Confidence: extant examples – Page 2

Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle

January 18, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.032
Alternate Names	Belt
Year	1066 CE
Time range	1000-1200CE
Era	High Medieval
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a reproduction of an extant example buckle and strap end attached to a strip of leather to form a belt.

This reproduction buckle is based on an extant example and was dated to a time range in the high medieval period. It is available through several reputable vendors. It would be an example of a very inexpensive reproduction piece.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

https://armourandcastings.com/en_US/products/prjazhka-e14-2

Norman belt set, Britain, 11-12 c. For 20 mm wide belt.

Version	1
date	1/2/2022
Source of Period Pic	British Museum
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

1100 CE Grayfriar (Cistercian) Habit 1

January 16, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1100 CE Grayfriar (Cistercian) Habit 1
Entry #: GGB2021.032
Alternate Names: Friar Robes, monks robes
Year: 1100 CE
Time range: 1100 – end of period
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker: Vincent De Vere
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: Extant Examples

Intro:

Long belted tunic with a belt of leather, cloth or rope. A scapula, the tabard like rectangle of cloth with a cowl or hood attached.

Description:

Generally unadorned, color of the fabric denotes particular religious order the wearer belongs to. The belt could be leather but some references say rope was more common.

Over time the colors of the different orders became nearly standardized. The Benedictine Monks would dye the wool they used to make their habits leading to names such as Black Monks or Blackfriar. The Cistercian Monks who arose in the 1100’s opted for undyed wool to show their adherence to poverty. This led to names like White monks or Grayfriars. There ae still many places across England with location names of Blackfriars and Grayfriars.

This attempt at a Cistercian habit used linen instead of wool for the long tunic and brown wool for the scapula.

Any portrayal of religious personages at events should be done with respect to the beliefs of others.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen
- cotton
- linen blends
- wool blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

tunic
scapula hood

belt

Accessories

pouch

rosary

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic: Life of St. Bernard of Clairvaux by Jörg Breu the Elder 1500
Model: Vincent De Vere
Photographer: Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1200 CE Female Sideless Surcote 2

January 14, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1200 CE Female Sideless Surcote 2
Entry #: GGB2021.040
Alternate Names: pellote
Year: 1200 CE
Time range: 1100-1300’s CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Female
region: European, western europe
Countries/cultures: England, france, spain
Maker: Beocca the Fair of Hastings
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: extant examples

Intro:

Outer layer garment with deeply cut arm holes worn with often form fitted undergarments that came in many variations and with examples for all sexes.

Description:

Sideless Surcotes are easily spotted by the deeply cut arm holes. They commonly expose a more fitted garment beneath such as kirtles or fitted cotes.

Parti-colored sideless surcote worn with a mantled hood.

These over dresses could vary from heraldic lesser modified cotes to heavily modified overdresses with narrow vertical front bands. Easily sewn and open for many variations and modifications. Used in many parts of Europe during the first part of the high middle ages

Variations can include constructed materials, fur trim, heraldic displays, variations of depth of armhole, width of plastron (front and back bands,) width of hem, style of fitted under dress.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Salk
- celvets
- brocades
- fine wools
- extant examples found constructed from silk damasks and jacquard
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silks
- velvets
- brocades
- fine to medium coarse wools
- wool blends
- linen and linen blends
- substituting poly velvets for silk velvets, or cotton velveteen – Not stretch velvets or crushed velvets.
Ornamentation:
- High quality fake furs for trimming and lining.

Ensemble Components

Sideless Surcote
Kirtle or cote
Underdress/undergarments

knee length hose
turn shoes or slippers
mantled hood

Accessories

belt
(worn under the surcote and over the fitted garment)

coif/hat/veil – works well with a barbette and fillet

Source/Links

http://www.wodefordhall.com/surcote.htm

http://www.bayrose.org/AandS/handouts/Sideless_Surcoat_web.pdf

Version: 2
date: 3/6/21
Source of Period Pic: http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/O0000311.html
Model: Beocca the Fair of Hastings
Photographer: Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

1200 CE Female Sideless Surcote 1

January 14, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1200 CE Female Sideless Surcote 1
Entry #: GGB2021.039
Alternate Names: pellote
Year: 1200 CE
Time range: 1100-1300’s CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Female
region: European, western europe
Countries/cultures: England, france, spain
Maker: Jacqueline Storme
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: extant examples

Intro:

Outer layer garment with deeply cut arm holes worn with often form fitted undergarments that came in many variations and with examples for all sexes.

Description:

Sideless Surcotes are easily spotted by the deeply cut arm holes. They commonly expose a more fitted garment beneath such as kirtles or fitted cotes.

Parti-colored sideless surcote worn with a mantled hood.

Variations can include constructed materials, fur trim, heraldic displays, variations of depth of armhole, width of plastron (front and back bands,) width of hem, style of fitted under dress.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Salk
- celvets
- brocades
- fine wools
- extant examples found constructed from silk damasks and jacquard
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silks
- velvets
- brocades
- fine to medium coarse wools
- wool blends
- linen and linen blends
- substituting poly velvets for silk velvets, or cotton velveteen – Not stretch velvets or crushed velvets.
Ornamentation:
- High quality fake furs for trimming and lining.

Ensemble Components

Sideless Surcote
Kirtle or cote
Underdress/undergarments

knee length hose
turn shoes or slippers
mantled hood

Accessories

belt
(worn under the surcote and over the fitted garment)

coif/hat/veil – works well with a barbette and fillet

Source/Links

http://www.wodefordhall.com/surcote.htm

http://www.bayrose.org/AandS/handouts/Sideless_Surcoat_web.pdf

Version: 2
date: 3/6/21
Source of Period Pic: http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/O0000311.html
Model: Jacqueline Storme
Photographer: Jacqueline Storme

Full Entry, Male

1250 CE Franciscan Friar monk Habit 1

January 14, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

1250 CE Franciscan Friar monk Habit 1
Entry #: GGB2021.043
Alternate Names: Friar Robes, monks robes
Year: 1250
Time range: 1250 – end of period
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker: Ida Lundy
Difficulty: 1
Confidence: Extant Examples

Intro:

Long belted tunic with a belt of leather, cloth or rope. A scapula, the tabard like rectangle of cloth with a cowl or hood attached.

Description:

Generally unadorned, color of the fabric denotes particular religious order the wearer belongs to. The belt could be leather but some references say rope was more common.

This attempt at a Franciscan habit wool blend for the long tunic and brown wool for the hooded mantle. Franciscan order arose shortly after the Cistercian order.

Any portrayal of religious personages at events should be done with respect to the beliefs of others.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen
- cotton
- linen blends
- wool blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

tunic
scapula hood

belt

Accessories

pouch

rosary

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic: Life of St. Bernard of Clairvaux by Jörg Breu the Elder 1500
Model: Vincent De Vere
Photographer: Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Male

Undershirt/Tunic (Saint Louis Shirt)

January 14, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	1200 CE Linen Saint Louis Shirt 1
Entry #	GGC2021.001
Alternate Names	Shirt of Saint Louis the 9^th Undershirt, tunic,
Year	1270 CE
Time range	1200-1300 CE
Era	High medieval
Gender	Male
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	France
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant example

Intro:

A tunic and an outer layer coat associated with Norse cultures. The front panels cross over each Attempt to replicate the surviving shirt labeled as belonging to Saint Louis the 9^th found in Notre-Dame de Paris,

Description:

Wool coat lined with linen decorated with a tablet woven band. The coat is shown over a

One of the many variations of the tunics. This is an attempt to replicate one of the few surviving examples of undershirts. The extant example can be found in the Notre-Dame de Paris and is claimed to belong to Saint Louis the 9^th (1226-1270CE) king of France. Although the exact lineage is not provable, the garment is a representation of n undergarment from before 1300CE.

It is often assumed that the extant example is representative of one of the many variations for methods of construction for undergarments for men. Many illustrations of people from all levels of society survive showing people wearing undergarments but this example gives us insight to the construction technique.

The original is made from linen as is the reconstruction. Undergarments and additional layers are a good way to add to an ensemble as well as serving the purpose that the original served. The undergarments that get sweaty or dirty, are more easily washed than the outer garments that are often more expensive and harder to clean.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Undergarments were generally made from linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Linen
- linen blends
- Linen rayon
- Linen cotton
- cotton

Ensemble Components

Undershirt

Accessories

Source/Links

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shirt_of_Saint_Louis

source image Public Domain

File:Trésors de Saint Louis dans le trésor de Notre-Dame de Paris 2018-05-12.jpg

Version	1
date	12/24/2021
Source of Period Pic	https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shirt_of_Saint_Louis
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent de Vere

Maker:S,Date:2017-9-29,Ver:6,Lens:Kan03,Act:Lar02,E-ve

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Simple Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle

January 9, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Simple Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.031
Alternate Names	Belt
Year	1350
Time range	Antiquity to end of period
Era	Antiquity to end of period
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a modern buckle taken from a worn out belt and attached to a strip of leather to form a belt. This easily made belt works very well for people new to the SCA.

This reproduction buckle is based an extant example dated to arround 1350 CE, but is very similar to many others from different time periods. It is available through several reputable vendors. It would be an example of a very inexpensive reproduction piece.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Version	1
date	1/2/2022
Source of Period Pic	British Museum
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Belt with brass plaques reproduction buckle

January 9, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Belt with brass plaques reproduction buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.032
Alternate Names	Belt
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1200-1400CE
Era	High Medieval
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a narrow leather belt with preproduction buckle and tip purchased from an SCA merchant and the brass plaques are etched with various devices and batches associated with the owner

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather brass, bronze
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Leather, brass
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

buckle and tip based on a Hungarian, c. 1275 Magyar Nemzeti Museum, Budapest belt tip and

Version	1
date	1/2/2022
Source of Period Pic	British Museum
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on punched turn shoe 1

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, slip-on punched turn shoe 1
Entry #	GGC2022.019
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes with punched out decorations

Description:

Low slip on shoes that are constructed from 2 pieces of leather. They are sewn inside out and then turned right side out, thus the common name of turn shoes. Shoes like these, in one form or another, have been used throughout the period covered by the SCA

This pair of shoes is decorated by having a pattern of holes punched into the leather before assembling the shoe. Shoes decorated with punch decorations have survived dating back to Roman times. Sets of shaped punches can be purchased online for not much and the punching of the leather adds less than an hour to the total construction time.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather doesn’t shape and form that way oak tan/veg tan leather will.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons, Kulturhistorisk Museum, Oslo, Norway. Medieval Exhibition
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on low turn shoe 1

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, slip-on low turn shoe 1
Entry #	GGC2022.016
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes.

Description:

This pair of shoes had a stiffening sole and tread glued to the shoe after construction. Although this is a modern consideration, it was done for additional comfort and safety for use at events. Accommodations like this are common in the SCA.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather doesn’t shape and form that way oak tan/veg tan leather will.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere