Jayme Jones – SCA Iowa Garb Guide

Title	1530 Male Henrician Henchman’s Coat
Entry #	GGB2021.090
Alternate Names	surcote
Year	1530
Time range	1530-1575 CE
Era	Henrician
Gender	Male
region	Western Europe
Countries/cultures	English
Maker	Jayme Jones
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

Coat worn by the Henchmen (servant) of Henry the 8^th court. Coat with pleated skirt worn over a doublet and pants

Description:

Coat much like earlier surcotes making the individual as a servant in a household, Commonly seen with some indication of which household they belong to such as a color combination. Worn over a doublet and pants or breeches with hose and an under layer and braies next to the skin

This example was made out of very light fabric and doesn’t display the same drape of the other examples.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Wools, wool blends, silks, brocaded fabrics richly decorated with woven in patterns
- Doublet made out of wool lined in linen
- Under layers made out of linen
Additional:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Upholstery fabrics, brocades and patterned cloth, cottons or blends
- The outer layer needs to be of a heavy enough fabric to achieve the right drape of the examples
- Doublet and breeches made out of lighter wool blends, linen, linen blends
- Under tunic made out of linen, linen blends or cottons
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Under shirt
doublet
over coat

pants
shoes
hat

Accessories

Belt
pouch/purse

shoes
dagger

Source/Links

The King’s Servants: Men’s Dress at the Accession of Henry VIII – Caroline Johnson

Version	2
date	3/2/2021
Source of Period Pic	Westminster tournament scroll 1511
Model	Konrad von Roth 020213-07
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Title	1550 CE English Female Henrician Gown 2
Entry #	GGB2021.094
Alternate Names
Year	1550
Time range	1530-1575 CE
Era	Henrician
Gender	Female
region	Western Europe
Countries/cultures	English
Maker	Jayme Jones
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Image Examples

Intro:

Hourglass Shaped Gown with Large Sleeves & Detachable Under Sleeves

Description:

This style of dress is an evolutionary phase within the 16th century that is influenced by Spanish and German styles. The silhouette has an hourglass shape: the bodice narrowed to a small waistline and the skirt gradually expanding into an inverted cone shape. Many of these dresses were floor length and without a train.

To achieve the cone shaped appearance required a supportive layer called the Spanish farthingale which was worn over the chemise. A pair of bodies was worn with the farthingale and over the chemise. The front of the overdress would have an inverted V opening and the neckline was square with highly decorative jewels or trim on the edging. The sleeves were narrowed at the shoulder and expanded outward (normally a wide square cuff) that was turned back on itself. This cuff could be made of fur or brocade. A detachable, false sleeve was worn underneath and was decorated with panes and slashes through which the chemise could be seen or pulled through.