Calontir Artisans – Page 9 – SCA Iowa Garb Guide

Simple Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle

January 9, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Simple Narrow Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.031
Alternate Names	Belt
Year	1350
Time range	Antiquity to end of period
Era	Antiquity to end of period
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	1
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a modern buckle taken from a worn out belt and attached to a strip of leather to form a belt. This easily made belt works very well for people new to the SCA.

This reproduction buckle is based an extant example dated to arround 1350 CE, but is very similar to many others from different time periods. It is available through several reputable vendors. It would be an example of a very inexpensive reproduction piece.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Leather
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Version	1
date	1/2/2022
Source of Period Pic	British Museum
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Belt, Tablet woven 2 with garters

January 9, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Brocaded tablet woven belt and garters Belt with Reproduction Buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.035
Alternate Names	Belt, Girdle
Year	1300
Time range	1300-1400
Era	High Medieval
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Kristine nic Tallieur,
Difficulty	5
Confidence	Extant fragment

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a tablet woven belt made in two layers. The outer layer is cotton with mylar wrapped thread that emulates gold thread used in period weaving. The images woven into the belt using a brocade technique. The belt is woven in two parts with a cotton inner belt and the layers are sewn together. The buckle is a reproduction of an English find from 1300-1400’s buckle from a private collection. Purchased from a reenactor vendor.

The garters are made in the same manner.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen, silk, gold wire, bronze/copper alloy
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silk, cotton, linen, wool, mylar thread, brass, bronze
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

The buckle is a reproduction of a 1300-1400’s buckle from a private collection. Purchased from a reenactor vendor.

Source/Links

Cleveland Museum of Art, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Italy,_Sicily,_end_of_11th_century_-_Two_Galloon_Fragments_Mounted_Together_-_1940.492.a_-_Cleveland_Museum_of_Art.tif

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wikipedia commons, Cleveland Museum of Art
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Belt, Tablet woven 1 with plaques

January 9, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Brocaded tablet woven belt and metal plaques
Entry #	GGC2021.036
Alternate Names	Belt, Girdle
Year	1300
Time range	1200-1400
Era	High Medieval
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Kristine nic Tallieur,
Difficulty	5
Confidence	Extant fragment

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen, silk, gold wire, bronze/copper alloy
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Silk, cotton, linen, wool, mylar thread, brass, bronze
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

The buckle is a reproduction of a 1400’s buckle found in the British museum purchased from an SCA vendor.

Source/Links

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wikipedia commons, Cleveland Museum of Art
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Female, Male, Unisex

Belt with brass plaques reproduction buckle

January 9, 2021January 9, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Belt with brass plaques reproduction buckle
Entry #	GGC2021.032
Alternate Names	Belt
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1200-1400CE
Era	High Medieval
Gender	Unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Extant Example

Intro:

Various belts.

Description:

This is a narrow leather belt with preproduction buckle and tip purchased from an SCA merchant and the brass plaques are etched with various devices and batches associated with the owner

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather brass, bronze
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Leather, brass
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

The Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

buckle and tip based on a Hungarian, c. 1275 Magyar Nemzeti Museum, Budapest belt tip and

Version	1
date	1/2/2022
Source of Period Pic	British Museum
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on punched turn shoe 1

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, slip-on punched turn shoe 1
Entry #	GGC2022.019
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes with punched out decorations

Description:

Low slip on shoes that are constructed from 2 pieces of leather. They are sewn inside out and then turned right side out, thus the common name of turn shoes. Shoes like these, in one form or another, have been used throughout the period covered by the SCA

This pair of shoes is decorated by having a pattern of holes punched into the leather before assembling the shoe. Shoes decorated with punch decorations have survived dating back to Roman times. Sets of shaped punches can be purchased online for not much and the punching of the leather adds less than an hour to the total construction time.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather doesn’t shape and form that way oak tan/veg tan leather will.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons, Kulturhistorisk Museum, Oslo, Norway. Medieval Exhibition
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on low turn shoe 1

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, slip-on low turn shoe 1
Entry #	GGC2022.016
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes.

Description:

This pair of shoes had a stiffening sole and tread glued to the shoe after construction. Although this is a modern consideration, it was done for additional comfort and safety for use at events. Accommodations like this are common in the SCA.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather doesn’t shape and form that way oak tan/veg tan leather will.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, punched simplified shoe 2

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, punched simplified shoe 2
Entry #	GGC2022.021
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on turn shoes with punched out decorations

Description:

Low slip on shoes that are constructed from 2 pieces of leather. This simplified shoe construction doesn’t require the shoe to be turned inside out after constructing and it looks much like a turn shoe when worn. Shoes like these, in one form or another, have been used throughout the period covered by the SCA

This simplified construction technique doesn’t actually produce a turn shoe and can produce a shoe much like the turn shoe and can use chrome tanned leather.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- This modification can work with chrome tanned leather. Oak tan/veg tan leather will work better.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons, Kulturhistorisk Museum, Oslo, Norway. Medieval Exhibition
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Component Entry, Unisex

Shoe, slip-on simplified shoe 2

January 9, 2021January 15, 2022 deveretallier

Title	Shoe, slip-on simplified shoe 2
Entry #	GGC2022.020
Alternate Names	Shoe, turn shoe,
Year	1300 CE
Time range	1100 BCE – 1400 CE
Era	all
Gender	unisex
region	Europe
Countries/cultures	Europe
Maker	Vincent De Vere,
Difficulty	3
Confidence	Extant Examples

Intro:

Slip on shoes.

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Leather.
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- chrome tanned leather can be used with this simplified shoe. Oak tan/veg tan leather will work better.

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, By Olaf Goubitz. ISBN 9089320040 ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-9089320049

Version	1
date	1/9/2022
Source of Period Pic	Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
Model
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Basic Entry, Female

1480 CE Female Italian Gown

January 5, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title	1480 CE Female Italian Gown
Entry #	GGB2021.070
Alternate Names
Year	1480
Time range	1480-1510
Era	Late Medieval, Italian Renaissance
Gender	Female
region	Southern Europe
Countries/cultures	Italy
Maker	Elena del Mar
Difficulty	2
Confidence	Image Example

Intro:

Basic Italian Gown/ Northern Italian

Description:

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Accessories

Source/Links

Version	2
date	3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic
Model	Elena del Mar
Photographer	Vincent De Vere

Full Entry, Male

1420 CE Male Italian Farsetto

January 5, 2021December 8, 2021 deveretallier

Title 1420 CE Male Italian Farsetto
Entry # GGB2021.066
Alternate Names: Doublet, Italian cotehardie
Year : 1420
Time range: 1400 – 1450 CE
Era: Late medieval / Italian renaissance
Gender: Male
region: Southern Europe
Countries/cultures: Northern Italy
Maker: Vincent De Vere
Difficulty: 3
Confidence: Image Examples

Intro:

A middle later to the Italian male clothing, a doublet like layer worn over undershirts and below outer layers.

Description:

The middle layer of the male dress worn by most levels of society. The 1400’s see the transition from the longer doublet to the very short doublet. The major distinctions of the Italian variant can be seen on the arms, tight below the elbow and billowed at the upper arm, and the collar, at the back of the neck, where the collar dips lower down the spine.

Inspiration Images

Common Materials

Fabrics:
- Linen
- Brocades
- Silk
Ornamentation:

Effective Substitutions

Fabrics:
- Linen
- Linen Blends
- Cottons
- Brocades
- Wool Blends
- Silks
- Silk Blends
Ornamentation:

Ensemble Components

Farsetto
Undershirt

Split hose and pants

Accessories

Source/Links

Version: 2
date: 3/6/2021
Source of Period Pic: Piero della Francesca The battle between Heraclius and Chosroes, 1452-1466
Model: Giovanni Loredan
Photographer