scholars. Walters Art Museum 37.2487.
Model	Kristen Wereszynski
Photographer	Vincent De Vere