Category: Male

Full Entry, Male

1380 CE Male Houppelande 1

deveretallier
Title1380 CE Male Houppelande 1
Entry #GGB2021.062
Alternate Names Gown, houpelande, poun, pellanda
Year1380
Time range1360-1430
EraLate Medieval
GenderMale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesEngland, France
MakerRobert Rubow
Difficulty5
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

The houppelande is an outermost layer of dress, which was worn by middle-to-upper classes, both men and women. It was worn over a more fitted undergarment. It is identified by volumes of fabric neatly pleated into a belt, and visually balanced by a large hat.

Description:

Men wore varying lengths, depending on the fashion of the time and possibly the age of the wearer. Women wore them long, often breaking on the floor. Sleeve style varied by region and time as well, from a straight construction to wide and open, or wide and closed again at the wrist.

Necklines and sleeves started similar to cotehardies, and varied to high buttoned collars and folded down collars. Fabrics were colorful, sometimes brocaded, and often lined to contrast. Later, the female houppelande was tightened at the sleeve, a deep V left in the neck, and became the ‘Burgundian’ gown.

Layers under the Houppelande include base layers of shifts/under dresses, a kirtle or supportive layer, a cote, dress, gown or cotehardie layer and the outer houppelande

First seen in documentation in 1359 CE, the garments seem to have evolved from other outer wear such as garde-corps or herigauts, warm, billowy outer layers pulled over the head. 

Houppelande in pic is made from a rich brocade worn over a blue cotehardie

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen
    • silk
    • tabby and brocade patterning
  • Ornamentation:
    • embroidery
    • lined with contrasting fur

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • wool blends
    • linen
    • linen blends
    • cotton damasks
  • Ornamentation:
    • costume or fake fur
    • contrasting fabric

Ensemble Components

  • undershirt
  • doublet

  • cotehardie/cote/gown
  • braies/undergarments

Accessories

  • shoes with a point,
  • hose & garters
  • belt
  • hat

Source/Links

http://www.virtue.to/articles/circle_houp.html

http://medievalweddingdresses.ideasforweddings.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/houppelande3.jpg, http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/2482968742/in/photostream/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/2711997808/in/photostream/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/17024607@N08/2143873264, http://wp.bymymeasure.com/526/houppelande-belts-of-the-early-15th-century

Version2
date3/3/2021
Source of Period Pichttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Houppelande#/media/File:Prayer_book_of_Maria_d’Harcourt_-_Staatsbibliothek_zu_Berlin_MsGermQuart42_-_f19v.jpg
ModelRobert Rubow
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Simple Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle

deveretallier
TitleSimple Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #GGC2021.031
Alternate NamesBelt
Year1350
Time rangeAntiquity to end of period
EraAntiquity to end of period
GenderUnisex
regionEurope
Countries/culturesEurope
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty1
ConfidenceExtant Example

Intro:

 Various belts.      

Description:

This is a modern buckle taken from a worn out belt and attached to a strip of leather to form a belt. This easily made belt works very well for people new to the SCA.

This reproduction buckle is based an extant example dated to arround 1350 CE, but is very similar to many others from different time periods. It is available through several reputable vendors. It would be an example of a very inexpensive reproduction piece.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Leather
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Leather
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons

Version1
date1/2/2022
Source of Period PicBritish Museum
Model 
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Belt, Tablet woven 2 with garters

deveretallier
TitleBrocaded tablet woven belt and garters Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #GGC2021.035
Alternate NamesBelt, Girdle
Year1300
Time range1300-1400
EraHigh Medieval
GenderUnisex
regionEurope
Countries/culturesEurope
MakerKristine nic Tallieur,
Difficulty5
ConfidenceExtant fragment

Intro:

 Various belts.      

Description:

Th

This is a tablet woven belt made in two layers.  The outer layer is cotton with mylar wrapped thread that emulates gold thread used in period weaving. The images woven into the belt using a brocade technique.   The belt is woven in two parts with a cotton inner belt and the layers are sewn together. The buckle is a reproduction of an English find from 1300-1400’s buckle from a private collection. Purchased from a reenactor vendor.      

The garters are made in the same manner. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Linen, silk, gold wire, bronze/copper alloy
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Silk, cotton, linen, wool, mylar thread, brass, bronze
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

  • The buckle is a reproduction of a 1300-1400’s buckle from a private collection. Purchased from a reenactor vendor.      

Source/Links

Cleveland Museum of Art, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Italy,_Sicily,_end_of_11th_century_-_Two_Galloon_Fragments_Mounted_Together_-_1940.492.a_-_Cleveland_Museum_of_Art.tif

Version1
date1/9/2022
Source of Period PicWikipedia commons, Cleveland Museum of Art
Model 
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Belt, Tablet woven 1 with plaques

deveretallier
TitleBrocaded tablet woven belt and metal plaques
Entry #GGC2021.036
Alternate NamesBelt, Girdle
Year1300
Time range1200-1400
EraHigh Medieval
GenderUnisex
regionEurope
Countries/culturesEurope
MakerKristine nic Tallieur,
Difficulty5
ConfidenceExtant fragment

Intro:

 Various belts.      

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Linen, silk, gold wire, bronze/copper alloy
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Silk, cotton, linen, wool, mylar thread, brass, bronze
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

  • The buckle is a reproduction of a 1400’s buckle found in the British museum purchased from an SCA vendor. 

Source/Links

Cleveland Museum of Art, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Italy,_Sicily,_end_of_11th_century_-_Two_Galloon_Fragments_Mounted_Together_-_1940.492.a_-_Cleveland_Museum_of_Art.tif

Version1
date1/9/2022
Source of Period PicWikipedia commons, Cleveland Museum of Art
Model 
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Belt with brass plaques reproduction buckle

deveretallier
TitleBelt with brass plaques reproduction buckle
Entry #GGC2021.032
Alternate NamesBelt
Year1300 CE
Time range1200-1400CE
EraHigh Medieval
GenderUnisex
regionEurope
Countries/culturesEurope
MakerVincent De Vere,
Difficulty2
ConfidenceExtant Example

Intro:

 Various belts.      

Description:

This is a narrow leather belt with preproduction buckle and tip purchased from an SCA merchant and the brass plaques are etched with various devices and batches associated with the owner

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Leather brass, bronze
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Leather, brass
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons

buckle and tip based on a Hungarian, c. 1275 Magyar Nemzeti Museum, Budapest belt tip and

Version1
date1/2/2022
Source of Period PicBritish Museum
Model 
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  
Full Entry, Male

1420 CE Male Italian Farsetto

deveretallier
Title 1420 CE Male Italian Farsetto
Entry # GGB2021.066
Alternate Names: Doublet, Italian cotehardie 
Year : 1420
Time range: 1400 – 1450 CE
Era: Late medieval / Italian renaissance
Gender: Male
region: Southern Europe
Countries/cultures: Northern Italy
Maker: Vincent De Vere
Difficulty: 3
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A middle later to the Italian male clothing, a doublet like layer worn over undershirts and below outer layers.

Description:

The middle layer of the male dress worn by most levels of society.  The 1400’s see the transition from the longer doublet to the very short doublet. The major distinctions of the Italian variant can be seen on the arms, tight below the elbow and billowed at the upper arm, and the collar, at the back of the neck, where the collar dips lower down the spine. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Linen
    • Brocades
    • Silk
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Linen
    • Linen Blends
    • Cottons
    • Brocades
    • Wool Blends
    • Silks
    • Silk Blends
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Farsetto
  • Undershirt

  • Split hose and pants

Accessories

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic: Piero della Francesca The battle between Heraclius and Chosroes, 1452-1466
Model: Giovanni Loredan
Photographer
  

Full Entry, Male

1410 CE Male Houppelande à mi-jambe

deveretallier
Title1410 CE Male Houppelande à mi-jambe
Entry #GGB2021.064
Alternate Names Gown, houpelande, poun, pellanda
Year1410
Time range1400-1430
EraLate Medieval
GenderMale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesEngland, France
MakerVincent de Vere
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

The houppelande is an outermost layer of dress, which was worn by middle-to-upper classes, both men and women. It was worn over a more fitted undergarment. It is identified by volumes of fabric neatly pleated into a belt, and visually balanced by a large hat.

Additional Images of the garment:

Description:

Men wore houppelandes of varying lengths, depending on the fashion of the time and possibly the age of the wearer. This shorter version of the garments makes it a Houppelande à mi-jambe, more popular in the years following 1400 CE. 

 Sleeve style varied by region and time as well, from a straight construction to wide and open, or wide and closed again at the wrist.

Necklines and sleeves started similar to cotehardies, and varied to high buttoned collars and folded down collars. Fabrics were colorful, sometimes brocaded, and often lined to contrast. Later, the female houppelande was tightened at the sleeve, a deep V left in the neck, and became the ‘Burgundian’ gown.

Layers under the Houppelande include base layers of undershirt, braies/hosen, doublet, cotehardie and the outer houppelande

First seen in documentation in 1359 CE, the garments seem to have evolved from other outer wear such as garde-corps or herigauts, warm, billowy outer layers pulled over the head. 

This Houppelande à mi-jambe is made from budget friendly linen/rayon blend and is reversible.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen
    • silk
    • tabby and brocade patterning
  • Ornamentation:
    • embroidery
    • lined with contrasting fur

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • wool blends
    • linen
    • linen blends
    • cotton damasks
  • Ornamentation:
    • costume or fake fur
    • contrasting fabric

Ensemble Components

  • undershirt
  • doublet

  • cotehardie/cote/gown
  • braies/undergarments

Accessories

  • shoes with a point,
  • hose & garters
  • belt
  • hat

Source/Links

http://www.virtue.to/articles/circle_houp.html

http://medievalweddingdresses.ideasforweddings.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/houppelande3.jpg, http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/2482968742/in/photostream/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/2711997808/in/photostream/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/17024607@N08/2143873264, http://wp.bymymeasure.com/526/houppelande-belts-of-the-early-15th-century

Version2
date3/3/2021
Source of Period PicThames and Hudson pg 206 Statuette from the Dam chimney-piece, Amsterdam
ModelVincent De Vere
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

1300 CE Male Parti colored Linen Cote

deveretallier
Title: 1300 CE Male Parti colored Linen Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.046
Alternate Names: Gown, Frock coat, Tunic, over tunic, 
Year: 1300 CE
Time range: 1100-1400 CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker: Vincent De Vere
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A loose tunic like garment with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Extending from below the waste to below the knee with long sleeves.

Description:

This garment, or variations of it can be seen in many paintings and illustrations that cross over several regions and time frames.  People from many stations in society use this functional garment, from laborers to merchants and higher. Varying slightly from its beginnings before 1100CE and fading in fashion for all but laborers late in period.

In general it is slightly more tailored tunic with the neck hole held closed by use of buttons rather than the earlier broaches.  Buttons may just close the neck hole, extend part way down the chest or to the bottom of the garment.  The cut is usually full producing a baggy garment belted at the waste and bloused over the belt.  Some assign the length of the garment to station, with average workmen wearing it shorter to the more wealthy merchants wearing a longer garment.

Likely worn with an undershirt and in some cases a simple doublet as well as hosen or trews.

Sometimes underrepresented in the SCA, cotes can easily produce a medieval look with an easily constructed garment.

This example is a light loose parti colored cote with buttons down the whole length

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • wool
    • linen
    • brocades
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • wool blends
    • linen blends
    • cottons
    • lighter weight upholstery fabrics that simulate period patterns
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Cote
  • under tunic
  • possibly a doublet

  • pants or breis/hosen
  • Could be covered by a surcote

Accessories

  • hat
  • shoes
  • belt
  • pouch

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 2/25/2021
Source of Period Pic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:48-aspetti_di_vita_quotidiana_ubriachezza_Taccuino_Sanitatis_Shoes.jpg
Model:
Photographer: Vincent de Vere
  

Basic Entry, Male

1500 CE Male Italian Doublet

deveretallier
Title
Entry #GGB2021.088
Alternate Names 
Year1500
Time range
EraItalian renaissance
GenderMale
regionSouthern Europe
Countries/culturesItaly
MakerKillian lo Schermidore
Difficulty4
ConfidenceExtant Examples

Intro:

No information provided

Description:

No information provided

Inspiration Images

No information provided

Common Materials

  • No information provided

Effective Substitutions

  • No information provided

Ensemble Components

  • No information provided

Accessories

  • No information provided

Source/Links

Version2
date3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic 
ModelKillian lo Schermidore 032213-06
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Basic Entry, Male

1500 CE Male Polish Noble

deveretallier
Title1500 CE Male Polish Noble
Entry #GGB2021.089
Alternate Names 
Year1500
Time range
EraLate Medieval
Gendermale
regionEastern Europe
Countries/culturesPoland
MakerSashatec Nickali Koliskof
Difficulty4
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

No information provided

Description:

No information provided

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version2
date3/7/2021
Source of Period PicTymofii Kalynsky: Portrait of Adam Kysil.
ModelSashatec Nickali Koliskof
PhotographerVincent De Vere