Category: Full Entry

Female, Full Entry

1565 English Elizabethan Gown 1

deveretallier
Title1565 English Elizabethan Gown 1
Entry #GGB2021.096
Alternate Names 
Year1565
Time range1550-1600
EraElizabethan
GenderFemale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesEngland
MakerHelena of Tor
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

The Elizabethan Gown is a decorated bodice and skirt worn over a chemise, corset and farthingale

Description:

This gown was inspired by Steven Van Der Meulen of Elizabeth the First in The Hampden Portrait painted in 1563 and by a portrait of Mary Queen of Scots by an unknown artist in 1565 during her brief rule in Scotland.   The bodice is steel boned and laced on the sides. The lacing should be angling from the armpit to the middle of the back hip.  I did not incorporate that into this pattern though. 

   The skirt is an 8 paneled box pleated skirt with a button closure. To be accurate though the skirt should be cartridge pleated or knife pleated and hooked in the bodice.

This example was of a more basic construction for use during SCA events that may otherwise damage the more intricate dresses.  

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Silk, Satin, Velvet, taffeta
  • Ornamentation:
    • Bobbin Lace
    • Jewels
    • Embroidery

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Heavy brocades, like upholstery fabrics, work very well to give a rich look. 
    • Fancy bedspreads also work well for inserts. 
  • Ornamentation:
    • Buttons work well as jewels. 
    • Lace curtains sometimes look enough like bobbin lace to use.   

Ensemble Components

  • Chemise (high necked or low necked)
  • stockings
  • corset
  • underskirt

  • outer skirt
  • bodice
  • shoes

Accessories

  • snood
  • hat
  • strings of pearls or other jewels around the neck
  • choker necklace
  • rings
  • ear rings
  • gloves
  • girdle belt
  • mirror hanging from the belt
  • decorative pouch hanging from the belt

Source/Links

Elizabeth of Valios by Alonso Sanchez Coello 1564

Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlocked by Janet Arnold

Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlocked  by Janet Arnold

1560 Elisabeth De Valois by Alonso Sanchez Coello…Grand Ladies

Version3
date3/7/2021
Source of Period Pic1560 Elisabeth De Valois by Alonso Sanchez Coello…
ModelHelena of Tor 031513-04
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

1500 CE German Male Landsknecht

deveretallier
Title1500 CE German Male Landsknecht
Entry #GGB2021.085
Alternate Names Waffenkleid, Reitrock, waffenrock
Year1500
Time range1470-1550 CE
EraLate Medieval
GenderMale
regionCentral Europe
Countries/culturesGermany/Switzerland
Maker
Difficulty4
ConfidenceImage of Example

Intro:

Highly ornamented “war coats” worn by military forces out of areas around Germany and Switzerland.  Closely associated with (and evolving into) the more flamboyant Landsknecht mercenaries

Description:

Bright clashing colors, bold stripes mismatched parts.  Sleeves and legs with decorative slashes.  Wool over garments worn by mercenaries and often scavenged from the best parts found on the battlefield.  The top buttons closed and the garment is worn over at least an undershirt, and breeches.  Usually seen with long stockings and sometimes with the wide ‘cow mouth’ shoes. The sleeves and skirt portions have a lot of fabric pleated in. 

Related terms:

Waffenrock: war coat

Reitrock: riding coat, split for riding

Waffenkleid: war tunic

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool main garments in bright colors, or color combinations. 
    • linen undergarments
  • Ornamentation:
    • Knitted stockings

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Some poly/cotton brocades to simulate the rich fabrics.  Wool blends are easier to find. 
    • Linen blends and cottons for undergarments. 
    • Very hard to make these look right without investing in the right materials.
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Coat – wool overlayer with attached skirt
  • Undershirt – linen shirt

  • Breeches – wool pants to the knee
  • Stockings

Accessories

  • Retailers catering to reenactors sell the cow mouth shoes and striped stockings in vibrant colors. 
  • Belt
  • pouch/purse.

Source/Links

http://research.fibergeek.com/category/garbclothing/16th-century/landsknecht-waffenrock-1517/

Version2
date3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic 
ModelBrockman 031113-10
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Basic Entry, Female, Full Entry

1565 English Elizabethan Gown 2

deveretallier
Title1565 English Elizabethan Gown 2
Entry #GGB2021.097
Alternate Names 
Year1565
Time range1550-1600
EraElizabethan
GenderFemale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesEngland
MakerHelena of Tor
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

The Elizabethan Gown is a decorated bodice and skirt worn over a chemise, corset and farthingale

Description:

This gown was inspired by Steven Van Der Meulen of Elizabeth the First in The Hampden Portrait painted in 1563 and by a portrait of Mary Queen of Scots by an unknown artist in 1565 during her brief rule in Scotland.   The bodice is steel boned and laced on the sides. The lacing should be angling from the armpit to the middle of the back hip.  I did not incorporate that into this pattern though. 

   The skirt is an 8 paneled box pleated skirt with a button closure. To be accurate though the skirt should be cartridge pleated or knife pleated and hooked in the bodice. 

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Silk, Satin, Velvet, taffeta
  • Ornamentation:
    • Bobbin Lace
    • Jewels
    • Embroidery

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Heavy brocades, like upholstery fabrics, work very well to give a rich look. 
    • Fancy bedspreads also work well for inserts. 
  • Ornamentation:
    • Buttons work well as jewels. 
    • Lace curtains sometimes look enough like bobbin lace to use.   

Ensemble Components

  • Chemise (high necked or low necked)
  • stockings
  • corset
  • underskirt

  • outer skirt
  • bodice
  • shoes

Accessories

  • snood
  • hat
  • strings of pearls or other jewels around the neck
  • choker necklace
  • rings
  • ear rings
  • gloves
  • girdle belt
  • mirror hanging from the belt
  • decorative pouch hanging from the belt

Source/Links

Elizabeth of Valios by Alonso Sanchez Coello 1564

Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlocked by Janet Arnold

Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlocked  by Janet Arnold

1560 Elisabeth De Valois by Alonso Sanchez Coello…Grand Ladies

Version2
date3/7/2021
Source of Period Pic1560 Elisabeth De Valois by Alonso Sanchez Coello…
ModelHelena of Tor 031513-04
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Basic Entry, Female, Full Entry

1550 CE English Female Henrician Gown 2

deveretallier
Title1550 CE English Female Henrician Gown 2
Entry #GGB2021.094
Alternate Names 
Year1550
Time range1530-1575 CE
EraHenrician
GenderFemale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesEnglish
MakerJayme Jones
Difficulty3
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

Hourglass Shaped Gown with Large Sleeves & Detachable Under Sleeves

Description:

This style of dress is an evolutionary phase within the 16th century that is influenced by Spanish and German styles.  The silhouette has an hourglass shape: the bodice narrowed to a small waistline and the skirt gradually expanding into an inverted cone shape. Many of these dresses were floor length and without a train. 

To achieve the cone shaped appearance required a supportive layer called the Spanish farthingale which was worn over the chemise. A pair of bodies was worn with the farthingale and over the chemise.  The front of the overdress would have an inverted V opening and the neckline was square with highly decorative jewels or trim on the edging.  The sleeves were narrowed at the shoulder and expanded outward (normally a wide square cuff) that was turned back on itself.  This cuff could be made of fur or brocade.  A detachable, false sleeve was worn underneath and was decorated with panes and slashes through which the chemise could be seen or pulled through.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Linen, Cotton, Wool, Silk, Brocade, Jacquard, Satin, and Taffeta*
    • *Some of the materials refer to weave structure and would have been made from natural fibers.
  • Additional:
    • Whalebone, cane, or steel for farthingale. Leather for shoes.

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Some Polyester/cotton blended brocade, jacquard, satin, and taffeta.
    • linen blends and cottons for under layers
  • Ornamentation:
    • Plastic, zip ties, and metal for boning.

Ensemble Components

  • Chemise: undermost garment that is cut full and gathered into a round or square neckline; with full, gathered sleeves and ruffled cuff.
  • Spanish Farthingale: a skirt separate or sewn to petticoat with hoops that gradient in size from the waist to floor.  Constructed with whalebone, cane, or steel hoops.
  • Pair of Bodies: corset or under bodice that has stays (boning) laced together at the front, back, or both.
  • Petticoat: an underskirt that is made with elaborate fabric which can be seen in the front opening of overdress.
  • Overdress/Bodice: narrowed, stiff, and flat with an elongated V that dips at the natural waist.
  • Overdress/Skirt: combined with the bodice; very full and gathered made of similar fabric to overdress bodice.
  • Head wear: Coif, French Hood, Square Hood
  • Shoes:  Fabric or leather square-toe.

Accessories

  • Needlepoint/bobbin lace
  • Embroidery/Blackwork
  • jewels/trim
  • jeweled belt
  • brooches
  • purses suspended from belt
  • squared or feather fans.

Source/Links

Tortora, P. (2010). Survey of Historic Costume. New York: Fairchild Books.

https://adamselindisdress.blog/tag/henrician-dress/

Version2
date3/2/2021
Source of Period Pichttps://www.wga.hu/html_m/h/holbein/hans_y/1535h/02seymou.html
ModelJayme Jones 020213-06
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

1540 CE Male Tudor Sailor/Officer

deveretallier
Title1540 CE Male Tudor Sailor/Officer
Entry #GGB2021.092
Alternate Names 1540’s Tudor, doublet and breeches
Year1540
Time range1530-1580
EraTudor
GenderMale
regionWestern Europe
Countries/culturesEngland
MakerGireaude Bennet/Constance Willkicke
Difficulty4
ConfidenceImage Examples

Intro:

Clothes of an officer sailing on the Mary Rose. Coat worn over a doublet with the base layer of a linen shirt, breeches and stockings.

Description:

undershirt, breeches, socks, garters, doublet, coat, coif and hat

 Linen shirt has ruffles at collar and cuffs.

Venetian style pants are cotton.

Blue doublet is also silk.  Doublet includes short cap sleeves that can not be seen in image.

Stockings are held up with hand woven garters.

Shoes are commercial “Mary Rose” style.

Linen coif beneath hat.

Coat and hat are silk, including embroidered medallion on lapel.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Linen shirt has ruffles at collar and cuffs.
    • Venetian style pants are cotton.
    • Blue doublet is also silk.  Doublet includes short cap sleeves that can not be seen in image.
  • Additional:
    • Stockings are held up with hand woven garters.
    • Shoes are commercial “Mary Rose” style.

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Undershirt
  • breeches
  • socks
  • garters

  • doublet
  • coat
  • coif
  • hat

Accessories

Source/Links

Mary Rose Trust

Version2
date3/5/2021
Source of Period PicMan in Red, c. 1530-1550, Royal Collection, London.
ModelAlan Smyith of Darkdale 020213-04
PhotographerVincent De Vere
  

Full Entry, Male

1500 CE Male German Waffenrock

deveretallier
Title1500 CE Male German Waffenrock
Entry #GGB2021.085
Alternate Names Waffenkleid, Reitrock
Year1500
Time range1470-1550
EraLate medieval
GenderMale
regionCentral Europe
Countries/culturesGermany/Switzerland
Maker
Difficulty4
ConfidenceImage Example

Intro:

Highly ornamented “war coats” worn by military forces out of areas around Germany and Switzerland.  Closely associated with (and evolving into) the more flamboyant Landsknecht mercenaries

Description:

Bright colors, bold stripes.  Wool over garments worn by military men.  The top buttons closed and the garment is worn over at least an undershirt, and breeches.  Usually seen with long stockings and sometimes with the wide ‘cow mouth’ shoes. The sleeves and skirt portions have a lot of fabric pleated in. 

Related terms:

Waffenrock: war coat

Reitrock: riding coat, split for riding

Waffenkleid: war tunic

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

  • Fabrics:
    • Wool main garments in bright colors, or color combinations. 
    • linen undergarments
  • Accessories:
    • Knitted Stockings

Effective Substitutions

  • Fabrics:
    • Some poly/cotton brocades to simulate the rich fabrics.  Wool blends are easier to find.
    • Linen blends and cottons for undergarments.  Very hard to make these look right without investing in the right materials.
  • Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

  • Coat – wool overlayer with attached skirt
  • Undershirt – linen shirt
  • Breeches – wool pants to the knee
  • Stockings

Accessories

  • Retailers catering to reenactors sell the cow mouth shoes and striped stockings in vibrant colors. 
  • Belts
  • pouch/purse.

Source/Links

http://research.fibergeek.com/category/garbclothing/16th-century/landsknecht-waffenrock-1517/

Version2
date3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic 
ModelShawn Roark 031113-07
PhotographerVincent De Vere