Difficulty 2 – Page 5 – SCA Iowa Garb Guide

1300 CE Male Linen Cote

January 9, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1300 CE Male Linen Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.045
Alternate Names: Gown, Frock coat, Tunic, over tunic,
Year: 1300 CE
Time range: 1100-1400 CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker:
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A loose tunic like garment with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Extending from below the waste to below the knee with long sleeves.

Description:

This garment, or variations of it can be seen in many paintings and illustrations that cross over several regions and time frames. People from many stations in society use this functional garment, from laborers to merchants and higher. Varying slightly from its beginnings before 1100CE and fading in fashion for all but laborers late in period.

In general it is slightly more tailored tunic with the neck hole held closed by use of buttons rather than the earlier broaches. Buttons may just close the neck hole, extend part way down the chest or to the bottom of the garment. The cut is usually full producing a baggy garment belted at the waste and bloused over the belt. Some assign the length of the garment to station, with average workmen wearing it shorter to the more wealthy merchants wearing a longer garment.

Likely worn with an undershirt and in some cases a simple doublet as well as hosen or trews.

Sometimes underrepresented in the SCA, cotes can easily produce a medieval look with an easily constructed garment.

This example is a loose tunic like cote with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Worn with riding boots. A heraldic patch can be seen on the chest.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
- linen
- brocades
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- wool blends
- linen blends
- cottons
- lighter weight upholstery fabrics that simulate period patterns
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Cote
under tunic
possibly a doublet

pants or breis/hosen
Could be covered by a surcote

Accessories

hat
shoes

belt
pouch

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 2/25/2021
Source of Period Pic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:48-aspetti_di_vita_quotidiana_ubriachezza_Taccuino_Sanitatis_Shoes.jpg
Model: Thaddeus Ellenbock
Photographer: Vincent de Vere

Female, Full Entry

1370 CE Female, Cotehardie 7

January 9, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1370 CE Female, Cotehardie 7
Entry #: GGB2021.053
Alternate Names: Gothic Fitted Dress
Year: 1370
Time range: 1350-1400 CE
Era: High Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Western europe, central europe
Countries/cultures: France, England,
Maker: Vincent de Vere
Difficulty: 3
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

Fitted female garment forming an outer or middle layer.

Description:

Gold silk cotehardie shown here without a kirtle

As female garments became more fitted in the 1300s the unfitted tunic like dresses became more tailored and fitted.

A loose shift or slip like garment could be worn as a base layer. There is limited evidence for underwear. The bust could be supported with just the fitted layers.

A kirtle layer worn between the shift and the cotehardie could be laced up the front and the sleeves could be buttoned or laced. The kirtle layer is often fitted as to be supportive in the bust and not as long as the cotehardie layer.

The cotehardie layer over the kirtle later adds to the support of the bust line. The neck line could be plunging or more modest. The dress is often shown with a large number of closely spaced buttons on a front closure. The sleeves could be short, short with sleeve streamers (a very stereotypical cotehardie look) or longer. Some examples extend over the hand almost to the fingers. The cotehardie layer would be floor length. The belt is often shown slung low on the hips.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- fine cloths
- silks
- brocades
- fine wools
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silks
- linens
- linen blends with rayon or cotton
- brocades.
- Some cotton poly brocades can work to mimic the look of rich brocades, but the higher the poly content the more unpleasant the garment is to wear.
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Slip/shift
Kirtle Cotehardie
purse

coifs/undercaps/hoods
belt
turnshoes

Accessories

Source/Links

http://www.chesholme.com/wfiles/2-1-Cotehardie.pdf

http://starsandgarters.org/2020/10/04/patterning-fitted-garments/

Version: 2
date: 2/26/2021
Source of Period Pic:
Model:
Photographer: Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Belt with brass plaques reproduction buckle

January 9, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Belt with brass plaques reproduction buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.032
Alternate Names	Belt
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1200-1400CE
Era	High Medieval
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a narrow leather belt with preproduction buckle and tip purchased from an SCA merchant and the brass plaques are etched with various devices and batches associated with the owner

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather brass, bronze
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Leather, brass
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

buckle and tip based on a Hungarian, c. 1275 Magyar Nemzeti Museum, Budapest belt tip and

Version	1
date	1/2/2022
Source of Period Pic	British Museum
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Basic Entry, Female

1480 CE Female Italian Gown

January 5, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1480 CE Female Italian Gown
Entry #	GGB2021.070
Alternate Names
Year	1480
Time range	1480-1510
Era	Late Medieval, Italian Renaissance
Gender	Female
region	Southern Europe
Countries/cultures	Italy
Maker	Elena del Mar
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Basic Italian Gown/ Northern Italian

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version	2
date	3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic
Model	Elena del Mar
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

1300 CE Male Parti colored Linen Cote

January 4, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1300 CE Male Parti colored Linen Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.046
Alternate Names: Gown, Frock coat, Tunic, over tunic,
Year: 1300 CE
Time range: 1100-1400 CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker: Vincent De Vere
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A loose tunic like garment with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Extending from below the waste to below the knee with long sleeves.

Description:

Likely worn with an undershirt and in some cases a simple doublet as well as hosen or trews.

Sometimes underrepresented in the SCA, cotes can easily produce a medieval look with an easily constructed garment.

This example is a light loose parti colored cote with buttons down the whole length

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
- linen
- brocades
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- wool blends
- linen blends
- cottons
- lighter weight upholstery fabrics that simulate period patterns
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Cote
under tunic
possibly a doublet

pants or breis/hosen
Could be covered by a surcote

Accessories

hat
shoes

belt
pouch

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 2/25/2021
Source of Period Pic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:48-aspetti_di_vita_quotidiana_ubriachezza_Taccuino_Sanitatis_Shoes.jpg
Model:
Photographer: Vincent de Vere

Component Entry, Female

Apron, pleated

January 1, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Apron, gathered
Entry #	GGC2021.017
Alternate Names	Apron
Year	1000-1600 CE
Time range	1000-1600 CE
Era	high Medieval, Late Medieval
Gender	women
region	European
Countries/cultures	Western European, Central European
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Apron made from one yard of linen fabric featuring honeycomb pleating decoration.

Description:

This apron is made from three pieces with two long narrow strips sewn into the waistband and one large rectangle decorated with honeycomb pleating.

Aprons are easily constructed accessories that are also functional accessories to use with your SCA clothing. They can easily be made in a few minutes by machine or just a couple hours by hand. They add to the completeness of an ensemble by adding another layer to the look. They are also very functional in protecting the clothing beneath it.

The honeycomb pleating makes this apron appear much more complex but the decoration can be done in a few hours of work and makes a much more decorative accessory.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- linen blends
- Linen
- cotton
- cotton blends

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

woodcut Tailor and Seamstress by Erhard Schon, 1525-1530

These are images from the The German single-leaf woodcut, 1500-1550, Max Geisberg ; rev. and edited by Walter L. Strauss, New York : Hacker Art Books, 1974.

Version	1
date	12/30/2021
Source of Period Pic	The German single-leaf woodcut,
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Basic Entry, Male

1500 CE Male Irish Inonar and Leine

January 1, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1500 CE Male Irish Inonar and Leine
Entry #	GGB2021.087
Alternate Names
Year	1500
Time range
Era	Late medieval
Gender	Male
region	Northern europe
Countries/cultures	Ireland
Maker	Conel O’Carroll
Difficulty	2
Confidence	No information provided

Intro:

A short vest like coat and baggy shirt

Description:

Leine, generally meaning shirt. The Inonar jacket

Inspiration Images

No Information Provided

Common Materials

No Information Provided

Effective Substitutions

No Information Provided

Ensemble Components

No Information Provided

Accessories

No Information Provided

Source/Links

https://reconstructinghistory.com/an-leine-crioch-the-irish-leine-in-the-16th-century/

Version	2
date	3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic
Model	Conel O’Carroll
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Tag: Difficulty 2

1370 CE Female, Cotehardie 6

As female garments became more fitted in the 1300s the unfitted tunic like dresses became more tailored and fitted.

A loose shift or slip like garment could be worn as a base layer. There is limited evidence for underwear. The bust could be supported with just the fitted layers.

A kirtle layer worn between the shift and the cotehardie could be laced up the front and the sleeves could be buttoned or laced. The kirtle layer is often fitted as to be supportive in the bust and not as long as the cotehardie layer.

1300 CE Male Linen Cote

1370 CE Female, Cotehardie 7

Gold silk cotehardie shown here without a kirtle

As female garments became more fitted in the 1300s the unfitted tunic like dresses became more tailored and fitted.

A loose shift or slip like garment could be worn as a base layer. There is limited evidence for underwear. The bust could be supported with just the fitted layers.

A kirtle layer worn between the shift and the cotehardie could be laced up the front and the sleeves could be buttoned or laced. The kirtle layer is often fitted as to be supportive in the bust and not as long as the cotehardie layer.

Belt with brass plaques reproduction buckle

1480 CE Female Italian Gown

1300 CE Male Parti colored Linen Cote

Apron, pleated

1500 CE Male Irish Inonar and Leine