Male – Page 6 – SCA Iowa Garb Guide

1500 CE German Male Landsknecht

January 1, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1500 CE German Male Landsknecht
Entry #	GGB2021.085
Alternate Names	Waffenkleid, Reitrock, waffenrock
Year	1500
Time range	1470-1550 CE
Era	Late Medieval
Gender	Male
region	Central Europe
Countries/cultures	Germany/Switzerland
Maker
Difficulty	4
Confidence	Image of Example

Intro:

Highly ornamented “war coats” worn by military forces out of areas around Germany and Switzerland. Closely associated with (and evolving into) the more flamboyant Landsknecht mercenaries

Description:

Bright clashing colors, bold stripes mismatched parts. Sleeves and legs with decorative slashes. Wool over garments worn by mercenaries and often scavenged from the best parts found on the battlefield. The top buttons closed and the garment is worn over at least an undershirt, and breeches. Usually seen with long stockings and sometimes with the wide ‘cow mouth’ shoes. The sleeves and skirt portions have a lot of fabric pleated in.

Related terms:

Waffenrock: war coat

Reitrock: riding coat, split for riding

Waffenkleid: war tunic

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool main garments in bright colors, or color combinations.
- linen undergarments
Ornamentation:
- Knitted stockings

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Some poly/cotton brocades to simulate the rich fabrics. Wool blends are easier to find.
- Linen blends and cottons for undergarments.
- Very hard to make these look right without investing in the right materials.
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Coat – wool overlayer with attached skirt
Undershirt – linen shirt

Breeches – wool pants to the knee
Stockings

Accessories

Retailers catering to reenactors sell the cow mouth shoes and striped stockings in vibrant colors.

Belt
pouch/purse.

Source/Links

http://research.fibergeek.com/category/garbclothing/16th-century/landsknecht-waffenrock-1517/

Version	2
date	3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic
Model	Brockman 031113-10
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Basic Entry, Male

1500 CE Male Irish Inonar and Leine

January 1, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1500 CE Male Irish Inonar and Leine
Entry #	GGB2021.087
Alternate Names
Year	1500
Time range
Era	Late medieval
Gender	Male
region	Northern europe
Countries/cultures	Ireland
Maker	Conel O’Carroll
Difficulty	2
Confidence	No information provided

Intro:

A short vest like coat and baggy shirt

Description:

Leine, generally meaning shirt. The Inonar jacket

Inspiration Images

No Information Provided

Common Materials

No Information Provided

Effective Substitutions

No Information Provided

Ensemble Components

No Information Provided

Accessories

No Information Provided

Source/Links

https://reconstructinghistory.com/an-leine-crioch-the-irish-leine-in-the-16th-century/

Version	2
date	3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic
Model	Conel O’Carroll
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Basic Entry, Male

1530 Male Henrician Henchman’s Coat

January 1, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1530 Male Henrician Henchman’s Coat
Entry #	GGB2021.090
Alternate Names	surcote
Year	1530
Time range	1530-1575 CE
Era	Henrician
Gender	Male
region	Western Europe
Countries/cultures	English
Maker	Jayme Jones
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

Coat worn by the Henchmen (servant) of Henry the 8^th court. Coat with pleated skirt worn over a doublet and pants

Description:

Coat much like earlier surcotes making the individual as a servant in a household, Commonly seen with some indication of which household they belong to such as a color combination. Worn over a doublet and pants or breeches with hose and an under layer and braies next to the skin

This example was made out of very light fabric and doesn’t display the same drape of the other examples.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wools, wool blends, silks, brocaded fabrics richly decorated with woven in patterns
- Doublet made out of wool lined in linen
- Under layers made out of linen
Additional:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Upholstery fabrics, brocades and patterned cloth, cottons or blends
- The outer layer needs to be of a heavy enough fabric to achieve the right drape of the examples
- Doublet and breeches made out of lighter wool blends, linen, linen blends
- Under tunic made out of linen, linen blends or cottons
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Under shirt
doublet
over coat

pants
shoes
hat

Accessories

Belt
pouch/purse

shoes
dagger

Source/Links

The King’s Servants: Men’s Dress at the Accession of Henry VIII – Caroline Johnson

Version	2
date	3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic	Westminster tournament scroll 1511
Model	Konrad von Roth 020213-07
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

1540 CE Male Tudor Sailor/Officer

January 1, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1540 CE Male Tudor Sailor/Officer
Entry #	GGB2021.092
Alternate Names	1540’s Tudor, doublet and breeches
Year	1540
Time range	1530-1580
Era	Tudor
Gender	Male
region	Western Europe
Countries/cultures	England
Maker	Gireaude Bennet/Constance Willkicke
Difficulty	4
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

Clothes of an officer sailing on the Mary Rose. Coat worn over a doublet with the base layer of a linen shirt, breeches and stockings.

Description:

undershirt, breeches, socks, garters, doublet, coat, coif and hat

Linen shirt has ruffles at collar and cuffs.

Venetian style pants are cotton.

Blue doublet is also silk. Doublet includes short cap sleeves that can not be seen in image.

Stockings are held up with hand woven garters.

Shoes are commercial “Mary Rose” style.

Linen coif beneath hat.

Coat and hat are silk, including embroidered medallion on lapel.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen shirt has ruffles at collar and cuffs.
- Venetian style pants are cotton.
- Blue doublet is also silk. Doublet includes short cap sleeves that can not be seen in image.
Additional:
- Stockings are held up with hand woven garters.
- Shoes are commercial “Mary Rose” style.

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Undershirt
breeches
socks
garters

doublet
coat
coif
hat

Accessories

Source/Links

Mary Rose Trust

Version	2
date	3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic	Man in Red, c. 1530-1550, Royal Collection, London.
Model	Alan Smyith of Darkdale 020213-04
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

1500 CE Male German Waffenrock

January 1, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1500 CE Male German Waffenrock
Entry #	GGB2021.085
Alternate Names	Waffenkleid, Reitrock
Year	1500
Time range	1470-1550
Era	Late medieval
Gender	Male
region	Central Europe
Countries/cultures	Germany/Switzerland
Maker
Difficulty	4
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Highly ornamented “war coats” worn by military forces out of areas around Germany and Switzerland. Closely associated with (and evolving into) the more flamboyant Landsknecht mercenaries

Description:

Bright colors, bold stripes. Wool over garments worn by military men. The top buttons closed and the garment is worn over at least an undershirt, and breeches. Usually seen with long stockings and sometimes with the wide ‘cow mouth’ shoes. The sleeves and skirt portions have a lot of fabric pleated in.

Related terms:

Waffenrock: war coat

Reitrock: riding coat, split for riding

Waffenkleid: war tunic

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool main garments in bright colors, or color combinations.
- linen undergarments
Accessories:
- Knitted Stockings

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Some poly/cotton brocades to simulate the rich fabrics. Wool blends are easier to find.
- Linen blends and cottons for undergarments. Very hard to make these look right without investing in the right materials.
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Coat – wool overlayer with attached skirt
Undershirt – linen shirt

Breeches – wool pants to the knee
Stockings

Accessories

Retailers catering to reenactors sell the cow mouth shoes and striped stockings in vibrant colors.

Belts
pouch/purse.

Source/Links

http://research.fibergeek.com/category/garbclothing/16th-century/landsknecht-waffenrock-1517/

Version	2
date	3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic
Model	Shawn Roark 031113-07
Photographer	Vincent De Vere