Female – Page 3 – SCA Iowa Garb Guide

800 CE Female Byzantine Delmatikion

January 20, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	800 CE Female Byzantine Delmatikion
Entry #	GGB2021.0006
Alternate Names	Female byzantine court dress
Year	800 CE
Time range	700-1083 CE
Era	Early medieval
Gender	Female
region	Eastern Europe, middle east
Countries/cultures	Byzantine
Maker	Diana Tantini
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

Court garb, multi layered and richly decorated garment consisting of layers of dresses and robes as well as a decorated collar.

Description:

Essentially wide sleeved tunics and robes, made from rich fabrics and decorated with embroidered embellishments.

Multiple layers of rich garments would show the wealth of the individual. Fabrics were lighter and finer in weave, assuming to be linens and silks.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Fine fabrics
- linens
- silks
- solid colors embellished with embroidered decorations or appliqued shames rather than designs that were woven in
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- cottons
- linen blends
- some fine poly’s for silk effects, but the poly blends have many drawbacks,
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

outer wide sleeved robe
under tunics of various colors

shoes or slippers

Accessories

worn with roman inspired cloak called a chlamys

various hats

Source/Links

Version	2
date	3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic	Petar Milošević photo of Theodora (San Vitale) Ravenna, Italy
Model	Diane Wilson 020213-21
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

900 CE Norse Hangerok 4

January 19, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	900 CE Norse Hangerok 4
Entry #	GGB2021.013
Alternate Names	Apron Dress, Smokkr
Year	900 CE
Time range	900-1000 CE
Era	Early medieval
Gender	female
region	Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	Norse, Viking,
Maker	Moire inghean Neill
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Speculative reconstruction

Intro:

A tunic dress under layer with an apron like over dress with shoulder straps pinned in place with distinctive brooch pins. Remains of decorative trim sometimes found on the top band of the dress. Often accessorized with beads and metal accessories. There are several theorized construction techniques. No current supportive evidence for belts.

Description:

Naturally dyed under dress with a Red wool over dress –

They are an overdress worn over a tunic-like under dress. They generally take the shape of a tube or flared tube with broaches that connect shoulder straps to the front of the over dress. The grave finds have shown general construction of wool and some linen with variation in color, finishing and decoration. There are many fabulous resources on line to research this easy to construct garment

Current research suggests that the general style of apron dress may have been used across Norse cultures with regional variations. Local and regional differences may have led to many variations on the theme.

There is scant evidence from the grave finds due to excessive decomposition of the fabrics. These still seem to be dresses of a debatable authenticity. This has led to some of the different interpretations that are found on line.

Based on the articles I have read at this time I will side with the argument that this is a general category of garment that saw variations based on region, culture and time period. They can be grouped together as a style due to specific traits in common.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
- linen
Ornamentation:
- tablet woven decorations
- embroidery
- Silk or linen strips or threads

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen
- linen blends
- cotton
- wool blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Hangeroc (apron overdress)
underdress

Coat/Kaftan

Accessories

strands of beads
- glass or amber
Small tools (scissors, needle case, ear spoons, etc)

Brooches

Source/Links

Raymonds Quiet Press – source for reproduction broaches

https://raymonds-quiet-press.myshopify.com/

http://urd.priv.no/viking/smokkr.html

http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html

Version	2
date	2/21/2021
Source of Period Pic	http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html
Model	Moire inghean Neill 091413-01
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

900 CE Norse Hangerok 3

January 19, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	900 CE Norse Hangerok 3
Entry #	GGB2021.012
Alternate Names	Apron Dress, Smokkr
Year	900 CE
Time range	900-1000 CE
Era	Early medieval
Gender	female
region	Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	Norse, Viking,
Maker	Nghuala inghean Vi Fallamhain
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Speculative reconstruction

Intro:

Description:

Linen under dress with a blue linen over dress featuring Rus style broaches – this is a variation made to allow for the dress to be worn on very hot days.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
- linen
Ornamentation:
- tablet woven decorations
- embroidery
- Silk or linen strips or threads

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen
- linen blends
- cotton
- wool blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Hangeroc (apron overdress)
underdress

Coat/Kaftan

Accessories

strands of beads
- glass or amber
Small tools (scissors, needle case, ear spoons, etc)

Brooches

Source/Links

Raymonds Quiet Press – source for reproduction broaches

https://raymonds-quiet-press.myshopify.com/

http://urd.priv.no/viking/smokkr.html

http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html

Version	2
date	2/21/2021
Source of Period Pic	http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html
Model	Nghuala inghean Vi Fallamhain 082413-08
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

900 CE Norse Hangerok 2

January 19, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	900 CE Norse Hangerok 2
Entry #	GGB2021.011
Alternate Names	Apron Dress, Smokkr
Year	900 CE
Time range	900-1000 CE
Era	Early medieval
Gender	female
region	Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	Norse, Viking,
Maker	Gyda Glora
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Speculative reconstruction

Intro:

Description:

Red wool over dress torn over a tan linen under dress. The sort sleeves of the underdress pictured were due to a modern adaptation of the style for use in very hot weather. Current theory would suggest long sleeve underdress.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
- linen
Ornamentation:
- tablet woven decorations
- embroidery
- Silk or linen strips or threads

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen
- linen blends
- cotton
- wool blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Hangeroc (apron overdress)
underdress

Coat/Kaftan

Accessories

strands of beads
- glass or amber
Small tools (scissors, needle case, ear spoons, etc)

Brooches

Source/Links

Raymonds Quiet Press – source for reproduction broaches

https://raymonds-quiet-press.myshopify.com/

http://urd.priv.no/viking/smokkr.html

http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html

Version	2
date	2/21/2021
Source of Period Pic	http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html
Model	Gyda Glora 082413-07
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Female, Full Entry

900 CE Norse Hangerok 1

January 19, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	900 CE Norse Hangerok 1
Entry #	GGB2021.010
Alternate Names	Apron Dress, Smokkr
Year	900 CE
Time range	900-1000 CE
Era	Early medieval
Gender	female
region	Northern Europe
Countries/cultures	Norse, Viking,
Maker	Vasilla Krasnaia
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Speculative reconstruction

Intro:

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
- linen
Ornamentation:
- tablet woven decorations
- embroidery
- Silk or linen strips or threads

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen
- linen blends
- cotton
- wool blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Hangeroc (apron overdress)
underdress

Coat/Kaftan

Accessories

strands of beads
- glass or amber
Small tools (scissors, needle case, ear spoons, etc)

Brooches

Source/Links

Raymonds Quiet Press – source for reproduction broaches

https://raymonds-quiet-press.myshopify.com/

http://urd.priv.no/viking/smokkr.html

http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html

Version	2
date	2/21/2021
Source of Period Pic	http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html
Model	Vasilla Krasnaia 082413-06
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Hose Linen 1

January 18, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Hose Linen 1
Entry #	GGC2021.008
Alternate Names	separate hose, split hose, hose, hosen, stocking, chausses
Year	1000-1500 CE
Time range	1000-1500 CE
Era	early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Examples of split hose sewn from linen and tied to the breech garter at the waist.

Description:

This is an example of split hose made out of linen and parti-colored. They have enclosed feet and a hole at the side to tie to a belt or girdle. They may commonly be seen with a garter tied just below the knee to assist in keeping the hose from slipping. The garter may be a tied woven band or a band with a buckle.

There is evidence supporting the use of some form of split hose stretching to early medieval times with their height in high medieval times. By the 1300’s the split hose were beginning to be less fashionable and were replaced by joined hose, however split hose continued to be used until the end of period.

The longer forms of the split hose may be associated with male fashion and the short hose with women and children, but people likely wore what they preferred as well as what matched their needs.

The best hose is made out of light wool fabric that has some spring to the weave and cut on the bias (diagonally.) although very wasteful of the fabric, the bias cut means that the resulting hose are slightly more elastic and fit better.

The historical use of various kinds of hose by women is assumed by us and use by members does occur.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends
- Wool blends

Ensemble Components

Hosen were worn by many different cultures and time periods and by many levels of society. Closely associated with the hosen are the Braies worn under the hosen and the girdle or belt used to hold them up as well as the garters to keep them from slipping worn just below the knee.

Accessories

Garters or woven material tied or a belt style garter. Girdle belt or belt worn at the waist and tied to the hosen to keep them up

Source/Links

http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/maciejowski_images_18.htm

Version	1
date	12/25/2021
Source of Period Pic	maciejowski bible
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Hose wool 1

January 18, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Hose wool 1
Entry #	GGC2021.009
Alternate Names	separate hose, split hose, hose, hosen, stocking, chausses
Year	1000-1500 CE
Time range	1000-1500 CE
Era	early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Examples of split hose sewn from linen and tied to the breech garter at the waist.

Description:

This is an example of split hose made out of wool. They have enclosed feet and a hole at the side to tie to a belt or girdle. They may commonly be seen with a garter tied just below the knee to assist in keeping the hose from slipping. The garter may be a tied woven band or a band with a buckle.

The longer forms of the split hose may be associated with male fashion and the short hose with women and children, but people likely wore what they preferred as well as what matched their needs.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends
- Wool blends

Ensemble Components

Hosen were worn by many different cultures and time periods and by many levels of society. Closely associated with the hosen are the Braies worn under the hosen and the girdle or belt used to hold them up as well as the garters to keep them from slipping worn just below the knee.

Accessories

Garters or woven material tied or a belt style garter. Girdle belt or belt worn at the waist and tied to the hosen to keep them up

Source/Links

http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/maciejowski_images_18.htm

Version	1
date	12/30/2021
Source of Period Pic	maciejowski bible
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Apron, gathered

January 18, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Apron, gathered
Entry #	GGC2021.016
Alternate Names	Apron
Year	1000-1600 CE
Time range	1000-1600 CE
Era	early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Basic gathered apron made from one yard of linen fabric

Description:

This apron is made from three pieces with two long narrow strips sewn into the waistband and one large rectangle gathered along the waistband to form the main portion of the apron.

Aprons are easily constructed accessories that are also functional accessories to use with your SCA clothing. They can easily be made in a few minutes by machine or just a couple hours by hand. They add to the completeness of an ensemble by adding another layer to the look. They are also very functional in protecting the clothing beneath it.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

c 1300-c 1340, The Decretals of Gregory IX, edited by Raymund of Penyafort (or Peñafort); with the glossa ordinaria of Bernard of Parma in the margin.

Version	1
date	12/30/2021
Source of Period Pic	British Library
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Coif, 2 piece

January 18, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Coif, 2 piece
Entry #	GGC2021.003
Alternate Names	Coif
Year	1000-1600 CE
Time range	1000-1600 CE
Era	High Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Germany, Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Head covering made from small scraps of linen fabric.

Description:

It’s underwear for your head. Many images of the middle ages feature people wearing coifs to cover and protect their hair, oils from their head from their hats and for something to connect hats to. They also are an easy accessory to add to your

These are very simple to construct either by machine or by hand and take very little fabric. They are easily made from cotton fabric or linen and there are surviving examples and images that show a number of variations through time or cultures.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Illustration from Cantigas de Santa Maria manuscript. The Cantigas de Santa Maria (Songs to the Virgin Mary) are manuscripts written in Galician-Portuguese, with music notation, during the reign of Alfonso X El Sabio (1221-1284).

Version	1
date	12/30/2021
Source of Period Pic	British Library
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Coif, 3 piece

January 18, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Coif, 3 piece
Entry #	GGC2021.004
Alternate Names	Coif
Year	1000-1600 CE
Time range	1000-1600 CE
Era	High Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Germany, Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Head covering made from small scraps of linen fabric.

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version	1
date	12/30/2021
Source of Period Pic	British Library
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere