late medieval – Page 7 – SCA Iowa Garb Guide

1530 Male Henrician Henchman’s Coat

January 1, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1530 Male Henrician Henchman’s Coat
Entry #	GGB2021.090
Alternate Names	surcote
Year	1530
Time range	1530-1575 CE
Era	Henrician
Gender	Male
region	Western Europe
Countries/cultures	English
Maker	Jayme Jones
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

Coat worn by the Henchmen (servant) of Henry the 8^th court. Coat with pleated skirt worn over a doublet and pants

Description:

Coat much like earlier surcotes making the individual as a servant in a household, Commonly seen with some indication of which household they belong to such as a color combination. Worn over a doublet and pants or breeches with hose and an under layer and braies next to the skin

This example was made out of very light fabric and doesn’t display the same drape of the other examples.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wools, wool blends, silks, brocaded fabrics richly decorated with woven in patterns
- Doublet made out of wool lined in linen
- Under layers made out of linen
Additional:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Upholstery fabrics, brocades and patterned cloth, cottons or blends
- The outer layer needs to be of a heavy enough fabric to achieve the right drape of the examples
- Doublet and breeches made out of lighter wool blends, linen, linen blends
- Under tunic made out of linen, linen blends or cottons
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Under shirt
doublet
over coat

pants
shoes
hat

Accessories

Belt
pouch/purse

shoes
dagger

Source/Links

The King’s Servants: Men’s Dress at the Accession of Henry VIII – Caroline Johnson

Version	2
date	3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic	Westminster tournament scroll 1511
Model	Konrad von Roth 020213-07
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Basic Entry, Female

1565 English Elizabethan Gown 5

January 1, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1565 English Elizabethan Gown 5
Entry #	GGB2021.100
Alternate Names
Year	1565
Time range	1550-1600
Era	Elizabethan
Gender	Female
region	Western Europe
Countries/cultures	England
Maker	Helena of Tor
Difficulty	5
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

The Elizabethan Gown is a decorated bodice and skirt worn over a chemise, corset and farthingale

Description:

This gown was inspired by Steven Van Der Meulen of Elizabeth the First in The Hampden Portrait painted in 1563 and by a portrait of Mary Queen of Scots by an unknown artist in 1565 during her brief rule in Scotland. The bodice is steel boned and laced on the sides. The lacing should be angling from the armpit to the middle of the back hip. I did not incorporate that into this pattern though.

The skirt is an 8 paneled box pleated skirt with a button closure. To be accurate though the skirt should be cartridge pleated or knife pleated and hooked in the bodice.

This example features a basket weave sleeve.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Silk, Satin, Velvet, taffeta
Ornamentation:
- Bobbin Lace
- Jewels
- Embroidery

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Heavy brocades, like upholstery fabrics, work very well to give a rich look.
- Fancy bedspreads also work well for inserts.
Ornamentation:
- Buttons work well as jewels.
- Lace curtains sometimes look enough like bobbin lace to use.

Ensemble Components

Chemise (high necked or low necked)
stockings
corset
underskirt

outer skirt
bodice
shoes

Accessories

snood
hat
strings of pearls or other jewels around the neck
choker necklace
rings

ear rings
gloves
girdle belt
mirror hanging from the belt
decorative pouch hanging from the belt

Source/Links

Elizabeth of Valios by Alonso Sanchez Coello 1564

Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlocked by Janet Arnold

1560 Elisabeth De Valois by Alonso Sanchez Coello…Grand Ladies

Version	3
date	3/7/2021
Source of Period Pic	1560 Elisabeth De Valois by Alonso Sanchez Coello…
Model	Helena of Tor 031513-04
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Basic Entry, Female, Full Entry

1550 CE English Female Henrician Gown 2

January 1, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1550 CE English Female Henrician Gown 2
Entry #	GGB2021.094
Alternate Names
Year	1550
Time range	1530-1575 CE
Era	Henrician
Gender	Female
region	Western Europe
Countries/cultures	English
Maker	Jayme Jones
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

Hourglass Shaped Gown with Large Sleeves & Detachable Under Sleeves

Description:

This style of dress is an evolutionary phase within the 16th century that is influenced by Spanish and German styles. The silhouette has an hourglass shape: the bodice narrowed to a small waistline and the skirt gradually expanding into an inverted cone shape. Many of these dresses were floor length and without a train.

To achieve the cone shaped appearance required a supportive layer called the Spanish farthingale which was worn over the chemise. A pair of bodies was worn with the farthingale and over the chemise. The front of the overdress would have an inverted V opening and the neckline was square with highly decorative jewels or trim on the edging. The sleeves were narrowed at the shoulder and expanded outward (normally a wide square cuff) that was turned back on itself. This cuff could be made of fur or brocade. A detachable, false sleeve was worn underneath and was decorated with panes and slashes through which the chemise could be seen or pulled through.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen, Cotton, Wool, Silk, Brocade, Jacquard, Satin, and Taffeta*
- *Some of the materials refer to weave structure and would have been made from natural fibers.
Additional:
- Whalebone, cane, or steel for farthingale. Leather for shoes.

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Some Polyester/cotton blended brocade, jacquard, satin, and taffeta.
- linen blends and cottons for under layers
Ornamentation:
- Plastic, zip ties, and metal for boning.

Ensemble Components

Chemise: undermost garment that is cut full and gathered into a round or square neckline; with full, gathered sleeves and ruffled cuff.
Spanish Farthingale: a skirt separate or sewn to petticoat with hoops that gradient in size from the waist to floor. Constructed with whalebone, cane, or steel hoops.
Pair of Bodies: corset or under bodice that has stays (boning) laced together at the front, back, or both.
Petticoat: an underskirt that is made with elaborate fabric which can be seen in the front opening of overdress.
Overdress/Bodice: narrowed, stiff, and flat with an elongated V that dips at the natural waist.
Overdress/Skirt: combined with the bodice; very full and gathered made of similar fabric to overdress bodice.
Head wear: Coif, French Hood, Square Hood
Shoes: Fabric or leather square-toe.

Accessories

Needlepoint/bobbin lace
Embroidery/Blackwork
jewels/trim
jeweled belt

brooches
purses suspended from belt
squared or feather fans.

Source/Links

Tortora, P. (2010). Survey of Historic Costume. New York: Fairchild Books.

https://adamselindisdress.blog/tag/henrician-dress/

Version	2
date	3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic	https://www.wga.hu/html_m/h/holbein/hans_y/1535h/02seymou.html
Model	Jayme Jones 020213-06
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Basic Entry, Female

1540 CE Female Italian Florentine Gown

January 1, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1540 CE Female Italian Florentine Gown
Entry #	GGB2021.091
Alternate Names	gown
Year	1540
Time range
Era	Italian Renaissance
Gender	Female
region	Southern Europe
Countries/cultures	Italy/Florence
Maker	Jennette “Neva” Jorgensen
Difficulty	5
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

No information provided

Description:

No information provided

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version	2
date	3/7/2021
Source of Period Pic
Model	Ginevera da Ravenna 091413-05
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Basic Entry, Female

1500 CE Female Italian Gown 5

January 1, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1500 CE Female Italian Gown 5
Entry #	GGB2021.079
Alternate Names
Year	1500
Time range	1500
Era	Late Medieval, Italian Renaissance
Gender	Female
region	Southern Europe
Countries/cultures	Italy
Maker	Briana Etain MacKorkhill
Difficulty	5
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version	2
date	3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic
Model	Briana Etain MacKorkhill
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

1540 CE Male Tudor Sailor/Officer

January 1, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1540 CE Male Tudor Sailor/Officer
Entry #	GGB2021.092
Alternate Names	1540’s Tudor, doublet and breeches
Year	1540
Time range	1530-1580
Era	Tudor
Gender	Male
region	Western Europe
Countries/cultures	England
Maker	Gireaude Bennet/Constance Willkicke
Difficulty	4
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

Clothes of an officer sailing on the Mary Rose. Coat worn over a doublet with the base layer of a linen shirt, breeches and stockings.

Description:

undershirt, breeches, socks, garters, doublet, coat, coif and hat

Linen shirt has ruffles at collar and cuffs.

Venetian style pants are cotton.

Blue doublet is also silk. Doublet includes short cap sleeves that can not be seen in image.

Stockings are held up with hand woven garters.

Shoes are commercial “Mary Rose” style.

Linen coif beneath hat.

Coat and hat are silk, including embroidered medallion on lapel.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen shirt has ruffles at collar and cuffs.
- Venetian style pants are cotton.
- Blue doublet is also silk. Doublet includes short cap sleeves that can not be seen in image.
Additional:
- Stockings are held up with hand woven garters.
- Shoes are commercial “Mary Rose” style.

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Undershirt
breeches
socks
garters

doublet
coat
coif
hat

Accessories

Source/Links

Mary Rose Trust

Version	2
date	3/5/2021
Source of Period Pic	Man in Red, c. 1530-1550, Royal Collection, London.
Model	Alan Smyith of Darkdale 020213-04
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Basic Entry, Female

1500 CE Female English Gown

January 1, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1500 CE Female English Gown
Entry #	GGB2021.073
Alternate Names	gown
Year	1500
Time range	1500
Era	Late Medieval
Gender	Female
region	Western Europe
Countries/cultures	England
Maker	Mary Shaw
Difficulty	3
Confidence	No information provided

Intro:

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version	2
date	3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic
Model	Mary Shaw 020213-12
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Basic Entry, Female

1565 English Elizabethan Gown 6

January 1, 2021December 7, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1565 English Elizabethan Gown 6
Entry #	GGB2021.101
Alternate Names
Year	1565
Time range	1550-1600
Era	Elizabethan
Gender	Female
region	Western Europe
Countries/cultures	England
Maker	Helena of Tor
Difficulty	4
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

The Elizabethan Gown is a decorated bodice and skirt worn over a chemise, corset and farthingale

Description:

The skirt is an 8 paneled box pleated skirt with a button closure. To be accurate though the skirt should be cartridge pleated or knife pleated and hooked in the bodice.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Silk, Satin, Velvet, taffeta
Ornamentation:
- Bobbin Lace
- Jewels
- Embroidery

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Heavy brocades, like upholstery fabrics, work very well to give a rich look.
- Fancy bedspreads also work well for inserts.
Ornamentation:
- Buttons work well as jewels.
- Lace curtains sometimes look enough like bobbin lace to use.

Ensemble Components

Chemise (high necked or low necked)
stockings
corset
underskirt

outer skirt
bodice
shoes

Accessories

snood
hat
strings of pearls or other jewels around the neck
choker necklace
rings

ear rings
gloves
girdle belt
mirror hanging from the belt
decorative pouch hanging from the belt

Source/Links

Elizabeth of Valios by Alonso Sanchez Coello 1564

Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlocked by Janet Arnold

1560 Elisabeth De Valois by Alonso Sanchez Coello…Grand Ladies

Version	2
date	3/7/2021
Source of Period Pic	1560 Elisabeth De Valois by Alonso Sanchez Coello…
Model	Helena of Tor 031513-04
Photographer	Vincent De Vere