1300 – Page 5 – SCA Iowa Garb Guide

1370 CE Female, Cotehardie 7

January 9, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1370 CE Female, Cotehardie 7
Entry #: GGB2021.053
Alternate Names: Gothic Fitted Dress
Year: 1370
Time range: 1350-1400 CE
Era: High Medieval
Gender: Female
region: Western europe, central europe
Countries/cultures: France, England,
Maker: Vincent de Vere
Difficulty: 3
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

Fitted female garment forming an outer or middle layer.

Description:

Gold silk cotehardie shown here without a kirtle

As female garments became more fitted in the 1300s the unfitted tunic like dresses became more tailored and fitted.

A loose shift or slip like garment could be worn as a base layer. There is limited evidence for underwear. The bust could be supported with just the fitted layers.

A kirtle layer worn between the shift and the cotehardie could be laced up the front and the sleeves could be buttoned or laced. The kirtle layer is often fitted as to be supportive in the bust and not as long as the cotehardie layer.

The cotehardie layer over the kirtle later adds to the support of the bust line. The neck line could be plunging or more modest. The dress is often shown with a large number of closely spaced buttons on a front closure. The sleeves could be short, short with sleeve streamers (a very stereotypical cotehardie look) or longer. Some examples extend over the hand almost to the fingers. The cotehardie layer would be floor length. The belt is often shown slung low on the hips.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- fine cloths
- silks
- brocades
- fine wools
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silks
- linens
- linen blends with rayon or cotton
- brocades.
- Some cotton poly brocades can work to mimic the look of rich brocades, but the higher the poly content the more unpleasant the garment is to wear.
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Slip/shift
Kirtle Cotehardie
purse

coifs/undercaps/hoods
belt
turnshoes

Accessories

Source/Links

http://www.chesholme.com/wfiles/2-1-Cotehardie.pdf

http://starsandgarters.org/2020/10/04/patterning-fitted-garments/

Version: 2
date: 2/26/2021
Source of Period Pic:
Model:
Photographer: Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Belt, Tablet woven 1 with plaques

January 9, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Brocaded tablet woven belt and metal plaques
Entry #	GGC2021.036
Alternate Names	Belt, Girdle
Year	1300
Time range	1200-1400
Era	High Medieval
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Kristine nic Tallieur,
Difficulty	5
Confidence	Extant fragment

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen, silk, gold wire, bronze/copper alloy
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silk, cotton, linen, wool, mylar thread, brass, bronze
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

The buckle is a reproduction of a 1400’s buckle found in the British museum purchased from an SCA vendor.

Source/Links

Cleveland Museum of Art, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Italy,_Sicily,_end_of_11th_century_-_Two_Galloon_Fragments_Mounted_Together_-_1940.492.a_-_Cleveland_Museum_of_Art.tif

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wikipedia commons, Cleveland Museum of Art
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Belt with brass plaques reproduction buckle

January 9, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Belt with brass plaques reproduction buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.032
Alternate Names	Belt
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1200-1400CE
Era	High Medieval
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a narrow leather belt with preproduction buckle and tip purchased from an SCA merchant and the brass plaques are etched with various devices and batches associated with the owner

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather brass, bronze
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Leather, brass
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

buckle and tip based on a Hungarian, c. 1275 Magyar Nemzeti Museum, Budapest belt tip and

Version	1
date	1/2/2022
Source of Period Pic	British Museum
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on punched turn shoe 1

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, slip-on punched turn shoe 1
Entry #	GGC2022.019
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes with punched out decorations

Description:

Low slip on shoes that are constructed from 2 pieces of leather. They are sewn inside out and then turned right side out, thus the common name of turn shoes. Shoes like these, in one form or another, have been used throughout the period covered by the SCA

This pair of shoes is decorated by having a pattern of holes punched into the leather before assembling the shoe. Shoes decorated with punch decorations have survived dating back to Roman times. Sets of shaped punches can be purchased online for not much and the punching of the leather adds less than an hour to the total construction time.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather doesn’t shape and form that way oak tan/veg tan leather will.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons, Kulturhistorisk Museum, Oslo, Norway. Medieval Exhibition
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on low turn shoe 1

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, slip-on low turn shoe 1
Entry #	GGC2022.016
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes.

Description:

This pair of shoes had a stiffening sole and tread glued to the shoe after construction. Although this is a modern consideration, it was done for additional comfort and safety for use at events. Accommodations like this are common in the SCA.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather doesn’t shape and form that way oak tan/veg tan leather will.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, punched simplified shoe 2

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, punched simplified shoe 2
Entry #	GGC2022.021
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes with punched out decorations

Description:

Low slip on shoes that are constructed from 2 pieces of leather. This simplified shoe construction doesn’t require the shoe to be turned inside out after constructing and it looks much like a turn shoe when worn. Shoes like these, in one form or another, have been used throughout the period covered by the SCA

This simplified construction technique doesn’t actually produce a turn shoe and can produce a shoe much like the turn shoe and can use chrome tanned leather.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- This modification can work with chrome tanned leather. Oak tan/veg tan leather will work better.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons, Kulturhistorisk Museum, Oslo, Norway. Medieval Exhibition
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on simplified shoe 2

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, slip-on simplified shoe 2
Entry #	GGC2022.020
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on shoes.

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather can be used with this simplified shoe. Oak tan/veg tan leather will work better.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Simple Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle

January 9, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Simple Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.031
Alternate Names	Belt
Year	1350
Time range	Antiquity to end of period
Era	Antiquity to end of period
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a modern buckle taken from a worn out belt and attached to a strip of leather to form a belt. This easily made belt works very well for people new to the SCA.

This reproduction buckle is based an extant example dated to arround 1350 CE, but is very similar to many others from different time periods. It is available through several reputable vendors. It would be an example of a very inexpensive reproduction piece.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Version	1
date	1/2/2022
Source of Period Pic	British Museum
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Belt, Tablet woven 2 with garters

January 9, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Brocaded tablet woven belt and garters Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.035
Alternate Names	Belt, Girdle
Year	1300
Time range	1300-1400
Era	High Medieval
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Kristine nic Tallieur,
Difficulty	5
Confidence	Extant fragment

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a tablet woven belt made in two layers. The outer layer is cotton with mylar wrapped thread that emulates gold thread used in period weaving. The images woven into the belt using a brocade technique. The belt is woven in two parts with a cotton inner belt and the layers are sewn together. The buckle is a reproduction of an English find from 1300-1400’s buckle from a private collection. Purchased from a reenactor vendor.

The garters are made in the same manner.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen, silk, gold wire, bronze/copper alloy
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silk, cotton, linen, wool, mylar thread, brass, bronze
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

The buckle is a reproduction of a 1300-1400’s buckle from a private collection. Purchased from a reenactor vendor.

Source/Links

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wikipedia commons, Cleveland Museum of Art
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

1300 CE Male Parti colored Linen Cote

January 4, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1300 CE Male Parti colored Linen Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.046
Alternate Names: Gown, Frock coat, Tunic, over tunic,
Year: 1300 CE
Time range: 1100-1400 CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker: Vincent De Vere
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A loose tunic like garment with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Extending from below the waste to below the knee with long sleeves.

Description:

This garment, or variations of it can be seen in many paintings and illustrations that cross over several regions and time frames. People from many stations in society use this functional garment, from laborers to merchants and higher. Varying slightly from its beginnings before 1100CE and fading in fashion for all but laborers late in period.

In general it is slightly more tailored tunic with the neck hole held closed by use of buttons rather than the earlier broaches. Buttons may just close the neck hole, extend part way down the chest or to the bottom of the garment. The cut is usually full producing a baggy garment belted at the waste and bloused over the belt. Some assign the length of the garment to station, with average workmen wearing it shorter to the more wealthy merchants wearing a longer garment.

Likely worn with an undershirt and in some cases a simple doublet as well as hosen or trews.

Sometimes underrepresented in the SCA, cotes can easily produce a medieval look with an easily constructed garment.

This example is a light loose parti colored cote with buttons down the whole length

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
- linen
- brocades
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- wool blends
- linen blends
- cottons
- lighter weight upholstery fabrics that simulate period patterns
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Cote
under tunic
possibly a doublet

pants or breis/hosen
Could be covered by a surcote

Accessories

hat
shoes

belt
pouch

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 2/25/2021
Source of Period Pic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:48-aspetti_di_vita_quotidiana_ubriachezza_Taccuino_Sanitatis_Shoes.jpg
Model:
Photographer: Vincent de Vere