1200 – Page 4 – SCA Iowa Garb Guide

1200 CE European Female Cote

January 14, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1200 CE European Female Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.038
Alternate Names: Gown, Frock coat, Tunic, over tunic
Year: 1200 CE
Time range: 1100-1400 CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Female
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe, French, English
Maker: Ayla Von Johanaa
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A loose tunic dress like garment with a wide neck hole pulled over the head. Used in many parts of Europe for a wide range of the high meddle ages.

Description:

This garment, or variations of it can be seen in many paintings and illustrations that cross over several regions and time frames. People from many stations in society use this functional garment, from laborers to merchants and higher. Varying slightly from its beginnings before 1100CE and fading in fashion for all but laborers late in period.

In general it is slightly more tailored tunic with the neck hole held closed by use of buttons rather than the earlier broaches. Buttons may just close the neck hole. The cut is usually full producing a baggy garment belted at the waste. Worn with an underdress and sometimes a kirtle or other dress layer and possibly with a gown outer layer.

Sometimes underrepresented in the SCA, cotes can easily produce a medieval look with an easily constructed garment.

Red dress with embroidery along cuffs, neckline and hem line worn with a mantled hood. This was a dress constructed in the tunic like style similar to examples from 1100’s to 1200’s with slight bell sleeves. Worn over a tunic style underdress.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wools, silks
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- wool blends
- linen blends
- cottons
- lighter weight upholstery fabrics that simulate period patterns
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Cote
underdress
veil

hood
coif
could be covered by a surcote

Accessories

belt
pouch

shoes

Source/Links

The Medieval Tailors Assistant, by Sarah Thursfield, has instructions on constructing such garments

Version: 2
date: 2/27/2021
Source of Period Pic: 1- the Morgan Bible, c. 1250: the wife of Manoah ,2- 1200’s, Strasbourg Cathedral and Strasbourg
Model: Ayla Von Johanaa
Photographer: Vincent de Vere

Component Entry, Male

Undershirt/Tunic (Saint Louis Shirt)

January 14, 2021January 2, 2022 deveretallier

Title	1200 CE Linen Saint Louis Shirt 1
Entry #	GGC2021.001
Alternate Names	Shirt of Saint Louis the 9^th Undershirt, tunic,
Year	1270 CE
Time range	1200-1300 CE
Era	High medieval
Gender	Male
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	France
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant example

Intro:

A tunic and an outer layer coat associated with Norse cultures. The front panels cross over each Attempt to replicate the surviving shirt labeled as belonging to Saint Louis the 9^th found in Notre-Dame de Paris,

Description:

Wool coat lined with linen decorated with a tablet woven band. The coat is shown over a

One of the many variations of the tunics. This is an attempt to replicate one of the few surviving examples of undershirts. The extant example can be found in the Notre-Dame de Paris and is claimed to belong to Saint Louis the 9^th (1226-1270CE) king of France. Although the exact lineage is not provable, the garment is a representation of n undergarment from before 1300CE.

It is often assumed that the extant example is representative of one of the many variations for methods of construction for undergarments for men. Many illustrations of people from all levels of society survive showing people wearing undergarments but this example gives us insight to the construction technique.

The original is made from linen as is the reconstruction. Undergarments and additional layers are a good way to add to an ensemble as well as serving the purpose that the original served. The undergarments that get sweaty or dirty, are more easily washed than the outer garments that are often more expensive and harder to clean.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Undergarments were generally made from linen

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Linen
- linen blends
- Linen rayon
- Linen cotton
- cotton

Ensemble Components

Undershirt

Accessories

Source/Links

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shirt_of_Saint_Louis

source image Public Domain

File:Trésors de Saint Louis dans le trésor de Notre-Dame de Paris 2018-05-12.jpg

Version	1
date	12/24/2021
Source of Period Pic	https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shirt_of_Saint_Louis
Model	Vincent de Vere
Photographer	Vincent de Vere

Maker:S,Date:2017-9-29,Ver:6,Lens:Kan03,Act:Lar02,E-ve

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Belt, Tablet woven 1 with garters

January 14, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Brocaded tablet woven belt and garters Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.034
Alternate Names	Belt, Girdle
Year	1275
Time range	1200-1300
Era	High Medieval
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Kristine nic Tallieur,
Difficulty	5
Confidence	Extant fragment

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a tablet woven belt made in two layers. The outer layer is cotton with mylar wrapped thread that emulates gold thread used in period weaving. The images woven into the belt using a brocade technique. The belt is woven in two parts with a cotton inner belt and the layers are sewn together. The buckle is a reproduction of a 1200-1300’s buckle found in the Budapest Museum of History, Nomad hall purchased from a reenactor vendor.

The garters are made in the same manner.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen, silk, gold wire, bronze/copper alloy
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silk, cotton, linen, wool, mylar thread, brass, bronze
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

buckle copy of one found in Hungary, 13-14 c. Stored in Budapest Museum of History, Nomad hall

Source/Links

Cleveland Museum of Art, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Italy,_Sicily,_end_of_11th_century_-_Two_Galloon_Fragments_Mounted_Together_-_1940.492.a_-_Cleveland_Museum_of_Art.tif

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wikipedia commons, Cleveland Museum of Art
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

1300 CE Male Linen Cote

January 9, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title: 1300 CE Male Linen Cote
Entry #: GGB2021.045
Alternate Names: Gown, Frock coat, Tunic, over tunic,
Year: 1300 CE
Time range: 1100-1400 CE
Era: High medieval
Gender: Male
region: Europe
Countries/cultures: Europe
Maker:
Difficulty: 2
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A loose tunic like garment with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Extending from below the waste to below the knee with long sleeves.

Description:

In general it is slightly more tailored tunic with the neck hole held closed by use of buttons rather than the earlier broaches. Buttons may just close the neck hole, extend part way down the chest or to the bottom of the garment. The cut is usually full producing a baggy garment belted at the waste and bloused over the belt. Some assign the length of the garment to station, with average workmen wearing it shorter to the more wealthy merchants wearing a longer garment.

Likely worn with an undershirt and in some cases a simple doublet as well as hosen or trews.

Sometimes underrepresented in the SCA, cotes can easily produce a medieval look with an easily constructed garment.

This example is a loose tunic like cote with buttons at the neck and cuffs bloused over a belt. Worn with riding boots. A heraldic patch can be seen on the chest.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- wool
- linen
- brocades
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- wool blends
- linen blends
- cottons
- lighter weight upholstery fabrics that simulate period patterns
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Cote
under tunic
possibly a doublet

pants or breis/hosen
Could be covered by a surcote

Accessories

hat
shoes

belt
pouch

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 2/25/2021
Source of Period Pic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:48-aspetti_di_vita_quotidiana_ubriachezza_Taccuino_Sanitatis_Shoes.jpg
Model: Thaddeus Ellenbock
Photographer: Vincent de Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on low turn shoe 1

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, slip-on low turn shoe 1
Entry #	GGC2022.016
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes.

Description:

Low slip on shoes that are constructed from 2 pieces of leather. They are sewn inside out and then turned right side out, thus the common name of turn shoes. Shoes like these, in one form or another, have been used throughout much of the period covered by the SCA.

This pair of shoes had a stiffening sole and tread glued to the shoe after construction. Although this is a modern consideration, it was done for additional comfort and safety for use at events. Accommodations like this are common in the SCA.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather doesn’t shape and form that way oak tan/veg tan leather will.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on punched turn shoe 1

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, slip-on punched turn shoe 1
Entry #	GGC2022.019
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes with punched out decorations

Description:

This pair of shoes is decorated by having a pattern of holes punched into the leather before assembling the shoe. Shoes decorated with punch decorations have survived dating back to Roman times. Sets of shaped punches can be purchased online for not much and the punching of the leather adds less than an hour to the total construction time.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather doesn’t shape and form that way oak tan/veg tan leather will.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons, Kulturhistorisk Museum, Oslo, Norway. Medieval Exhibition
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, punched simplified shoe 2

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, punched simplified shoe 2
Entry #	GGC2022.021
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes with punched out decorations

Description:

Low slip on shoes that are constructed from 2 pieces of leather. This simplified shoe construction doesn’t require the shoe to be turned inside out after constructing and it looks much like a turn shoe when worn. Shoes like these, in one form or another, have been used throughout the period covered by the SCA

This simplified construction technique doesn’t actually produce a turn shoe and can produce a shoe much like the turn shoe and can use chrome tanned leather.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- This modification can work with chrome tanned leather. Oak tan/veg tan leather will work better.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons, Kulturhistorisk Museum, Oslo, Norway. Medieval Exhibition
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on simplified shoe 2

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, slip-on simplified shoe 2
Entry #	GGC2022.020
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on shoes.

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather can be used with this simplified shoe. Oak tan/veg tan leather will work better.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Simple Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle

January 9, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Simple Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.031
Alternate Names	Belt
Year	1350
Time range	Antiquity to end of period
Era	Antiquity to end of period
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a modern buckle taken from a worn out belt and attached to a strip of leather to form a belt. This easily made belt works very well for people new to the SCA.

This reproduction buckle is based an extant example dated to arround 1350 CE, but is very similar to many others from different time periods. It is available through several reputable vendors. It would be an example of a very inexpensive reproduction piece.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Version	1
date	1/2/2022
Source of Period Pic	British Museum
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Belt, Tablet woven 2 with garters

January 9, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Brocaded tablet woven belt and garters Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.035
Alternate Names	Belt, Girdle
Year	1300
Time range	1300-1400
Era	High Medieval
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Kristine nic Tallieur,
Difficulty	5
Confidence	Extant fragment

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a tablet woven belt made in two layers. The outer layer is cotton with mylar wrapped thread that emulates gold thread used in period weaving. The images woven into the belt using a brocade technique. The belt is woven in two parts with a cotton inner belt and the layers are sewn together. The buckle is a reproduction of an English find from 1300-1400’s buckle from a private collection. Purchased from a reenactor vendor.

The garters are made in the same manner.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen, silk, gold wire, bronze/copper alloy
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silk, cotton, linen, wool, mylar thread, brass, bronze
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

The buckle is a reproduction of a 1300-1400’s buckle from a private collection. Purchased from a reenactor vendor.

Source/Links

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wikipedia commons, Cleveland Museum of Art
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere