Component Entry – Page 2 – SCA Iowa Garb Guide

Coif, 2 piece

January 18, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Coif, 2 piece
Entry #	GGC2021.003
Alternate Names	Coif
Year	1000-1600 CE
Time range	1000-1600 CE
Era	High Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Germany, Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Head covering made from small scraps of linen fabric.

Description:

It’s underwear for your head. Many images of the middle ages feature people wearing coifs to cover and protect their hair, oils from their head from their hats and for something to connect hats to. They also are an easy accessory to add to your

These are very simple to construct either by machine or by hand and take very little fabric. They are easily made from cotton fabric or linen and there are surviving examples and images that show a number of variations through time or cultures.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Illustration from Cantigas de Santa Maria manuscript. The Cantigas de Santa Maria (Songs to the Virgin Mary) are manuscripts written in Galician-Portuguese, with music notation, during the reign of Alfonso X El Sabio (1221-1284).

Version	1
date	12/30/2021
Source of Period Pic	British Library
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Coif, 3 piece

January 18, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Coif, 3 piece
Entry #	GGC2021.004
Alternate Names	Coif
Year	1000-1600 CE
Time range	1000-1600 CE
Era	High Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Germany, Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Head covering made from small scraps of linen fabric.

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version	1
date	12/30/2021
Source of Period Pic	British Library
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Hose Linen 1

January 18, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Hose Linen 1
Entry #	GGC2021.008
Alternate Names	separate hose, split hose, hose, hosen, stocking, chausses
Year	1000-1500 CE
Time range	1000-1500 CE
Era	early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Examples of split hose sewn from linen and tied to the breech garter at the waist.

Description:

This is an example of split hose made out of linen and parti-colored. They have enclosed feet and a hole at the side to tie to a belt or girdle. They may commonly be seen with a garter tied just below the knee to assist in keeping the hose from slipping. The garter may be a tied woven band or a band with a buckle.

There is evidence supporting the use of some form of split hose stretching to early medieval times with their height in high medieval times. By the 1300’s the split hose were beginning to be less fashionable and were replaced by joined hose, however split hose continued to be used until the end of period.

The longer forms of the split hose may be associated with male fashion and the short hose with women and children, but people likely wore what they preferred as well as what matched their needs.

The best hose is made out of light wool fabric that has some spring to the weave and cut on the bias (diagonally.) although very wasteful of the fabric, the bias cut means that the resulting hose are slightly more elastic and fit better.

The historical use of various kinds of hose by women is assumed by us and use by members does occur.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends
- Wool blends

Ensemble Components

Hosen were worn by many different cultures and time periods and by many levels of society. Closely associated with the hosen are the Braies worn under the hosen and the girdle or belt used to hold them up as well as the garters to keep them from slipping worn just below the knee.

Accessories

Garters or woven material tied or a belt style garter. Girdle belt or belt worn at the waist and tied to the hosen to keep them up

Source/Links

http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/maciejowski_images_18.htm

Version	1
date	12/25/2021
Source of Period Pic	maciejowski bible
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Hose wool 1

January 18, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Hose wool 1
Entry #	GGC2021.009
Alternate Names	separate hose, split hose, hose, hosen, stocking, chausses
Year	1000-1500 CE
Time range	1000-1500 CE
Era	early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Examples of split hose sewn from linen and tied to the breech garter at the waist.

Description:

This is an example of split hose made out of wool. They have enclosed feet and a hole at the side to tie to a belt or girdle. They may commonly be seen with a garter tied just below the knee to assist in keeping the hose from slipping. The garter may be a tied woven band or a band with a buckle.

The longer forms of the split hose may be associated with male fashion and the short hose with women and children, but people likely wore what they preferred as well as what matched their needs.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wool

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- wool
- cotton
- cotton blends
- Wool blends

Ensemble Components

Hosen were worn by many different cultures and time periods and by many levels of society. Closely associated with the hosen are the Braies worn under the hosen and the girdle or belt used to hold them up as well as the garters to keep them from slipping worn just below the knee.

Accessories

Garters or woven material tied or a belt style garter. Girdle belt or belt worn at the waist and tied to the hosen to keep them up

Source/Links

http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/maciejowski_images_18.htm

Version	1
date	12/30/2021
Source of Period Pic	maciejowski bible
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Apron, gathered

January 18, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Apron, gathered
Entry #	GGC2021.016
Alternate Names	Apron
Year	1000-1600 CE
Time range	1000-1600 CE
Era	early medieval, high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	unisex
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Basic gathered apron made from one yard of linen fabric

Description:

This apron is made from three pieces with two long narrow strips sewn into the waistband and one large rectangle gathered along the waistband to form the main portion of the apron.

Aprons are easily constructed accessories that are also functional accessories to use with your SCA clothing. They can easily be made in a few minutes by machine or just a couple hours by hand. They add to the completeness of an ensemble by adding another layer to the look. They are also very functional in protecting the clothing beneath it.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

c 1300-c 1340, The Decretals of Gregory IX, edited by Raymund of Penyafort (or Peñafort); with the glossa ordinaria of Bernard of Parma in the margin.

Version	1
date	12/30/2021
Source of Period Pic	British Library
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, bag shoe

January 18, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, bag shoe
Entry #	GGC2022.017
Alternate Names
Year	1000 CE
Time range	3000 BCE – 1200 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Simple slip on shoes.

Description:

Low slip on shoes that are constructed from a single piece of leather and a leather thong. Evidence of shoes much like this have been found to our knowledge, from sites ranging from 3000 BCE to 1200 CE or later. Basic shoes of this style have also been found in the archeological record across Europe.

This recreation shoe later had a stiffing sole and tread glued to the bottom to prevent the wearer from slipping at events. Although this modification is not historically correct, modifications done for personal safety and comfort are common in the SCA.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather, but oak tan/veg tan leather will work far better

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Jotunheimen shoe. Vegard Vike/Kulturhistorisk museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	The Jotunheimen shoe. Vegard Vike/Kulturhistorisk museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle

January 18, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.032
Alternate Names	Belt
Year	1066 CE
Time range	1000-1200CE
Era	High Medieval
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a reproduction of an extant example buckle and strap end attached to a strip of leather to form a belt.

This reproduction buckle is based on an extant example and was dated to a time range in the high medieval period. It is available through several reputable vendors. It would be an example of a very inexpensive reproduction piece.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

https://armourandcastings.com/en_US/products/prjazhka-e14-2

Norman belt set, Britain, 11-12 c. For 20 mm wide belt.

Version	1
date	1/2/2022
Source of Period Pic	British Museum
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Male

Undershirt/Tunic (Saint Louis Shirt)

January 14, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	1200 CE Linen Saint Louis Shirt 1
Entry #	GGC2021.001
Alternate Names	Shirt of Saint Louis the 9^th Undershirt, tunic,
Year	1270 CE
Time range	1200-1300 CE
Era	High medieval
Gender	Male
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	France
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant example

Intro:

A tunic and an outer layer coat associated with Norse cultures. The front panels cross over each Attempt to replicate the surviving shirt labeled as belonging to Saint Louis the 9^th found in Notre-Dame de Paris,

Description:

Wool coat lined with linen decorated with a tablet woven band. The coat is shown over a

One of the many variations of the tunics. This is an attempt to replicate one of the few surviving examples of undershirts. The extant example can be found in the Notre-Dame de Paris and is claimed to belong to Saint Louis the 9^th (1226-1270CE) king of France. Although the exact lineage is not provable, the garment is a representation of n undergarment from before 1300CE.

It is often assumed that the extant example is representative of one of the many variations for methods of construction for undergarments for men. Many illustrations of people from all levels of society survive showing people wearing undergarments but this example gives us insight to the construction technique.

The original is made from linen as is the reconstruction. Undergarments and additional layers are a good way to add to an ensemble as well as serving the purpose that the original served. The undergarments that get sweaty or dirty, are more easily washed than the outer garments that are often more expensive and harder to clean.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Undergarments were generally made from linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Linen
- linen blends
- Linen rayon
- Linen cotton
- cotton

Ensemble Components

Undershirt

Accessories

Source/Links

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shirt_of_Saint_Louis

source image Public Domain

File:Trésors de Saint Louis dans le trésor de Notre-Dame de Paris 2018-05-12.jpg

Version	1
date	12/24/2021
Source of Period Pic	https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shirt_of_Saint_Louis
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent de Vere

Maker:S,Date:2017-9-29,Ver:6,Lens:Kan03,Act:Lar02,E-ve

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Belt, Tablet woven 1 with garters

January 14, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Brocaded tablet woven belt and garters Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.034
Alternate Names	Belt, Girdle
Year	1275
Time range	1200-1300
Era	High Medieval
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Kristine nic Tallieur,
Difficulty	5
Confidence	Extant fragment

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a tablet woven belt made in two layers. The outer layer is cotton with mylar wrapped thread that emulates gold thread used in period weaving. The images woven into the belt using a brocade technique. The belt is woven in two parts with a cotton inner belt and the layers are sewn together. The buckle is a reproduction of a 1200-1300’s buckle found in the Budapest Museum of History, Nomad hall purchased from a reenactor vendor.

The garters are made in the same manner.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen, silk, gold wire, bronze/copper alloy
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silk, cotton, linen, wool, mylar thread, brass, bronze
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

buckle copy of one found in Hungary, 13-14 c. Stored in Budapest Museum of History, Nomad hall

Source/Links

Cleveland Museum of Art, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Italy,_Sicily,_end_of_11th_century_-_Two_Galloon_Fragments_Mounted_Together_-_1940.492.a_-_Cleveland_Museum_of_Art.tif

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wikipedia commons, Cleveland Museum of Art
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Belt, Tablet woven 2 with garters

January 9, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Brocaded tablet woven belt and garters Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.035
Alternate Names	Belt, Girdle
Year	1300
Time range	1300-1400
Era	High Medieval
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Kristine nic Tallieur,
Difficulty	5
Confidence	Extant fragment

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a tablet woven belt made in two layers. The outer layer is cotton with mylar wrapped thread that emulates gold thread used in period weaving. The images woven into the belt using a brocade technique. The belt is woven in two parts with a cotton inner belt and the layers are sewn together. The buckle is a reproduction of an English find from 1300-1400’s buckle from a private collection. Purchased from a reenactor vendor.

The garters are made in the same manner.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen, silk, gold wire, bronze/copper alloy
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silk, cotton, linen, wool, mylar thread, brass, bronze
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

The buckle is a reproduction of a 1300-1400’s buckle from a private collection. Purchased from a reenactor vendor.

Source/Links

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wikipedia commons, Cleveland Museum of Art
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere