Basic Entry, Male

1530 Male Henrician Henchman’s Coat

Title1530 Male Henrician Henchman’s Coat
Entry #GGB2021.090
Alternate Names surcote
Time range1530-1575 CE
regionWestern Europe
MakerJayme Jones
ConfidenceImage Examples


Coat worn by the Henchmen (servant) of Henry the 8th court.  Coat with pleated skirt worn over a doublet and pants


Coat much like earlier surcotes making the individual as a servant in a household, Commonly seen with some indication of which household they belong to such as a color combination.  Worn over a doublet and pants or breeches with hose and an under layer and braies next to the skin

This example was made out of very light fabric and doesn’t display the same drape of the other examples.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wools, wool blends, silks, brocaded fabrics richly decorated with woven in patterns
    • Doublet made out of wool lined in linen
    • Under layers made out of linen
  • Additional:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Upholstery fabrics, brocades and patterned cloth, cottons or blends
    • The outer layer needs to be of a heavy enough fabric to achieve the right drape of the examples
    • Doublet and breeches made out of lighter wool blends, linen, linen blends
    • Under tunic made out of linen, linen blends or cottons
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Under shirt
  • doublet
  • over coat

  • pants
  • shoes
  • hat


  • Belt
  • pouch/purse
  • shoes
  • dagger


The King’s Servants: Men’s Dress at the Accession of Henry VIII – Caroline Johnson

Source of Period PicWestminster tournament scroll 1511
ModelKonrad von Roth 020213-07
PhotographerVincent De Vere

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